classic motorcycle forum
Motorcycle Discussions => Japanese Bikes => Topic started by: Terrotmt1 on August 14, 2020, 05:18:05 PM
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Hello, I'm rebuilding my second Honda cb175 Twin, 1972.
Sadly, the bike is missing it's right hand side panel that covers the air filter.
I am hoping someone on here will have one please, willing to pay a good price!
If you have something, please contact me on here.
Graham.
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Have you explored ebay ?
There appear to be any number of anonymous thems there.
If you allow that most don't specify side, year or K number ?
And you don't say colour required.
Is this even close ?
Bit beaten up, but could be fibreglassed back into life if they are scarce enough ?
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/giMAAOSwDJNb2DVk/s-l1600.jpg (https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/giMAAOSwDJNb2DVk/s-l1600.jpg)
There is also this, but is the other side ?
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/UZsAAOSw15lfAElF/s-l1600.jpg (https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/UZsAAOSw15lfAElF/s-l1600.jpg)
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hanks, the design is wrong for the year of the bike.
The K6 was made from 72 to 76 and has air slots in each side as below.
I've found a place in Taiwan who make resin replicas but he won't ship to England...
I search ebay .uk and .com every day. Missed one a week ago on ebay for several reasons.
Thinking of 3D printing the right hand side using the left as a CAD model scan and doing a mirror image.
I could then have several made and sell them to re-coup the costs.
Should be like this:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/9nSnUBa_ooNA6KWrpDxCYqhwO0bv8Uya3T_1fl3W6ZEFcdiZbnClOilTKg8iXMNUAlWkrI0MryEACBdHVrdbth0dWkcxECEfShkZgpxi1vbcrQE
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Seems I don't have permission to view that.
This one ?
Grim when the price is POA !
http://www.stevecarthymotorcycles.com/product.php?productid=705&cat=0&page=1
If the demand is there, and you can print them to look good ...
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Yes, in touch with her, answer to the POA tomorrow, dreading it.
however, found a source for replicas, a pair for $100. Eager to se the quality, but if tomorrow is not too stunning, might get it.
I think the UK price is around £150 for the right, 45 for the left.
Apparently, the right gets damaged by kick starting the bike!
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Very pleased to say I bought the NOS right hand panel today, £150 all in, the going rate.
My first CB 175 re-build was hard, but the bike was totally complete and totally un-messed with. It needed everything so cost a fortune.
Incomplete bikes are worse....
anyway, very pleased, onward with the work.
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That's probably true as to be worth anything those Jap bikes need to catalogue-correct in every detail.
I recall a Classic Bike of the Year winner some years back who said that had his CB750/4 not had the original restorable exhaust he wouldn't have even bought it let alone restored it.
An A10 with the wrong exhaust...WGAF, but with a Honda etc it's a deal-breaker.
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Shall I tell you how I skipped a complete CB175 last week?
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No.
Tell me where!
Any cb175 complete for restoration is a find. They are rare, all having been scrapped (by Mini) or done.
Some parts are unique to a model many are common to the Honda Parts Bin.
The side panels are a unique part, and prone to damage by kick starting (odd, as the bikes have a great electric starter) or get split when wrenched off by a clumsy owner. The 3 mounting rubbers get very hard and the 3 panel location prongs get tightly locked in place.
The type is well remembered by many motorcyclists in their early days.
Such a great design esp after my recent follies...
(https://i.postimg.cc/4nk9Ys1C/DSC0070.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
https://i.postimg.cc/P5VMpThm/DSC0038.jpg
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actually it was a good while ago, dragged out of a neighbours derelict shed with a mini digger, hard to believe a motorcycle could be so rusty, can't remember if it had panels.
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Nice surprise today, the right hand side panel arrived from Steve Carthy Racing within 24 hours of ordering it.
It truly is NOS and perfect in candy red.
Now need to find 2 of the special cb175 badges to go on them, rarer still...
I now have the dilemma of paint and colour. My last CB had a pro candy gold paint job, cost a lot and looked brilliant, original colour of the bike.
I don't want to go through all that again (it was hard work chasing) and the cost, so thinking a custom colour, DIY, out of a rattle-can or 3.
This bike came to me with new David Silver exhausts which have the 'awkward' shaped down pipes, nothing like the real shape, so the bike is off-centre already to a purist like Rex.
If the next owner want a perfect paint job, then it is no big strip down to get it done.
My last CB:
(https://i.postimg.cc/WzB2XN95/P1050144.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Very smart, very smart indeed.
I had a CB450, and just made it a metallic blue. In good quality paint.
I think I sold it for at least $100 more than it cost me,
so I thought that was a good result ! (at the time).
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Thanks, the gold cb took a lot of time (I had just taken early retirement) but a lot of parts from David silver to rebuild it to original spec and those endless packets of this and that sure added up.
A few years on, and it is noticeable how some parts have dried-up from DS or even CMSL, ebay sources are drying too.
Worse job I did to the bike was my DIY seat recovering, bit embarrassing...
Colour plan is to make it mine, and to paint the tinware in Surf Green with the Honda design on the tank in black but surf green stripe and stock Honda badges, possibly the ones that came off the blue bike refurbished.
Blue looks a bit boring imho.
I want to DIY paint it using rattle cans thought I do have a compressor/gun and could paint in cellulose.
(https://i.postimg.cc/qqYR9svx/DSC-0003.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MT3KQ7VJ/P1050146.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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so the bike is off-centre already to a purist like Rex.
