classic motorcycle forum
Motorcycle Discussions => British Bikes => Topic started by: wiebe on November 09, 2008, 05:59:33 PM
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I have Triumph Daytona? T110T 1973 No. DH 31115, with only one carbu. can I modify my bike to a duo carbu. as it should have been?
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Should be easy enough, it depends on what model you actually have. The T100T was discontinued in 1969 - does it have the actual model type stamped in the crank cases above the engine number?
You may just need to change the inlet manifold, or it may have had a different cylinder head fitted at some point. HN
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Thanks a lot Henry, I checked and the code stamped right above the serial no. DH3115? is "T100R". Is there a mono carburettor that will increase the power?
Kind regards
WZ
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You probably won't find any appreciable gain in power by fitting a larger carburettor on its own. You might get better service and economy from later carbs (amal mkIIs/del lortos/mikunis) but in order to get more power the cylinder head would have to be modified to suit. This means opening and polishing the inlet ports; maybe adding an extended downdraught manifold; increasing valve sizes; and, to get optimum performance, changing the cam profiles and valve timing.
If you can get a twin-carb Tiger 100 head it should bolt straight on and you'll get a bit more go from it, but in my opinion the extra few mph was never worth the extra fuel consumption (one reason why I like the Trophys over Bonnies)
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Thanks for your reply, an other question, the top speed on my Triumph Daytona is appr. 110 km/h, is this normal, I read somewhere that the speed could go up to 160?
wz
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Hi,
The T100 bit was to suggest that the top speed is 100 mph/160 kph. That was obviously new and was a maximum but I would have thought that 110 kph was a little slow. Tony B
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110km/h (66MPH) is pretty slow for a completely stock bike in good (unworn) condition but enduro style high bars, big rear sprockets etc. can all reduce your top speed quite drastically. That asides, if the engine needs work or has been badly rebuilt then this is going to affect its performance too.
Your bike is dated April 1973, and should have a twin carb head, but like Blue says, the difference is pretty minimal.
Other than the top speed how does the bike go? Does it smoke rumble or rattle (alot)? Do the brakes bind or the clutch slip?
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Thanks Henri, cylinders and pistons are new, there is no blue smoke, not much rattle either. Sprockets are standard, and wheels turn freely, I also cleaned the carb. with ultra-sound.
Question, someone told me that my bike is not a Daytona, but a Tiger, is that the case?
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The short answer is: sort of.
Yes, the crankcase number T100R is a Daytona number so yes, you have a Daytona. But it can also be called a Tiger because:
'Tiger' is a moniker that's been affiliated with Triumph since Edward Turner became the chief designer in the 1930s. He revamped the single-cylinder range and dubbed them 'Tigers' followed by a number to suggest a top speed; e.g. 'Tiger 90' in the case of the 500cc to imply a 90mph capability. The 'Tiger 100' (read: tiger-hundred) was the sports version of the 500cc Speed-Twin.
The name stuck with the 500 sports but wasn't really applied to the 650cc models which were simply the 6TA Thunderbird, T110, TR6 Trophy and T120 Bonneville.
'Daytona' Is a name Triumph gave to the twin-carb sports variant of the T100 released in 1967 (I think?) to capitalise on the success of their racing bikes on the Daytona Beach circuit, and this name stuck with twin-carb 500cc triumphs until the last (1973).
So you have a 'Tiger-hundred Daytona'
But hey, 'wots in a name,' eh?
You should be getting better than 110 kph from the machine though, even with a single carburettor. Has the ignition been timed correctly?
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Thanks, Blue for your clair answer. I installed a Boyer electronic ignation, but I don't know if the timing is correct, it does not give much kick back, when starting the engine. Is this normal? I have another question; the mufler attachment to the frame cracks all the time, I had it welded several times, shouldend there be flexible screws?
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but I don't know if the timing is correct,
Didn't you check it with a strobe?
As there's no other way to set the ignition timing (set it to fully advanced @5,000 RPM) accurately otherwise.
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The short answer is: sort of.
