classic motorcycle forum
Motorcycle Discussions => European and Other Bikes => Topic started by: Terrotmt1 on December 17, 2019, 03:57:39 PM
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Thought it was time to move on from the Terrot saga so starting another less fraught, easier, less stressful less urgent rebuild of another French folly, my 1952 Peugeot BIMA 'moped'.
Got my fire-proof gear on for comments from Mini, but I hope some will follow this with interest and guidance.
Bought this about 4 years ago and registered it in the UK then bought the Terrot to do first, so this has come out of the shed at the bottom of the garden for an inspection of what it actually might mean.
My current intent is to do a re-commission, an oily rag rebuild in the loosest of terms, but to get it working reliably and safely but keeping all the originality I can.
Never tried to do this before, and the urge to strip, restore, painful rebuild to original 'new' status is hard to keep in mind.
It owes me £600 already. It is worth about the same, tops, so as ever a loss making machine but should be interesting as a mini garage-in-the-winter project.
It was made when I was born, and has a few negatives, much like it's fragile owner...
Good bits:
Engine is nice and free, compression, and the de-compression valve is all free. I hope to leave the engine intact. (49cc 2 stoke)
Carb is in great condition, just full of dried French fuel and missing it's filter cover, £40 off ebay.Fr
It is the early chain drive so my fingers are crossed (notorious for snapping) but a good clean and maybe a new one.
Magneto looks great, coil is old French and not original (I think), need to check for a spark.
All metalwork is clean, rust free but some cosmetic surface rust all over, but was light cream and royal blue. Decals all distressed by time alone.
Saddle needs some delicate re-stitching, might send this to a DDK'r to rescue.
Over time the bike has been worked on and some original fasteners are lost. Can you buy 'distressed' steel fasteners? (ie M4 and M5)
Bad bits?
Not many.
The parts that are perished are the tyres, tubes, brake shoes, control cables, wrong fuel tank cap and a cracked rear reflector.
Budget is £500.
The way it all worked is a bit 'demanding' in that you can/have to pedal the bike like and push bike. The engine is engaged with the exhaust valve open (controlled by twist grip) by pulling an over-centre cam that presses a gritted roller to the tread of the rear tyre.
Still pedalling hard, you close the de-compression valve and open the throttle and the engine then runs and takes over.
Speed is controlled by twist grip and the engine will tick over so slowly you only need to kill it at very near zero mph.
A challenge then.. :lol:
Here we are: Engine covers off
(https://i.postimg.cc/rm0g0wJD/DSC0050.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kjk03rPS/DSC0054.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Some years ago I did a ground up restoration on an NSU Quickly. I liked the rather art deco styling (much nicer in my eyes than your Peugeot) but when complete it was so gutless I never rode it. Eventually sold it through Bonhams and felt fortunate I'd only lost £100 on it.
Before:
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/NSU/images/DSCF1490.jpg)
After:
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/NSU/images/right.jpg)
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/NSU/images/left.jpg)
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That looks great, nice job done!
The weak values are a problem, hence the oily rag route to kill the costs as much as possible.
Hope my £500 will suffice.
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:o :o :o :oHave you tried a stronger medication? or some kind of physical restraint? If you are truly getting some perverse pleasure, try flagellation instead.
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Ha!
Thought you would have a point of view!
I get bored really easily, this will keep me occupied for a few weeks..
:)
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If you were to concentrate on the bikes instead of spending so much time on line you might get somewhere.
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Tasks before Xmas is to get all the prep done on the 49cc Wonder.
The carb came off easy, I'm a bit suspicious of the carb, looks too 'new' compared to the rest of the bike.
However, 24 hour soak of the parts in paraffin after a strip got the crud off well and with all the parts off/out I gave the drillings a good poking through.
Main jet was blocked solid and also the main 'feed' port.
All freed of the blockage thanks to my set of BOC gas welding nozzle cleaners bought in '72 when I built my first hot rod!
The carb does not have a jet needle and is very small, just 10mm choke diameter, but all cleaned nicely.