You've read me wrong there. I don't give two fecks about originality but the classic Jap market seems to.
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you made a nice job of it, I'll give you that, but I wonder how many years it'll be before it looks like the first pic once more.
I got rid of my Honda cub for a plastic Piaggio because the Cub was virtually breaking in half with rust, happily there are mugs out there that worship the things.Bad enough battling rust on old cars, bikes I expect to last more or less forever, I prefer decent tubes to tissue thin recycled steel scrap for a bike.
Have you ever consdiered a french bike to restore?
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Yes, what is it with Honda C50s etc? Every time the old "what is a classic?" comes up you can bet some $%^ will nominate a C50. A well-made and long-lasting little engine doesn't make up for the horrible gear change, awful ride and ugly looks.
And that's before we consider the rusty frames which kill 'em all in the end.
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I really don't care whether it's called a classic or not and I don't know why people get so wound up about it. Cambridge dictionary says: "having all the characteristics or qualities that are typical of something" and I think the C50/90 has that to excess.
Doesn't mean I want one though.
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In my view "classic" implies at least an element of "I'd love that" otherwise you're into choosing a dictionary definition which happens to fit the bike in question, and that's too dry for me.
You and me both don't want a Honda C50.
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Spent all morning tweeking and painting as much of the original parts as possible. Endless tasks!
Previous owner did a lot of messing with this bike and some parts are not right to the year of the bike, 1972, but all part of the fun.
My Thailand sourced side panels came today, so pleased I bought the nos one I found on Monday!
They would need a lot of massaging, so will be done next year!
Having a go at the air filters now, missing some parts of course.
As to Classics, dead right one has to tweek a heart string when seen to be a classic.
Also, Mini is very cruel to mention a French motorcycle so soon after my success with one...lol!
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Massaging Thai panels? happy ending sir? :o :o ooooh get him,
My C90 did the job it was bought for until I realised just how bad it was for the 21st century, but you should read the Cub website, they are all deranged. ..And deluded.
Like these 175 Hondas,they did the job, until they packed up.
Used to sell them new in the early 70's, a steady seller for the get you to work crew, the CD 175 was fugly but went on and on. Considering how many were sold, not many left as the tin maggot got them and they became worthless.
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Project bikes are hard to find despite so many of them made and sold.
USA bikes arrive but not many of these smaller twins.
Parts are generally findable, but the costs mount up.
Nicer way to spend time than on a Terrot!
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(https://i.postimg.cc/fbYR1Rtq/DSC0039.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/52bJjS6g/DSC0039.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dtFp9twt/DSC0039.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Been let down by the chroming man, latest date is 18 Sept, we shall see..
Paint progressing well for a DIY stab at the job. Will have saved a fortune.
LOTS of other stuff done in prep for the build up to continue, but stuck without the chrome.
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nice clean workshop you have there.
I presume with your masochistic tendancies you sleep outside unde a corrogated sheet?
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Nah, on top of course! :)
Tidy garage?
Yep, as an apprentice taught to clean up end of the day, not ott just tidy up, rubbish out and find the 13mm spanner that keeps on getting lost...
My last Honda was a tease at the end, bloody thing would not run on both carbs, one pot hot, other cold and next try the opposite, all about the balance but a vert fine line to get it on both cylinders, great when sorted mind.
Painting the tank today has been a bit nerve wracking, never my strongest skill.
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At last the painting is all done.
Decided to stick with my interpretation of the Honda original design and also to clear coat the tank and side panels with fuel resistant clear which gave an amazing gloss finish.
This DIY/rattle-can approach has saved about £500, cost has been just over £100, plus the challenge of doing metallic for the first time every is all done. :)
Life will delay any further progress for a while so I hope my chrome man will deliver the goods and progress will move into overdrive.
Chrome will allow all the front suspension to be installed and lots of other details, assemble the cables and then to all the lighting.
Time then to get it going and balanced, nearly done then! (as if....)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3x2Wygw3/DSC0048.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mZ6PKLqW/DSC0045.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Your timing has sadly slipped. By the time the chrome comes back etc you won't want to ride it anyway for a few months.
I know the feeling. I have two bikes which should have been on the road May/June were put on hold due to powder coaters and chromers closing for months. One's done (on the road last weekend) and the other is probably going to be finished in a couple of weeks...hopefully.
I'm hoping for a nice Indian Summer (if you can still say that?) to check and ride it before the Winter.
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I think you are dead right!
The 4 weeks went to 7 and now 10...
I thought my progress on this re-build would be quite slow, but I seem to be progressing quickly.
Wife thought/hoped it would keep me busy far beyond Xmas 2020, but I expect about end Nov or sooner.
Someone I know has asked if I would rebuild his Honda 250 engine from the same era, but not sure I want that responsibility.
Another has asked if I would rebuild his Honda too, whole bike.
They are a bit of effort but so nice to deal with, but I prefer a simple life, but without delays!
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Rebuild someone else's engine or bike? No thanks!
I used to do little jobs for people years ago for beers, and you always get the inevitable "ere, since you put a new front tyre on me bike six months ago the stoplight bulb has blown twice...what have you done to it?"
Like you, I wouldn't want the responsibility/take the crap if things go wrong.
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too bloody right Rex, been there done that.
"here, my main bearings have packed in,"
"well whats that got to do with me?"
" you mended a puncture on it last year, and my mate says............................................."
and there are those out there that think I exaggerate. >:(
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Chrome man is still silent after his 2nd promise. I think I will have to go and remove the parts and find another once I've spoken to him (I hope) on Monday. Totally stopped due to chrome being 4 weeks late.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mrVxLjqj/DSC0036.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Some big moves forwards on the bike for a change.
