classic motorcycle forum
The VintageBike Message Board => Autojumble => Topic started by: DavidR on November 12, 2007, 06:38:37 AM
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I am trying to restore about 90 % of a Jimmy 500 and need help to locate any of the following- webb girder fork parts, muffler (aluminium with James scroll on side) valves (or suggestion on what may adapt) Valve lifter,valve caps etc Would love to correspond with anyone out there that has restored or is restoring similar Cheers David ???
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Hi Dave,
I am in the middle of sourcing out parts for a 1930 James v-twin B2 500cc. I am hopefully getting a petrol tank pattern to make the correct tank; I was able to find the correct girder forks on ebay, and other smaller parts. I am also in need of an exhaust, but it is a 2-into one; not sure of that is the same as yours. I do have a copy of brochures for your year if you need one sent via email.
I beleive I saw a set of girder forks last week for a James on ebay...email me direct at zjsagurs(at)ibl.bm
Zach
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hi good luck with sourcing parts for your james.i have a tank for a james captain available.just post or e-mail....
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any idea of how many of these are around? how many were ohv? I found one ( sv) for sale that needs a total resto as well . it does have that cast alloy silencer
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Hi About James V Twins post 1922 I have had an interest in these machines for some years and would estimate that there anywhere between 10 & 20 machines in the UK.I think I can recall about ten and there are probably another ten waiting to be discovered. If you have a pattern for your tank there used to be a chap called Terry Hall near Shrewsbury who was a super craftsman in sheet metal.He made me a couple of tanks and they were perfect.I am not sure whether he is still working: if you are interested I will enquire.Valve caps if missing are probably best made to fit otherwise there is a danger of them blowing out and causing damage to the tank or person.Silencers,there were some reproduction ones cast some years ago but I fear they are all gone now.If you can borrow a pattern you could get some cast chances of finding one for sale are slim.Valves try looking at car valves of similar size morris minor valves come to mind ;the stem can be ground down to length and a slot made to take a cotter.My v twin works well on a round cotter.Dinner calls must go ride safely Harry
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Hi About James V Twins post 1922 I have had an interest in these machines for some years and would estimate that there anywhere between 10 & 20 machines in the UK.I think I can recall about ten and there are probably another ten waiting to be discovered. If you have a pattern for your tank there used to be a chap called Terry Hall near Shrewsbury who was a super craftsman in sheet metal.He made me a couple of tanks and they were perfect.I am not sure whether he is still working: if you are interested I will enquire.Valve caps if missing are probably best made to fit otherwise there is a danger of them blowing out and causing damage to the tank or person.Silencers,there were some reproduction ones cast some years ago but I fear they are all gone now.If you can borrow a pattern you could get some cast chances of finding one for sale are slim.Valves try looking at car valves of similar size morris minor valves come to mind ;the stem can be ground down to length and a slot made to take a cotter.My v twin works well on a round cotter.Dinner calls must go ride safely Harry
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Hi David further to my message of last night my wife has seen a message on the James site mentioning a James flat tank for sale at yeomans,contact is Steve Jones on 0121-4538886 the angle of dangle at the rear is a good guide as to the age smaller angle later tank.The site is http//groups.yahoo.com/group/jamesmotorcycles worth a look,good hunting Harry.
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Many thanks people for all your suggestions- I have bought a silencer and spare engine from Hungary- aint the web wonderful!- a bit rough but worth getting. Made the webb girder fork bits and had some valve caps machined. So things are happening!
however I would like to locate a carburetor- the advertising material for the 1928 says Binks Amac or Villiers. Would anyone know what the model numbers for those carbs would be so that I can look for them on ebay etc
Thanks for the help
David
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Eight years must be a record for a follow-up post though!
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Binks - pretty rare in this period
AMAC - pretty common in this period
Villiers - easy to find, but you'll have trouble convincing others that it's correct! In the early 1920s James used the Mills carburettor, which was adopted (bought out?) by Villiers, so by 1928 a "mills" carby hadn't changed much, other than being re-branded Villiers. I think it was still bronze in 1928??
I assume your bike is a 500c side-valve twin, so the required carby is only small (250cc-size). Does it bolt on to a stub or a flange?
Binks would be a model J (2-lever) or JA (single lever) (7/8") or a model K or KA (1").
AMAC would be a model 30M (7/8") or a model 25M (1"). In 1928, all AMACs have the remote air slide on the side of the mixing chamber, so many people will think they are "TT" carbies. Not a problem, except that the price goes up!
Not sure about Villiers, but anything with a brass body and a slide diameter of 7/8" or so would probably work OK.