Have to make 3 paper gaskets and it can go back together.
The carb has no name on it but I think it is a Gurtner.
Next came the coil. It was loosed in place by one odd screw, somebody has been at this bike recently, I think the Brit I bought it from who used to buy/import French 'barn-finds'.
It is the original, made by MOREL who I think made the magnetos for these mopeds too. The mag has no name on it.
Have to find out which wire goes where yet:
I have 2 wires from the magneto, orange and white, both with eyelets for the coil terminals, The MOREL coil has 2 posts, N and R.
Which wire goes to which terminal please?
Got a plug and have a silencer, original with a good array of small corrosion holes in it at one end so some brazing coming up.
With some fresh petrol I should be ready to try to start it with a good 240v pistol drill on the flywheel nut.
Good fun!
(https://i.postimg.cc/d0KNVFcm/DSC0058.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wTLG8MST/DSC0059.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fL7VQxjf/DSC0060.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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I used to buy "Custom Car" with my paper round money back in 1972. Rods were rare then, did you ever have one featured?
I later went on to buy a Norman Nippy fitted with a Villiers 3K engine. Reliable, but put me off "little" bikes for life. :D
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Yes, the car was a Y Type Ford, 1937, chopped with independent suspension etc.
Great little car, had a great time in the 70's!
Found the old albums:
(https://i.postimg.cc/28LhztkG/P1080129.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Nice job! Is it still around?
Look at that sh*tty chop though.
ps Did you get to meet the girls? ;)
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Chop was all diy on the driveway of my mothers house in Birmingham, such good days!
Car is in the USA, exported about 15 years ago. I had put a Capri V6 in it before I sold it to a deaf and dumb lad , Clive Prue.
Bought a Model A Ford after, steel, chopped it and used a Paul Haige chassis, Super Bell front, Jaguar S type rear etc. The car went to Germany.
Sorry for the thread drift, good Rosy Glasses Days.
Sold it in the late 80's and bought the yellow Porsche.
Turning through those dusty albums today bought back some memories!
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Looking at the backside of the girl on the right was a trip down memory lane........
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Chop was all diy on the driveway of my mothers house in Birmingham, such good days!
I meant the sh*tty chop on two wheels! Is the car still on the DVLC register? Always seems like a lot of customs get pulled apart for a "Quick refresh" and then stay that way for ever.
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The bike and my Y type were on the CC stand that year, all expenses paid for at Ally Pally.
Driving down to London was made, driving such a car in the city madder.
The photo shoot was in a small studio also in London.
We met the girls in the studio, all dressed, and we were removed to a seedy cafe round the corner for the journo to write the story.
There was clear evidence of the girl sat on the wing!
A few weeks later it was in Hot Car mag, pics shot locally and then in a French magazine.
The car is no longer on the dvla.
I still have the buff log book!
I ran the car for 10 years and it has so many stories for me, most very very good.
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Back to my immediate problem, borne from my ignorance: ::)
Anyone know which terminal the magneto wires go to on the coil please?
OR, will I damage anything if I guess wrongly?
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It looks like there are only 2 wires coming out of the mag, you should be able to see which one is from the points through the apertures in the flywheel. Having worked on cars you should then know which coil terminal the points connect to.
If you can't see it use a meter to check which wire goes to the points (easy unless you have done something strange with the condenser ).
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Its only been going 3 days and its on page two already............................................................................................ :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
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Don't worry mini, we will aim for a new record just to wind you up :)
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Thanks DM.
Found a simple diagram at last and I hope Ican get my DVM probes in through the 2 slots.
I don't think the flywheel as been off ever, so prefer not to remove it.
Mini will always be grumpy! ;)
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Why do you want to get the probes in through the slots ?
Measure continuity on the each wire to the mag backplate. one wire will go to the points and condenser so if the points are open there will be a high ohms reading on the meter (turning the mag over assuming the points are clean and making good contact should see the meter alternate from high to low ohms readings), the other wire will go to the generating coil and give a low ohms reading.