Collecting the chrome on Tuesday :shock:
The materials to make myself some side panel badges arrived, silicon mould chemicals and casting resin to make the parts. I was sceptical about this approach, be easier to buy some rattly originals in the USA, but that would be easy, and £90 each.
I have one stripped original which after cleaning I used as a piece to be moulded. Bought a kit off ebay for £23 and made a tight fitting casting box.
Mixed the silicon and gently poured it into the casting box slowly so allowing any trapped air to leak out. The badge is quite detailed, and most people do this work with a vaccume chamber which of course I don't have.
Mould cured in 24 hours and removed the original part. The detail in the mould looked very sharp from the bits I could see, so while it was super clean I mixed the cast resin and poured the first slug into the mould. The mix sure gets HOT, but after cooling and removal the part had two voids where air was trapped, but the detail on the casting was superb!
Encouraged, cast another with a slope on the flimsy mould and dribbled the resin mix in to the point the mould was flooded and waited.
It came out perfect! Really good, so cast some more to the same effect, I'm in production almost!
Made the reflector 'jewels' from trailer reflectors which will be glued onto the painted badges soon as the chrome paint arrives, Flat white and flat satin black applied with a fine sable brush will finish them off.
Result! :drunken: Cost £26 and I have spares to keep or sell.
Also cleaned and trial fitted the twin exhaust systems which fit like a glove. They came with the bike and have saved me about £450.
The chrome arriving will march to bike on hugely.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SR46dyF7/DSC0041.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vHqng7Bv/DSC0039.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Nice work. I have often thought of doing something similar but never got to do it.
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Very good work, congratulations. Out of curiosity, was it necessary to make the silicone mould box so complete, ie with such high sides? Or is that because you had to fully immerse the original and then cut it out?
REgards, Mark
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The sides are high as I wanted the mould to be reasonably ridged as you have to get it out of the casting box and then it is remarkably flexible, this is why the mould is floated level to the side walls.
Inverted to cast, the face is flat on the bench so keeps the part shape true to the original.
I had to cut the 'triangular' hole to get the original out and of coarse, the cast part.
The mould is fragile, I doubt I could cast more than 10 items before tears would ruin it, but I've never done anything like this before, so a bit of a leap of faith.
These badges are rare, even rarer than the side panels, and it is just too easy to buy something from the States for around £100 each which are prob damaged, esp the right side (kick-start bashing).
Plan is to shape the reverse sides of the castings to fit the side panels then silver/chrome spray, hand detail the character colours and clear coat for robustness.
The original came from the USA for £28, the casting kit from ebay for about £26 but I have 7 badges.
I will keep the original as reference and prep 2 castings for use.
This is not a 100 point restoration, just a nice usable Twin.
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Thanks for that explanation, I'm not planning anything similar but all restoration tips are useful!
Looking forward to the finished result,
REgards, Mark
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An hour or so with Humbrol paints and a fine brush has the badges all done.
I have come to the conclusion there is NO chrome paint that works, so having found out the hard way that Humbrol paint reacts with 'chrome' paint I reverted to my trusty UPOL paints.
Etch primered the 4 cast badges and sprayed them Wheel Silver, a can I had in in 'stock'.
After a few hours and a flu jab later the silver paint was cured, and I have two coats of Humbrol matt white and satin black in place.
These look ok about 12" away, but no closer! However, will do a treat on this re-build bike.
Will adhere them to the side panels with clear silicon once I find some and they are all done.
Still puzzled over the wiring of this little simple bike, conflicting opinions on the voltage regulator and routing of the loom by the tank. the Haynes manual diagram does not show a voltage reg at all..
Tank now has a nos Honda dual outlet petcock at a huge £40, but will be leak-free,
Can't wait to get the chrome back as so much will happen with those parts to hand.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zvtrPwJj/DSC0037.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Some of the smaller Honda never had regs at all...CD200 etc. The alt output was matched to the electrical load so no spare juice to be regulated.
I had three cheap 6V batteries over the course of about 12-15 years on my daily driver CD200, so clearly the system worked OK.
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This cab is a 12 colter, but I think there is some tweet which boosts the system when the lights come on, an extra coil in the generator, but I'm hoping there will be some wires spare that will match up with the voltage reg.
The 1976 cb175 I did had the rectifier, but I don't remember fitting a voltage regulator and can't see one on the pics I took along the way as I restored it.
The circuit diagram does not show the volt reg.
The cb has an electric start if that has any bearing on it.
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That sounds like late 6 volt Lucas systems fitted to British bikes with alternators. The alternator can only produce alternating current (AC) by design and batteries must have direct current (DC) to charge so the designers make the alternator feed all the rest of the electrical system via a rectifier which turns AC into DC. The variation in output as alternator speed rises isn't very great on a 6v system so the bulbs and horn can cope with the small potential over-voltage. This is doubled in a 12 v system so more likely to blow bulbs and boil batteries, therefore the need for a regulator to prevent over charging. Designers could use a CVC (Compensated voltage control) box as on cars of the era but these were better suited to dynamo systems as well as expensive and don't really like being in the hostile environment of a motorcycle! Semiconductor electronics had yet to arrive of course. So they did it on the cheap by balancing load to supply and losing the excess current as heat via the battery and bulbs.
Warning! Some parts of this explanation have been simplified!