Cheers
Leon
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Hi David,
Here's a mixing chamber for a 30MDY AMAC, which is a standard 1928 AMAC with a 7/8" slide.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252445600075
You need to check to see if the clip fitting is the correct size for your inlet manifold. If you get the mixing chamber, you should be able to find a suitable float chamber.
I'm pretty sure 7/8 would be big enough for a 500 sv twin, but check if you can.
Cheers
Leon
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Hi All,
The seller on Ebay has several other carbs on at the moment including a nice looking B&B
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brown-and-Barlow-Carburettor-Ref-20/252445572692?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35923%26meid%3D26c19bff9de94dc780499bb401149cbd%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D252445600075
Theres also a more complete 30 MDX on
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amac-30-MDX-1928-1-Carburettor-used-Vintage-Motorcycle/252435301174?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35923%26meid%3Df1103df17feb45df8bc7c4410922a91d%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D252445577325
Good luck
John
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Hi John,
The nice B&B is a bit too early for 1928. From 1924-1928 the standard B&B used a pilot jet controlled by two screws, one on either side of the mixing chamber body.
Another interesting carb is this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361623643131 which is labelled "Binks AMAL" and so likely 1929-ish. I'm not sure whether the throttle size would be large enough for the James...
It looks much like a Mills/Villiers, and the listing claims AMAL ceased making this design for patent infringement reasons. Maybe so.
Cheers
Leon
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By the way, 30MDX and 30MDY Amacs are identical except that the MDX has a top-feed float, while the MDY has bottom feed.
X = top feed
Y = bottom feed.
Leon
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Hi Leon,
I had seen the Binks Amal, but thought being AMAL it was later?? the choke size also looked very small
Anyway we still dont know the inlet manifold stub size ::)
Regards
John
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I must admit I'd never seen - or perhaps never noticed - a concentric Binks-AMAL until the last week! No idea what they were fitted to, so it could be a lawnmower or similar. The first year for AMAL (Amalgamated from Binks, AMAC and B&B) was 1929, but for a year or two there was some mixed branding, the most common of which was Binks-branded carbies (not the lawnmower type!) mounted on Nortons in 1929, and maybe 1930. Rare these days. The AMAC brand was used on the continent many years after it disappeared in the UK.
I've been amusing myself over the last month or so sorting out the year-by-year features of AMAC and B&B and trying to sort out bits in my carby junk box. Interesting activity once you have some knowledge.
Leon
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John we were discussing B&Bs and I mentioned the very nice one you pointed to on ebay was too early for 1928. However there is one for sale on ebay at the moment http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252444276646 that would suit a sporting bike from 1924-1928 (although it might be a bit big for the James). The pilot jet arrangement on these B&Bs is quite interesting, and one of the photos on the listing (below) shows it very nicely. There are two adjusters for the pilot jet, one on either side of the mixing chamber. One controls the air, the other controls the fuel. Presumably you could get a very nice idle!
B&B carburettors were very sophisticated - they were the first of the major British makers to use a tapered needle attached to the throttle valve (1913-14), and in 1915 they brought in an adjustable pilot jet for easy starting and reliable low-speed running.
Cheers
Leon
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Hi Leon,
Thanks for the link and information,
I do not have any experience of B&B carbs
Most of my limited experience is with AMAC's from 24 to 28
Regards
John
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Hi John,
I'm just bubbling over with carby info at the moment, so happy to share it. The AMAC was also a fine carb through the 1920s, and while I suspect they had the edge for outright performance they didn't bring out a carb with a pilot jet until the PJ series in 1926-27. I guess they didn't care too much about idling in those days!
Here's a c1927 AMAC PJY. As the caption says there were three sizes, as well as top and bottom feed variants (PJX and PJY). AMAC were good at stamping identification marks, so if you find an original AMAC the code (eg PJY15) will identify it immediately.
Cheers
Leon
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Many thanks to you all- you are certainly a mine of knowledge- the inlet manifold is 1" so I have plenty of choices
Second question now that I have the carb sorted....
Does anyone know the specifications of the valve springs for the 500 V twin James (1928) I can get them made but need to supply the factory with all the particulars- any ideas ?
Cheers
David
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Hi David,
Time to find a fellow 500 James owner I think, or at least the VMCC James Marque Expert. Valve springs are a pain unless you have a sample to go by.
Even though very sporty bikes, like OHV Nortons or 4-valve Rudges, were starting to get very strong valve springs by 1928, I suspect the James s.v. would use soft-ish springs. I reckon that a "two thumb lift" would be about right. Be suspicious if you end up with valves that can't be lifted from their seats with your thumbs - it won't help performance but it will ruin your cams and followers.
Cheers
Leon