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Three steps forward, but no prize today.
Have a spark, not exactly a BIG spark, nothing like the Terrot's, but a stream of sparks when you spin the engine over with the pistol drill (bliss).
Have fuel in the carb, and the plug is only 'just' wet, but fuel on the plug.
Have nice compression...
But, it won't even whisper a fire at all.
Can't help but feel the spark timing is wrong or the spark is too weak in the chamber to fire. Have dosed the attempts with Easy-Start at times but nothing.
There are timing marks on the engine (one) and one on the edge of the flywheel. If you align these marks the access to the points is perfect, so I guess this is where you set the points gap (0.4mm ) as you can set them easy.
However...there is nothing then to set the flywheel to the crank to allow the spark to go at about 3mm BTDC.
Need a bit of help please if anyone can guide me.
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Well you could read the instructions for checking the timing, which is set by altering the points gap.
It is done this way to ensure that the points open with the flywheel magnets in the correct position relative to the coil stator to get the best possible spark.
http://comet-restorations.uk/gallery/bima_instructions_1956.pdf
I would have expected the engine to fire even if the timing is slightly out so would suspect you have no spark under compression.
I personaly would throw that can of easy start in the bin, before it damaged an engine.
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Thank you for the link. I had just found the French version though nowhere as detailed under Terrot Lutin, same bike, different name.
That has saved my wife endless hours of fun translating the French... :)
The EasyStart is the last resort, it did very little on the MT1 but thought it might give some ignition.
The spark on the plug is very weak though consistent with flywheel rotation.
Still not sure if I have the magneto leads on the right coil terminals, somebody before me has re-wired the magneto, orange and white instead of Red and Black.
I suspect the spark will improve if I have the mag re-magnetised?
One good point is on this design, once you loosen the 14mm A/F magneto flywheel nut the nut is captive and acts to pull the flywheel off as you undo it. No puller required.
Thank you again for your help.
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If you have wires to the coil wired backwards the spark polarity will be wrong but it should still run.
The Magneto Guys show you how to determine spark polarity with a 2 electrode spark gap and a pencil.
https://www.themagnetoguys.co.uk/spark-polarity
Years ago I made a mains powered test box to check flywheel magneto backplates off of the engine.( It will test bare armatures from normal magneto's too).
Basically I wire the ignition as per a car ignition circuit, supply DC power to the coil from the test box and use a NE555 timer pulsing a relay across the open magneto backplate points.
An adjustable spark gap on the test box makes sure I don't run the mag with too big a spark gap and damage anything.
You can get a rough measurement of the HT voltage from the size of the spark gap as it takes 3kV to jump a 1mm gap, again have to make sure the spark gap is not wide enough to cause damage to the coil.
Can leave it sparking on the bench for half an hour to see if the spark deteriorates when the mag coil heats up.
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The spark is about 25% of the. Brightness of the Terrot's current spark intensity.
The Terrot was weak until I had themagnets re magnetised, Villiers Services demonstrated how weak it was before the conditioning...
I gues if the wires are the wrong way round it won't hurt just to get a pop from the engine.
I'll have a look at the link!
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I have a Villiers Mk 12 engine on a pump,the spark is so weak,didnt think there was any ......anyway,motor starts and runs no problem,and the pump works 100%,I even pumped hundreds of gallons of oily water out of the fueltank bund at work....the little motor was enveloped in a cloud of smoke ,but kept running till the petrol tank ran dry.
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Reassuring John!
The info I now have off DM will allow me to re-set the engine and I hope it will fire-up.
It would be a good Xmas present... :)
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Tried several things, but all to no avail.
Checked the timing as per the English Instructions, seems I had it right.
Points 'just' opening when the timing marks are aligned which is 3mm btdc.
Reversed the coil connections to yesterday, no difference, still have a string of sparks when turning the engine over at about 1000 rpm (power drill)
Stripped the carb again, poked through every hole I can find, all clear. Float bowl is full, fuel flows from the tank.