REgards, Mark
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Thanks Mark. On the loom there are no terminals to take the wires from the regulator, all sockets are together and the only loose wires are right at the back for all the lights, or a lot up front for the headlamp/indicators etc
Again, the diagram in the Haynes manual does not show for the CB 175 UK.
Maybe when I finish all the light connections there will be 4 wires over....
Spent 2 hours this morning getting the loom fitted right over the frame/underside of the tank. The loom is brand new, bought by the prev owner from David Silver, but it seems not quite right. Many wires are simply too short, and by 50mm in places.
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Some manufacturers produced 'generic' wiring looms to cover several different models or different market variations. I've come across redundant wiring on Honda, Suzuki and Moto Guzzi for instance. I can't explain the short wiring, is it an original Honda part or a copy?
REgards, Mark
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Copy, but from respected Honda classic specialist David Silver, so should be good, they don't sell tat, BUT, all these specialists rely on supplier QA control..
I think it is all in and tied/clamped down and the tank on now, so hope I don't need to move it!
Utterly scuppered until the chrome is collected on Tuesday, then I can get going again.
Since learnt that it was the USA bikes that had a voltage regulator, the UK bikes did not have one.
There is a modern rectifier that has a voltage reg in it which switches the generator to high output mode every time it runs.
Tempted!
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Chrome back, and a trial fit of the home made badges:
(https://i.postimg.cc/TPd9ZFv5/DSC0039.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qqjbtwG5/DSC0038.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Looking good.
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Thanks!
Needing a bit of relief from the 'Garage saga' and my ill Skoda Superb, and with the rain, it was the perfect day to do a bit now the chrome was here, no excuses.
Pictures hopefully say more than my clumsy words, but started with a 'mojo' lift and got the chrome on the rear first.
All went well, the indicator mounts are a bit special but with many parts now NLA had to improvise and get the same result. These Hondas vibrate so many parts are rubber insulated, so important to try and do the same.
Rear done (wheel etc on tomorrow) the front forks came next which is a bit delicate with all the paintwork and chrome, but again, all went well. Instruments on the brackets all tight and damper fork oil in. Had a leak, so fixed that and all together. The front fender was a bit tedious as it was not made for this bike, originals NLA years ago.
Made a school-boy error on the forks, wrong way round... so took it all apart and did it again...…
Hope to get all tomorrow on the bike again tomorrow, plan is to mount both wheels, run the cables and stare at the wires again that somehow fit in the headlamp, goodness knows where they all go.
Finally, fit the emblems to the side panels for good.
Looking like a bike!
(https://i.postimg.cc/G35V9PXP/DSC0052.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tCFKfZzh/DSC0053.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fRZGhzH1/DSC0054.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qvL9JPSq/DSC0057.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Managed a few more hours in the garage over the last days adding more parts, adding stainless washers everywhere (rust free) and even shake-proof washers in hot places where I'm not sure a nyloc would survive.
This stuff takes ages, but progressing.
Installed the rear wheel and all brake links, tedious in the tight spaces, centre stand on and return springs ordered.
On the left side could finally mount the one half of the exhaust with copper plated shake proof nuts on the so delicate looking M7 studs (all new).
Stainless clamp of course and silicon to seal the joint (high temp spec, not B&Q).
Clutch cable in with small tensioner spring (typical Honda detail which make these classics so nice), chain on, new, and chain guard all on.
Keep on looking at the wires, hate electrics, so putting that off until it is unavoidable.
Hope to do the front wheel with its fancy TLS drum, cables an speedo cable too. Cables came from Taiwan and are superb quality, even have the plastic anti-rattle sleeves on the handle bar ends, so nice and 1/2 price of anything in the UK.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yx9HZ07N/DSC0036.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tRVywGFH/DSC0037.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zXZ512kH/DSC0038.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VLqws97G/DSC0040.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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That's one you won't want to take out in the rain.. ;)
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Yes...quite.
The tyres don't fill me with confidence tbh, feel a bit hard to me though they are 3 years old, never been on the road. :)
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Spend all that time and money on a restoration then use tyres you're not happy with?
A no-brainer, as our US cousins like to say.
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Tyres can spend years in the warehouse waiting for a buyer.
As long as they are wrapped and don't spend time in the sun, they are good to go. ??
They can spend years in a garage waiting for their next ride.
As long as you take it easy to begin with, to rub off the 'skin' they form, they are OK ?
Knowing that the tube inside is still serviceable may be of more concern.
What is the official proclamation of time expiry ?
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I have tyres on one bike older than that Honda, no problem, but I don't race it.
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New tyres are always nice on anything, you can have new poor tyres, and older great tyres...
Not sure what tyres are best, possibly not the most expensive.
They came from a reputable supplier who did the new rims, spokes and tubes.
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few more hours in the garage on the bike progressed things a little.
I think after this post I'll slow reports down until a major milestone is reached.
Missing on the bike was the second pair of exhaust sleeve halves, and as these are also hyper rare (at a reasonable price) I made some from metals I had around me.
That job done the front wheel went in and after a few tries finally sorted the tls lever travel out so I have max leverage at just before contact of the shoes.
Other parts should arrive tomorrow to finish off the mech parts of this rebuild tomorrow, then it has to be the electrics...
The proportions of these little Honda twins is just so right.
(https://i.postimg.cc/905VKKzb/DSC0043.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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On the subject of oil:
The Haynes manual stated 'Castrol GTX' oil, with no further info.
For this little CB what modern oil would be best suited?
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Oh no, not an oil thread!
