classic motorcycle forum
Motorcycle Discussions => British Bikes => Topic started by: smartfella on December 01, 2014, 12:48:27 PM
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Hoping someone can help me with the Make & model of this engine.
I was told it could be a JAP 350cc. The number stamped on the front of the case is, 3423 16H
Any help would be great.
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Don't think its JAP, doesn't have any of the typical JAP features.
16H looks to be a different stamping ??
There is nothing (numbers) on the drive side crankcase. ?
Looks to be a Sturmey Archer - made by Raleigh's of Nottingham - and supplied to a large number of makers,
including some in Europe.
Only match can find is a part timing cover view
http://cybermotorcycle.com/gallery/sturmey-archer/images/Sturmey-Archer-1936c-600cc-SV-Ransomes-2.jpg
(And I apologise for all that dirt !)
Don't know why your timing cover doesn't have the SA logo.
Can we also see a Sturmey Archer gearbox behind it ?
They usually came paired, although not always.
Sturmey made quite a range of engines, yours looks to be late 1920s or early 1930s.
They stopped making motorcycle stuff in 1932 (was it ?)
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Thanks R
The only other numbers are shown in the uploaded photo.
The Gear/clutch box is an Alison and did not come with the engine.
I hope to fit the engine into a 1929 New Henley frame.
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That is part of the oil pump ?
That 29 could give a clue as to the year....
Doesn't the cylinder have a casting number on it, on the drive side.
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Sorry I meant Albion gear/clutch box.
Yes there is.
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This looks to be your engine.
http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/images/photos/pic-743.jpg
Listed as 1931
Your timing cover with integral magneto platform may be something special though ?
Sturmey Archer have quite a website of their history there.
http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/index.php?page=history-detail&id=743
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I just measured up and that seems to be the 1.
Thanks Mr R.
Let the restoration begin. ;D
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I think this site needs a new section for old fuddy duddys called "two stroke grey porridge site for cheapskates" !
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I think this site needs a new section for old fuddy duddys called "two stroke grey porridge site for cheapskates" !
If it had such a section, smartfella's motor wouldn't be there. One of the nice things about old bikes is that there's always something new to learn, like recognising the difference between a two stroke and a side-valve four stroke. Those valves on the side are a give-away!
I own a factory Rudge and a racing OHV Douglas, but I've also had terrific fun with 211cc of two-stroke single-speed Radco power!
Cheers
Leon
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Getting any old bike back on the road is an achievement.
Especially now that anything that was expensive is now really expensive !
And folks want to hang onto bits, so getting it all 'correct' is getting tough.
Seems an ideal time to reword something mentioned before.
Raleigh brochures list all their models by number,
including several versions of a Model 16, a 350cc sv.
So that 16H stamping would seem to have some relevance.
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I have only been restoring bikes for 6 years and this is my 4th project. My Dad an ex Road racer has been doing it for 40 years.
He lives in Ulster and me in Cambridge which is why I ask around.
Any help I can get is great as I'm always learning.
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Just wondering if any of you chaps would know the part number of the drive sprocket for this engine, or another sprocket that would fit.
Thanks.
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Having a part number only helps if there are still shops that stock parts for it.
Do you have the old sprocket for it ?
A good engineering shop could grind the old teeth off it, and weld a band of new teeth onto it.
Or even make a new one up from scratch.
Its tapered, with a keyway ?
Sturmey engines are faintly related to (some) Nortons,
but that may not apply to all engine sizes for all years.
If you have a photo of this sprocket, someone may be able to suggest something possibly suitable.
Otherwise, its finding/measuring what the taper size is, and determining the offset of the teeth to line up with the clutch.
Hoperhishelps. !!
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Otherwise, its finding/measuring what the taper size is, and determining the offset of the teeth to line up with the clutch.
Doing this accurately requires the engine and gearbox and clutch being solidly and permantly bolted into the frame,
so that the chain line between engine and clutch can be reliably determined.
i.e. so the teeth on the engine sprocket are in the right place to line up with the teeth on the clutch.
(And also with the teeth on the sprocket on the back wheel).
Guessing at this in the early stages of a bike build can mean it may need to be done again to get it right,
not a very good outcome....
hth2.
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Thanks R.
I don't have a sprocket. I was told by my Dad that some Nortons fit. I suppose it's going to be
trial & error to get one that fits.
Thanks for the info tho. No doubt I will be back again for more help.
:D
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Sprocket blanks of the size you want are supplied complete with boss.
It is a routine job for any chain and transmission firm to bore and face the sprocket to suit the job at hand.
All you have to do is as R says. When the engine and gearbox with clutch are solidly bolted together in the frame take the bike to them and they will manufacture to suit.
It is a standard job made entertaining by being in a vintage bike. That will get them interested.
Cheers,
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Thanks 33ds.
Good info.
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It could be a standard taper,why dont you measure it.In my experience engines with short drive shafts are often industrial.JAP for instance made 100 times more industrial engines than actual bike engines.To mount one with a bike gearbox,you often need to offset it somewhat to that side,to line up the chain.Dont go for an excessive overhang,as likely the shaft will fracture at the keyway.Any one with a lathe will be able to cut an accurate taper in a sprocket blank,and as has been suggested the sprocket can be rebanded.The key will probably be a modified Woodruffe key[cut short and reduced in height,to avoid weakening the engine mainshaft.]Nortons and JAPs both use tapered keyed sprockets,but different sized shafts.Regards John.
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Can anyone clarify what I think this pipe input is.
I think its a breather pipe but could it be an oil feed pipe.
Thanks.