Yes, the crankcase number T100R is a Daytona number so yes, you have a Daytona. But it can also be called a Tiger because:
'Tiger' is a moniker that's been affiliated with Triumph since Edward Turner became the chief designer in the 1930s. He revamped the single-cylinder range and dubbed them 'Tigers' followed by a number to suggest a top speed; e.g. 'Tiger 90' in the case of the 500cc to imply a 90mph capability. The 'Tiger 100' (read: tiger-hundred) was the sports version of the 500cc Speed-Twin.
The name stuck with the 500 sports but wasn't really applied to the 650cc models which were simply the 6TA Thunderbird, T110, TR6 Trophy and T120 Bonneville.
'Daytona' Is a name Triumph gave to the twin-carb sports variant of the T100 released in 1967 (I think?) to capitalise on the success of their racing bikes on the Daytona Beach circuit, and this name stuck with twin-carb 500cc triumphs until the last (1973).
So you have a 'Tiger-hundred Daytona'
The 1973 factory parts book also refers to the T100R as a "DAYTONA (T100R)" on the cover, but as a "TIGER 100 (T100R)" on the Tech data. page.
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No, I don't have a strobe, but I will get me one. Could you give me some advice regarding the cracked mufflers?
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Could you give me some advice regarding the cracked mufflers?
The parts book shows a low-level twin exhaust system with a balance pipe between the down pipes, but there's no sign of any flexible mountings at all.
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If your exhaust mounts keep cracking it could be a slightly suspect aftermarket exhaust fitted (one that isn't quite the right shape which puts stress on the mountings, or just badly made - just an idea). With regards your top speed, I have heard of people using the wrong keyway for their cams, resulting in a drastic performance loss - again, just an idea.
Hope you get it sorted. ;)
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Wiebe,
It could be that because your bike is not running right it may be vibrating thus causing the bracket to snap. Once you have checked the timing and got it running right you may find it runs a lot smoother and won't cause the problem. Tony B.
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Thanks, all of you, I have another question; I got myself a strobe, I checked in the manual pg. GD4, ignition timing T100S two indication of timing Static timing: 14° and fully advanced 38° BTCD (before top dead centre)? But also advange range: contact breaker 12° and crankshaft 24°. I think I should use 14° and 38°? can some please reply. Also, what is the best petrol to be used high or standard octane?
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I checked in the manual pg. GD4, ignition timing T100S two indication of timing Static timing:
You must disregard the timing information given in the workshop manual
As that information is for setting the points ignition, and the mechanical AA unit is no longer fitted, so the quoted workshop manual AA unit advance figures are no longer relevant.
The ONLY way to check the Boyer ignition accurately is to strobe check it at full advance with the engine running.
So use the strobe to check that the rotor timing mark moves towards the case pointer 38° BTDC mark as engine speed is increased, and adjust the Boyer back plate so that the rotor mark aligns with the case pointer at 5,000 RPM as the electronic advance is slower than the mechanical AA unit and it will not reach full advance until about 5,000 RPM.
Also, what is the best petrol to be used high or standard octane?
The standard Daytona compression ratio was 9:1, so reasonably high octane would be best.
According to the parts '73 list, both 7.5:1 and 7:1 low compression pistons were an option for the Daytona, so if yours has low-comp pistons then lower octane fuel should be fine.
If your strobe is a 12V type, normally it isn't recommended to connect it to the bike's own battery to do the test, as that can sometimes cause problems, try to use a different 12V power source if possible.
If your strobe is the type with an advance selector wheel or knob, then set it to zero.
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Thanks for your answer, my Triumph does not have a case pointer 38°, I need tool D2014. Can I make one myself?
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my Triumph does not have a case pointer 38°, I need tool D2014. Can I make one myself?
I would have expected a '73 model to have the built-in pointer?
But you could make your own D2104 tool, or just put a paint mark on the case next to the rotor mark once you have carefully set the crank to the 38° BTDC slot position using your workshop manual instructions at section B31(B).
If you don't have the TDC tool, then you could use something like a small screwdriver to feel when the 38° BTDC slot is positioned exactly central below the timing hole.
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Thanks, you were right my T100R has a built in "pointer", but it was not as was shown in the handbook, so I did the work with the strobe, result, the original setting was too advanced. I made the needed modification, and the engine runs fine. I haven't tested full speed yet, the weather is not nice this weekend.