Cheap 20/50 and change it yearly regardless of mileage (obviously subject to doing either no miles at all or an astronomical mileage)
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Yes, the curse of any car or bike forum!
I'm sorry!!
Wet clutches and modern formulae in oils made me wonder....
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I use the Castrol 4T in all my bikes with no problems.
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you can't beat olive oil, keeps your tools from going rusty, Popeye told me that.
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Moses went to Mount Olive so Popeye hit him.
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Only Mini can put a smile on my face after another 3 hours on this bike's wires!
Looks like the starter solenoid is cream-cracker'd, so to the flasher relay, but got the neutral position circuit done and a few other circuits.
Slowly, slowly catch the monkey. The Gold bike was the same.
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I thang you..........
if you aint old enough refer to arfur askey
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Things getting serious...
All the electrics are up and running after a few 'earthing' issues and a few mysteries, but all works.
Time for petrol and sparks once I get the engine oil into the bike, but the electric starter works a treat.
Now, just what can possibly go wrong as the phrase goes...
(https://i.postimg.cc/CLyRkTXK/DSC0043.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Might be a daft question but you're not going to fire it up on the stand, are you?
First starts I always like to have the doors open, the bike on it's wheels and a fire extinguisher to hand, so if there's something nasty involving fire I can push it outside and use the extinguisher.
Bad enough to lose a bike without losing a workshop too.. :'(
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Thanks for your concern!
The table is on wheels and the garage is 2 car wide, but it will be run on the table outside on the drive which will have all car there elsewhere.
Keeping it on the table out of convenience to get eye level to th engine timing and carbs.
I did the gold bike on its wheels, and you have made me think again.
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Couldn't resist trying a quick start up.
Rigged the fuel supply up and filled the bowls. Checked for a spark on both plugs, present and correct, but could be fatter.
Pressed the starter button.
Nothing, but did not try very hard or for very long.
One carb bowl leaking slightly so that needs sorting tomorrow, other side OK.
Had a lot of trouble with the gold cb, so here we go again...me and carbs and sparks do not mix well.
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bloody drama queen, here we go again, another 200 pages of why won't it go mister............ ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Whoe! Miles off: :)
One carb leaks from the bottom bowl gasket, so need to replace the rubber seal that has been compressed for 48 years...
Will do both carbs, kit on order.
However, it runs. Lovely Honda Twin rumble, vibrations everywhere (they are all like that).
Some tuning to do tomorrow, but a great kick-off to the last match.
Could this be the quickest re-build on here?
So there Mini, nothing for you to read! :P ;D
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Well done mate. So it's just two smokes that you're NBG at.
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I've had far more adventures with 2 strokes and 4 than I care to remember.
Strikes me the more complicated the engine the better chance I have of success. ::) over all the years I've spent tinkering I've enough knowledge to be dangerous.
I can almost 'feel' mini's disappointment! :)
These small Hondas are sensitive to the resistance of the air filters, so tuning needs to be done with them on etc.
My gold cb had some carb issues that took a long time to sort to get the balance right between the carbs, but this is a great design of bike in my limited experience.
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It's getting irritating.
Fresh float gaskets, 21mm float heights, still a dribble every now and then from the overflows.
Brand new coil.
Got it started ok, very hard to get a reliable tick-over, according to the tach best I can get is 1900 or so before it stops.
Air screws do noting, so presume the tacho is reading accurately enough.
Thr rh side that was running cold now runs hot and the left is now luke warm, about 32 deg C, the temperature difference is just touchable at the exhaust tip on the rh side, easy/cold touch on the lh side.
This is exactly how my gold cb was, the hot/cold sides would alternate not during a run on the bench, but between cold starts sometimes.
Bowls are full due to occasional weeping from the overflows.
So, just how do I get these to balance? Any ideas please?
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I had a Black Bomber that was a pain for the regular drip from the carb overflow. Two rebuild kits from Japan (utter shite the lot of it, so much for Jap precision!) endless float height checks etc and it still did it.
Stripped it down for the nth time and inspected the little brass standpipe in the float bowl with a jeweller's loop, and sure enough, on the side nearest the bowl wall (ie the blind side) the pipe was split for about 6-8mm along it's length.
Rather than wait for a new one to turn up I cleaned and sealed the split using solder, and it worked a treat.
Still didn't make it anymore interesting to ride though and it was sold soon after.
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Yes, 'don't trust a thing'!
Going to check everything tomorrow, timing etc while it is all cold. My previous gold cb had this very same issue 5 years back, dammed if I can remember what someone in the USA told me to do but it simply worked...I'm too old for this game!
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If the idle screw has no effect you've got a blocked fuel or air passageway in the carb body. Probably a tiny drilling in the idling circuit. Plus check what Rex said as I've no knowledge of Jap bikes. Good luck.
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Thank you, yes, time to backtrack over everything.
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great, now, where to start, mmmm, change carb?, no ...change coils?, no.. change handlebars?, a bit better but not quite, change spark plug, several grades, no not that either.
change fuel? amost, now, lets set light to it................thats sorted it.
groundhog day?
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Ha!
I've got some advice on the task in the USA, great forum for Honda Twins.
I cracked the same issue 5 years back and it was in those threads 5 years ago which a moderator had found for me to read.
Keep my mind off a dentist visit tomorrow reading that lot, but it will be fixed soon.
Best bit is the electric starter, no endless kick starting action. My knee still hasn't recovered from the French Follie.
Anyway, good to see your advice has not changed over the years! :)
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But you have a sense of humour to get you through, something sadly lacking on nearly all old bike forums. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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This is very true.