Put some fuel directly into the chamber and tried, nothing, and also then put a slug of fuel into the mouth of the carb, nothing.
The person before me wired a new capacitor in but outside of the mag, it should be inside, but this should be changed (if I had one) just in case..
Need to find out how to check a 6v cap.
Me and French 2 strokes just don't mix well.
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strong sense of deja vu here.
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Need to find out how to check a 6v cap.
Me and French 2 strokes just don't mix well.
The surest way is test by substitution and hope the replacement is a good one.
I have an all-singing Fluke meter with a capacitance test function and even that isn't conclusive. Capacitors are funny little buggers.
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Or get the mag tested on something like this Octopus.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48553593356_15da024de4_z.jpg)
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Cripes! They use those things in Sci-Fi movies!
Villiers Services have something similar, quite rare I think.
To the bike..
With no ignition of the fuel surely the plug should be very wet after 20 seconds of engine spinning? As it is the plug is only lightly misted over with fuel.
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I wouldn't say "very wet" after twenty seconds of kicking. After all, with the British Standard kicking leg that's only maybe 10-12 rpm.
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All these old french bikes are pre set to fail after brexit, its called the manu effect.
You have no chance, best do the french thing and surrender.
Bon noel.
Agincourt salute ;D
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LOL @ Mini, happy Xmas to you too. :)
The bike has no kick start, so I'm using a good 240v drill with a 14mm A/F socket directly onto the crank, magneto side.
The engine runs in a clockwise direction, so simply engage the drill, hold on tight and pull the trigger, the engine then gets turned over at about 1000 rpm for as long as you like.
Better than a kick start....
Makes no difference if you pull on the throttle piston or not.
The French who have not yet surrendered, start their engines this way but theirs start within about 2 seconds.
As ever, here I am again.
Have fuel, have spark, have compression, but nothing works.
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clockwise, you certain? i know of some that run anti clock........................
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Yep, checked it by engaging the engine friction drum to the back wheel and rotated the wheel in forward travel, the magneto went round clockwise.
The Terrot is anti clock.
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I have some very old french cheese, a bottle of sour plonk and some rancid foie gras if you need to make your christmas complete?
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Ha!
The bitter French taste will rest in the garage alone for a few days, then will start working it again.
It will all work out eventually! :)
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Well, it won't start as things are.
Decided to have the magneto re-magnetised and a new condenser, points look fine.
The carb is squeeky clean and I have compression. The decompression valve is working, ie is closed when free, and I do have a good spark.
Timing seems right to the 'handbook' the timing simply is the points are 'just' separating when the piston is 3mm btdc and the timing marks are co-incident.
Plug is damp after rapid spinning over of the engine but it will not fire.
Even when I dribble neat petroil into the carb mouth there is nothing. :|
Villiers Services do not open until next week, so will tinker with the Terrot.
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Now with all the festivities over, back to the projects.
Made some positive progress.
Took the magneto to Villiers Services who found one magnet 'dead' and the others at the low end/dead of the meter range, so those were done. A new Wipac condenser and new plug came home with me for £30.90.
Re-installed the lot and put the drill on the engine.
Nothing fired.
Put a shot of neat fuel mix into the spark hole, refitted the plug quickly and gave it the drill-start and had a few good fires before petering out to nothing, thus the issue now is the fuel supply. The carb isn't working.
Stripped it again and poke through every hole, but noticed that the hole from the engine side of the carb (call it hole A) is clear on its way to the atomiser but stops dead and short of the atomiser itself.
On the net found a cut away of the Gurtner D10 carb and the atomiser has a vertical drilling to the fuel supply that is clear but there is also a side drilling to the vertical drilling and the hole A as above.
This Hole A must bring some pressure/vaccum to the atomiser when the engine is running.
Thus I need to clear this cross hole in the atomiser, BUT the atomiser is not removable, it is a press fit into the carb body, so the access to the cross drilled hole is not possible!
The body is now humming in an US bath over night and I hope this will do the trick. If not, it is another carb...
