classic motorcycle forum
Motorcycle Discussions => British Bikes => Topic started by: dynamic on August 11, 2018, 10:46:57 AM
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I have a T 100 68 and notice the ammeter needle ( Lucas type) stays in the centre of the dial just fluctuating left to right very slightly even at cruising speed 50/60 mph,
with the engine running and multimeter on the battery I get a constant reading of 13 + volts am I to assume the ammeter has had its time looks like the original from 68 or can it be overhauled
PS after a ride the battery always shows in the region of 12.7 +
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it's like that because the battery is fully charged.
time to worry is when its on full discharge all the time.
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... or full charge........
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thanks for the posts guys I will ride on of peaceful mind/uneducated bliss
PS. my kickstart spring has 2 inch of "slack" is it difficult to change the return spring ?
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That's the trouble with ammeters, oil pressure gauges etc...more sh*t to worry about. As for the k/s spring do you mean 2" before the ratchet engages?
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Hi Rex no not 2 inches before ratchet engages the ratchet turns the motor over its just that after starting I can pull the kickstart up into its normal position and the return spring seems slack and whilst on the move the kickstart falls back 2 inches I am guessing the return spring has worn over the last few ( 50 ) years I hope this may make sense to you, reading the manual it looks like I can get access to the return spring by removing the G/box outer case where the clutch cable hooks up ?
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Yep, that's where the spring is. Does it stay "pulled up" or does it go back down again?
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seems like you need a new spring.
either that or to get into the spirit of the 1960s/70s, ::) use a bungee cord, or aerolastic as I still refer to them as. ???
easy enough job, lay the bike on its side and saves draining the oil.
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Hi Rex & Mini me thanks for your inputs the kickstart does not stay in its most upright position just falls back the 2 inches as above
I will remove the g/box case and see what parts I need to order
PS. watch this space many more "so obvious" questions to follow ………………………...
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you'll need to learn how to wind the new spring up and hold it in position as you replace the cover.
new springs often have sharp edges, have Elastoplast handy ::)
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An absolute bas**rd of a job to get the spring on. Could have been me I suppose, but got there in the end. I found a bit of cussing helped.
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Two things here....make sure the spring plate fits on the flats of the shaft easily and dress it with a file if it doesn't, and drill two holes diametrically opposite each other in the plate and use a pair of long/snipe nosed pliers in these holes to turn the plate and tension the spring.
As said, the sharp ends of the spring will draw blood otherwise.
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bungee it is then thanks for the input guys
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It's a ten minute job...there'll be lots of those on an old bike, so why not do it properly and be done with it?
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Now you'll need one of these (https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-o8AAOxyHBBSOdbf/s-l500.jpg)
and you'll be right back in the 60s