Some dohbait on another group has a B31 with a worn out clutch chainwheel, and his mate told him that he can fit a Suzuki clutch so he was asking the WWW how he could do it.
Got quite arsey when the general opinion was a) yer mate's talking bollix, and b) why not fit another BSA part and keep om chugging along for another 60+ years?
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Funny you blokes should mention that, I find any humour severely lacking on sites these days. Considering that 50% of posts are rubbish, I would have thought more laughter would be appropriate.
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My mate says................ >:(
when I had my bike shop that was far as it got, rude interruption then said fek off and get your mate to fix it.
I think you'll find Rex that there is a growing element amongst the know it all younger than us that believe that if you fit enough new technology to an old bike it will miraculosly become a new old bike.
That have not cottoned on that new tech has not yet lasted as old tech.
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Think I've got it today.
Stripped the carbs for the 8th time, cleaned and cleaned again, poked all the holes etc and re-assembled.
It started just like that, instant on the electric starter and I warmed it up.
Had the usual hot side/cold side and it almost switch over sides during some tweaking, BUT I seem to have found a sweet spot.
The tick over is close to a Harley though the tacho says 1800 sounds more like 3 rpm to me.
The pilot screw seems close to redundant but has with some combination of throttle slide adjustment seem to have bought the engine to balance, the silencer temps are really close.
Boyed by that, the next step is to fit the air filters and see if things are all ok after and re-tweak. These little bike can be sensitive I've read to the choking effect of the cleaners, but I hope my custom foam ones will win through.
Number plate arrives tomorrow, seat on and IT IS FINISHED. :o
(As if...)
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Well done mate, or until the next time. Dada dada dada, Just when you thought it was safe. ;D
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Thank you.
With this one coming to a close, I doubt I will get a chance to ride it anytime soon, so that may be 2021..
Not sure what to do for a project next. Hard to find a project of this type to consume time and give interest that is small enough to squeeze into the garage.
Pause for thoughts.
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Hi Terrot,
The pilot screw seems close to redundant
In that case there's still problems with the carbs,
Not having them in my hands to see how exactly they are laid out but "lack of response to the pilot screw adjustment" is usually down to one of the passages from the jet / screw up to the bore of the carb
There are usually two tiny passageways, one comes up just on the engine side of the throttle slide and maybe under the edge of the slide nearby
Years ago I worked on a lot of CD 175's and SS125's (single carbs) They always ran best on the book setting
I also found that those Keihin carbs worked extremely well on Triumph Tiger Cubs :o again altering anything from the Honda book setting resulted in poorer running
John
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Yes, take your point.
It is running, but maybe not at it's best!
There are 3 small drillings to the pilot. The long one from the pilot to the small hole just behind the slide is clear on both and easy to poke through (I'm using BOC gas welding tip cleaning wires).
However, there are two shorter ones that you cannot get to unless you remove the small ball bearing seals, and those could be blocked.
No idea how to clear them. Both carbs have been in a small US bath for hours before all this kicked-off.
Maybe a professional US bath is needed?
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Soak 'em in thinners for a couple of days and use a high pressure air nozzle.
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Yes, I now have a doubt in my mind about the drillings thanks to John! ;D
There is one that is about 8mm long, drilled and sealed by ball bearings right in the heart of the body for the air ratio pilot screw and I have to get that sorted now.
I've cleaned old Porsche weber carbs (huge things) in thinners soaked for a week and that seemed quite good but the drillings are far larger dia.
Plan is to strip them and take the bodies to Villiers Services close to me and get them to US clean as they would for their carb rebuild service, and, as you suggest a weekend in thinners will finish the job.
As an expert ow on French and Japanese carb stripping it won't take long. Practice makes perfect and this will be the 9th time the carbs have been apart....
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I found this for you to work on as the next project-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Classic-motorcycle/143811112843?hash=item217bcf6f8b:g:lZ4AAOSw8GZfmb9v
It ticks all the boxes, French, two-stroke, old, no spares but very attractive in a Gallic sort of way. Looks younger than 1940 to me though.
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It does have a certain je ne sais quoi.....
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I think my next project is the hall stairs.....
The carbs could not be cleaner!
Brake cleaner shoots through all the passages and jets, and to top it off they spent time in the US cleaner at Villiers Services this morning.
Bike running on equal heat both sides and a low tickover. I don't trust the tacho's accuracy.
Good response to the twist grip so leaving it all at that.
The air screws STILL do nothing around the 0.5 turn to 2.5 turns to the tick over.
The starter chain/sprags etc make an awful din now but sometime hook up and spin the engine well to start, so taken the generator cover.case off.
The chain is very slack, but i doubt it would go on if I took a link out.
Are they supposed to look 'too slack'?
The lower half is nearly touching the engine case.
I have new sprags etc coming, but maybe I should bite the bullet and fit a new chain while in there.
Oil came out black, so discarded.
Last snag to fix is the leaking lh side fork.
Fork oil keeps on coming out albeit very slowly. Seems to be coming from where the front mudguard mounts. Maybe the fastener hole has broke into the lower fork casting?
Anyhow, still progressing.
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I think he should get something with patina like this one.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50550425753_16696a8110_z.jpg)
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Ha!
I'm WAY AHEAD of you all.
Have this already, it works, quite horrid to ride, thinking of electric motor instead of petrol and save this planet.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9MrCXpzz/P1080193.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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It does have a certain je ne sais quoi.....
It does, and looking at the footrest rubbers etc it hasn't seen a lot of miles.