But, at least is fired a few seconds! :)
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Considerable progress!
Put the carb body in the ultra sonic bath for 5 hours. There is one small drilling in the venturi jet that you can't poke through, so that might be the culprit I thought.
Oddly, bought a NOS carb body of UK Ebay for £13, awaiting delivery.
Just put the carb back together and all on the engine. Nothing.
Put a slug of near petroil down the plug hole and span it over for about 10 seconds and it fired, and it ran, and it throttled (quite well).
It even re-started on it's own without the neat fuel slug and I blipped it (odd phrase for a 50cc 1.5 bhp engine...) for a good time and tested tick over which killed it.
Decided to call it a day with a few thoughts.
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I think the very effective silencer is very choked with carbon and stifling the engine,
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I think the carb clean is 50% done, the NOS body should be the fix.
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Time to order all the bits to get the bike road worthy. :)
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Considerable positive progress over the last few weeks and the BIMA is nearly done.
The NOS carb off ebay proved to be perfect, brand new part in perfect condition and with a new well earthed condenser the engine fired and ran well and even settled to a good tick over.
I decided to clean out the silencer by opening up the top (which was paper thin due to rust) and replaced with fresh steel.
The new tyres, tubes and cables added next but awaiting new brake blocks and pedal arm cotter pins.
Feeling riding a bike today is a dangerous business I bought some simple led cycle lights and converted a period looking front lamp to white and simply clipped the red one onto the pannier frame. No batteries, just re-charged via a USB port.
This stuff is so cheap.
Made a number plate to fit to the un-restored original saddle, and hope to hand paint the reg number today.
A few more hours and it will be done and I will wait a few weeks for Spring to arrive in people's minds and try to sell both.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1X5wxPZ4/P1080184.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NfK2RdGh/P1080189.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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When I saw the top pic I thought you'd fitted two engines. ;)
What's the next piece of exotica on the menu after this one?
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Ah, yes, it does too!
Next?
Not sure really. would like to do another old(er) bike with girder front forks but finding suitable material is very hard now even if you ignore price.
Bikes at big shows are also pricey and seem very incomplete.
My interest in model aircraft has been re-kindled recently, so I think a year off the 'heavy' stuff would be good to allow my body to recover. Too many joints complaining after 55 years of messing with scooter and cars and French follies.
Another Lambretta or Honda beckons mind, but they are expensive to restore.
The Peugeot here is my first 'oily-rag' re-build and has been odd, but certainly is cheap and fast!
The Lambretta takes me back to a mis-spent youth and the Honda to when I wanted one of the modern Japanese, leak-free electric starting rockets...
Previous restorations:
(https://i.postimg.cc/HLFYvNK5/P1040907.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/j5NNdmJQ/P1050144.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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All done!
Bike now ready to ride with all controls working and the 'period' number plate and lights on, and soon on a few sites for sale.
Thanks for all the help from everyone on this and the Terrot.
Any good links to places where I can sell my pair of French Follies please?
(https://i.postimg.cc/sDRF2t63/P1080201.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BnL2wV31/P1080200.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/xCHxDdSM/P1080197.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Any good links to places where I can sell my pair of French Follies please?
Bloke in Shepherd Bush near the Westway will jump at these, as far as I recall, Steptoe is the name
worth about two balloons and a goldfish I reckon.
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They refused to take it even for that price...
Now up on a classic car/motorcycle site.
Just putting the BIMA up for now then in 3 years time when I've given it away I'll put the Terrot up. :)
Now, form an orderly queue gents, cash only please.
BUT, seriously would like to swap the two for another project bike.
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With Brexit ,there may be no more French tat imported......your examples may become valuable .
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Yeah...that'd be it.. ::)
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Ha!
Will make no difference I think, but apparently, Chambrier et Fils in France, a big parts supplier, is refusing to sell their tyres to the British trade outlets.