Think I'd be tempted to strip out the engine and box and fit something cheap and reliable like C12 gear...if I liked little bikes or French bikes anymore!
(I don't)
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I think he should get something with patina like this one.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50550425753_16696a8110_z.jpg)
I restored one like that a few years ago. When I finished it, it was so gutless I immediately sold it via a Bonham's auction - it was one of the few bikes that I didn't manage to break even on. Quite interesting to work on however.
As bought:
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/images/as_bought.jpg)
After restoration:
(http://www.iansoady.org.uk/images/left_restored.jpg)
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Fabulous little bike and a great job done by the looks of it.
These light bikes are good diy projects esp if the 'journey' is where your interests are which is true in my case.
I find restoring/rebuilding bike really good, easy to do compared to classic cars.
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Up to a few years ago I would consider pretty much anything restoration-wise, but now I'm more aware of time/cost/interest considerations so I'm much more choosy.
With all due respect to Ian and his Quickly (great little mopeds there were, too) I now only take on projects which are both interesting and road-useable. Not a lot of point for me in turning up for the Sunday run on 50cc of smokin' power, but if they're not for using then they're garage art and I don't have enough room for that, sadly.
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When my Terrot and the little BIMA were on ebay for sale I had several offers from Shop fitting companies wanting the bike for window displays which disheartened me.
The Terrot found a very enthusiastic owner with a big Gite in southern France which is where the bike now is.
The 'clientele' for the BIMA were a very different lot, from 'I want it for free, delivered' to 'give ya hundred quid mate' to nearly break-even sensible offers.
I took non, felt I was worth more.
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The starter sounded terrible (electric) so replaced the motor, replaced the rollers/caps and springs, didn't replace the chain (mistake I think) and it sounds as awful now as it did before.
Parts were delayed as the 'in-stock' cover gasket was in fact in stock in the USA, but parts arrived today.
Putting that snag to one side, started the engine.
Would not start, churned over and over and then realised I had left the plug caps off....day not going well.
Running now but really not well. LH side hot, smoking rich and rusty water droplets profusely coming out the back, RH side cold. Here we go again!
Cold rh side carb then really flooded!.
Removed that carb and checked the float level, 21mm with the float just touching the sprung tip.
Decided to check the needle to the brass seat and that seals, so did a radical thing and set the float to 21 with the car upside down, ie the needle seated by the weight of the float.
Put it all back together and no flooding, however stone cold when running (LH side hot and smoking rich) and the speed adj screw does nothing, understandable as no combustion on the RH side...
It's 4.00 o'clock in the afternoon, just had a cup of tea and put the bike into the garage and tomorrow is another day.
Will this bike ever come into tune?
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Have you ever thought of buying a camel?
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No, but a single carb bike would be good... :)
I'm missing something, but goodness knows what.
I'm sure mini has a solution esp as it's bonfire night everywhere.
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I'll give you £100 for it......
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It won't burn properly and think of the pollution.
However I live on the edge of Salisbury Plain, on there are something called Impact zones and the chaps are getting very busy live firing this month,now if you could arrange to get your bike into one of them, an AS90 will ensure it is well shredded, it won't be missed,already plenty shrapnel up there.
I can feel the percussions this morning from here.
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:)
£100...tempting! ;D
My count so far is £2760 for absolutely everything, so when done I could sell at a PROFIT!
Only ever been in that position once before in my tinkering life.
Plan is to remove the carbs and drown them in cellulose thinners and rig up an airline so to blast a laser sized air stream down the drillings to get the pilot jets to work sub 1800 rpm because they are doing nothing at present.
Bought some bling for the bike today to keep me going, the aluminium number plate has finally arrived!
Bike is definitely All Show, No go at present, bit like a little French bike was.... ::)
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this bugger will sort it for you, you are almost in range..........
https://youtu.be/GM9C0VWmLpI
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Thinners and air line? I thought I told you to do that several posts ago.
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he posts on here for sympathy, he don't want your bloody advice.
if he listened he would'nt buy so much crap bikes.
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TRG:
Yes, this is the 2nd time round though!
Did the thinners route before taking the carbs for professional US clean, hoped it might loosen any debris.
Trying to get back to everything is actually clear today, so thinners and air again.
I'm now convinced the drillings and jets etc are all clear the ups and down cross drillings are all clear and there are 5 90 deg corners in the drillings and some very short runs, but all ok.
I have carb cleaner coming out of every port and fine hole aided by the 60 psi air jet.
Sympathy? Yep, could do with some, encouragement? yep need that too as success is in short supply, advice? always needed, every day is a school day.
I am not alone, there is a fellow Honda Twin owner having some carb probs also not far from me, but his probs are slightly different.
Given time I'll get this right, just need to stay in the trenches to avoid snipers and heavy artillery from the Salisbury direction! ;)
Next report will be me bragging it is all ok. 8)
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wasn't the old CD175 single carb?
no bothers with that, fugly old bike but they seemed to go on for ever.
far better idea.
most on here have given all sorts of advice such as stop fiddling with old crap, as reralistically you could have bought a superb vintage bike for the money you wasted on these things.
I do wonder.
When I was in the trade we sold dozens of these new, a good seller, but a good bike, for 5 years max, thats why there are so few left, disposable machines.
I have a 1930s Raliegh pushbike, it was sold with a life time guarantee, thats confidence in the quality of your goods. Its still a very servicable cycle in its oriiginal enamel and chrome.
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I think you well know the classic bike world has many facets.