Getting their white wall tyres (the BIMA had them when new) is now near impossible. I found a set and the supplier had only 3 pairs left, others had non. You can only get the tyres from Chambrier…
I have found a better outlet for the BIMA, maybe the Terrot too so will try them for a Spring Feeling Sale, but if I can't sell I won't cry.
Might even ride them if I'm brave enough.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MTD237K3/P1080185.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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I'd be very surprised it a French tyre seller (or indeed any other product seller) can't or won't now sell to the UK.
Teaching the Rosbifs a lesson must be a lot lower priority than turning a profit.
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The French have never been our friends, not ever. Two faced lot.
They will now go on immense sulks and end up worse off.
I read French news papers on line, Paris, according to some of them not only stinks of piss, but the dog poo is as bad as ever, and there is a plague of bed bugs not only in Paris but the provinces.
Constant strikes last week the police were fighting the fire brigade in Paris, New year there was the ritual burning of cars, some 150 area of Paris are no go islamic radical areas.
Last time I was there parts of it looked like Beirut, pickpockets and scammers galore.
Little Macron,whose economy is in trouble is needs to do some rosbif bashing to distract from his own internal problems.
I used to be quite a francophile , but but my last vist ended that.
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Last went to Paris about 15 years back, never again, agree with the above description.
However, imho anywhere else 'rural/village/old town' is superb and by and large the roads are good too as long as you are on a toll road!
I used to work in France in the 80's and in the 3 factories I frequented (in the Group) I only knew 3 sincere blokes who I trusted.
Head office was in central Paris so I avoided that place.
Rex: I'm sure the ££££ will speak in the end, it always does, 'Money makes the world go around'; true words to a silly song.
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With the French money always talks, De Gaulle who had previously blocked us from joining the Common Market, because we would not share US nuclear knowledge with them, had to let us in in the end because he needed our cash to mollify and subsidise french agriculture. De Gaulles behaviour 1940-44 verged on treachery. He hated us "anglo saxons".
The pictureesque old french village etc has largely disapeared as every thing becomes euro-ised, villages by-passed by extensive motorway building have lost their shops and restuarants and little hotels. plentyof Macdonalds though.
I toured France on a bike 1987, 1991 back again in 2007, in between those years I was back and forth for pleasure and business reasons it was staggering to see the changes, all the above gone, incredible to think I had trouble finding a place to eat.
Why are their roads so good? EU handouts, ...why didn't we get some of it?
I'll never go back.
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Interesting!
In the 80's I worked for a multi-national, Rockwell International, who had bought the Wilmot Breeden Group, car locks and a lot lot more.
Rockwell inherited about 8 factories, 5 in France that had been opened by Wilmot at the request of the French government after WW2.
The plants were all located in very nice country towns, my base was in St Die in the Alsace, a lovely town full of one high street, little hotels and even smaller restaurants.
Went back in the early 2000's and oh my, it had changed!
Factory was still there but the rest was like a UK New Town.
I'm not here to bash the French, there are many good aspects to that country, but it has lost a lot imho, maybe the UK has too!
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The French farmers have a very effective way of showing dissatisfaction with politicians schemes......I d like to see the same thing here.
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Of course towns etc evolve over time, but the USP (as the hipsters like to say) of France was this concept of blokes wearing stripey shirts while riding a bike and off to the local tin-hut restaurant where they could buy a cordon-bleu meal for 50p, and all to the tunes of someone on a squeezebox. (Irony alert)
I used to tour Normandy every year on various old bikes and I was always struck by how actually lacking the region was in even half-decent restaurants and cafes, and the poor choice on the menu of those that were.
The local supermarche (the size of a Co-op Local) used to shut for lunch and again at five pm, and again the choice was limited.
So much of the "old France" has gone, but the new France seems well behind the times in so many ways.
The French farmers have a very effective way of showing dissatisfaction with politicians schemes......I d like to see the same thing here.
Yeah, a year of weekly riots gradually destroying cities, jobs, and political confidence. Think I'll take conventional democracy thanks.
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don't forget setting fire to live sheep............
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They weren't that bad, it was only British sheep after all..
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yes, and if they had lived they could have been slaughtered at Eid, an open air festival of cruelty the french authorities have no desire to stop in case someone gets upset and riots. Again.
French vineyards have some of the most polluted soil in Europe, their champagne has been beaten by our english sparklling wine, as has their famous cheese , Somerset produces an apple brandy far superior to almost anything produced in Calavados , which I have tested liberally.
Their agriculture is in trouble, like their economy, more so now they won't have our cash.
I think the only answer is to send back all those old french tat and mopeds asap.
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Hi, could I pick your brains on your bima rebuild. I bought mine about 3 years ago and it ended up in the shed as the tyres were beyond repair.
I looked into registration for UK but it says there are two sets of numbers. Try as I have, I cannot find the frame number. Where was yours located?
Tyres and inner tubes replaced and I can ride it as a bike with both breaks working (the will need a strip down, but ok for now).
My tank has surface rust inside. Clean it out or just reseal?
I could do with replacing many if the cables. Where do you get yours? The only one that is broken, is the nipple on the end of the carb cable as it pulls out the carb.
Any help would be greatly received.
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Hello!
You must have got yours the same time I had mine?
Frame number:
Really hard to find and not easy to interpret, but mine were a random set of numbers.
I told the DVLA the clear engine number and told them a frame number was not to be found so the log book states the engine number as the frame number to. This was not a problem once the details were formally confirmed by the National Autocycle & Cyclemotor Club.
You may not get too far with the DVLA without one of their certificates.
I did find some numbers in no order or 'line-up' on the bottom bracket where the pedal shaft passes through, but they all looked randomly stamped.
Cables were easy!
Bought general purpose cable of the right size (engine cables are the thinnest) off ebay. they came with a variety of nipples so you can thread them down the outers and crop to length.
Re-cabling the whole bike was tedious..
If I can help in any way, please contact me.
Graham.
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Thank you Graham, you're a star.
I think once I have the cables, i may just try and run her before stripping the carb etc.
I will let you know how I get on for sure.
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Just out of interest, did you restore front suspension no yours?
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I think once I have the cables, i may just try and run her before stripping the carb etc.
You could try, but it will most likely be unsuccessful and then you'll still end up stripping the carb. Not a problem though as it's so simple.
Really, stripping the carb, clean points, new plug etc ought to be the first things you do before trying to start it up. Saves time in the long run and checks the basics too.
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That's a fair point and I do have gasket paper, so I will give it a go.
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If you look hard enough, even on ebay, you will find gaskets for the carb.
As said, very simple carb, you almost think there are some parts missing when apart!
The internal drillings are super fine, and I was lucky to find a new body on ebay for £20, cured the starting issues.
Replace everything you think may have suffered over time.
Sweet running little engine when going.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kv8fsJ9t/P1080195.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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BIMA started yesterday using a pistol drill.
Took a bit of time until I realised the throttle cable had slipped, so after a re-set it started and ran well with good throttle response for such an engine.
Decided to sell this and the Terrot to make way for a Honda twin project.
Can be seen on ebay 'Peugeot Bima'
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I looked into registration for UK but it says there are two sets of numbers. Try as I have, I cannot find the frame number. Where was yours located?
Hi, I realise this is a very old thread but I'm very slowly restoring a couple of BIMAs. Just in case you need it, the frame number is on the left hand side rear wheel drop-out, where the spindle goes through the frame.
Mine needed a really good clean before I could see them. One is five digits, the other six, both look hand stamped.
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After Jan 1 2021 all french bikes in uk are programmed to self destruct, all part of napoleon Macrons big sulk :o :o ;D
he is farting in our general direction already.
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After Jan 1 2021 all french bikes in uk are programmed to self destruct, all part of napoleon Macrons big sulk :o :o ;D
he is farting in our general direction already.
Mine are pretty much self-destructed anyway, the few bits that haven't I'm taking apart.
Let's hope Macron doesn't taunt us a second time. ;D