Buying a done AJS would be in the. Price range, maybe, a done Bantam is in range and possibly many others.
Not my aim though.
I like the rebuild journey, the fight to overcome issues like the current one, maybe frustrating for me and you/ others, but all prt of the enjoyment.
For the Money spent I could have a new Chinese AJS, single, fuel injected, disc brakes, all mod cons and a real looker, but....
I don't really like big old oily British bikes, though a Royal Enfield appeals.
I think all old bikes are cantankerous and awkward as are all classic cars, all of a different age and attitude, today all quirky and eccentric.
Oddly, those new AJS bikes have 1/2 the power of this Honda, and double the braking!
:) :)
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Keeps the board ticking over if nothing else. A bit like "what do people think of a so and so".
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Yeah, you don't want to paying good money for some other bodger's chrome and paint. Unrestored is the way to go, after all, if you just wanted reliability to ride you'd buy a new Honda.
"Big old oily British bikes"? I've just got an old Panther on the road and I'm going through the so-called shakedown process. It ticks all the boxes you mention plus another, the bulk and weight of a fully-loaded Sherman tank.
I swear it looks at me and says "you sure you've retarded the ignition and engaged that half-comp lever, big boy?"
Still, when I went out for a run on the West Sussex lanes last Wednesday under those beautiful blue skies that slow measured doink-doink-doink exhaust note was just about perfect for the day.
Nah, small tiddlers ain't for me just yet..
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you got it spot on Rex, unless you've experience the pleasure of a relaxing ride on a lazy big single, as opposed to the fussiness of a more modern bike you'll never understand.
As for enjoying the 'rebuild journey' and the 'fight to over come issues' try an obsure veteran or vintage where there is no easy cop out like importing expensive rare spares from abroad, the Marston Sunbeam club are using CAD/laser machines to make stuff, recasting parts, and so on.
for vintage machines there ain't no parts to find.
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Made some good progress over the last 2 days.
Cured the carb flooding issue. The carbs have a float with a brass tang in the centre which bears down on the needle valve. I found the angle was at 45 deg and not true to the needle valve causing a side load on the needle and jamming open, hence the flood of fuel.
Tick off the List.
Got the engine running better, far better with oh-so-small incremental movements of the tick over screw and the pilot air/fuel ratio screw, talk about a tight rope tuning. These carbs are infamous for this quirk.
Tick off the List.
Fixed the loose headlamp mountings by re-assembling the top fork handle bar yoke and all snugged-down nice and tight. No headlanp shakes now.
Tick off the List.
Trial and fitted the mega expensive side panels except they didn't fit at first. Numpty here had placed the tool box in the wrong pair of mounting holes in the chassis frame, what a faff to move and re-fit! All on now.
Tick off the List.
Fuel tank back on and fully coupled up. Pesky balance tube connecting the left and right sides of the tank fought me all the way, but lost.
Tick off the List.
Fitted the new seat from Taiwan, what a bargain for £100 delivered, resplendent with the 'HONDA' script of course. Perfect fit, fabulous.
Tick off the List.
Fitted the aluminium number plate at long last, really looks the Classic it is.
Nearly completed now, waiting for a new expensive starter chain to arrive and the bike can come down off the stand although it is very convenient on the stand while I prepare for some work on the Lola and the 911.
3 weeks late on the project!
(https://i.postimg.cc/m228jMyg/DSC0047.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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What engine's in the Lola?
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The Lola is a T492, Sports 2000 but I've put a Porsche 911 engine in, 3200cc 11 years ago.
247 bhp and the car weighs 560 kg, used for hillclimbs which I've done for 30 years now.
At my age I should know better....
Google Lola T492 hillclimb and its the blue one!
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The one captioned Nick Lees?
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Nope, this one Rex:
(https://i.postimg.cc/ht9vGCfC/Prescott-Lola1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Were there different body styles? The type I pictured in my memory have more swoopy bodywork and faired-in headlamps that that one.
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The T 492 was made in '77 and '78, about 120 were made and many exported.
In the 120 were a few specials to suit different classes mainly in the USA, and some had night time event lights etc.
The 490 had a short run of 20 made with the engine (a 2 litre Ford Pinto) rad in the front, so a large slot was in the nose for cooling.
In 78 the rads were moved to each side at the rear.
Prior to the 490/492 was a series of far more serious sports racers, the most dramatic being the T212 with BDA engines and these had far more curvaceous bodies, maybe that is the type you have in mind.
My T492 has had a very varied and hard life since 78 and I spent 4 years tracking down the history that had a few surprises and some great family stories.
I found mine in a posh private garage as a roller so the chance to change engine was on the table.
Having been very 'porsche' for 32 years, the air cooled flat 6 seemed the right choice along with it's road going gearbox, the second weak link in the car, me being the first...
Doing the cars is really my bag, the bike are a very nice mini-project to do, hence my inaptitude towards them!
In case you are interested, and before mini and others shout at me:
https://youtu.be/KFuZGAW7Eow
(https://i.postimg.cc/zf76NPgZ/911andlola-001.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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I won't shout at you over that thing, not at all, simply because my interest in such things in a bit less than minimal.
4 wheels are for carting large bits of bike, wife, dogs, and similar impedimenta around.
We all have our preferences for boys toys.
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Haven't you got one of those posh 4 wheel motorbike things for cruising around your acres?
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Indeed mini, each to their own and that is good, we should keep an open mind.
Been labouring for the Head Gardener on the Estate today, so I know my place, and not a ride-on in sight.
Last part of the rebuild is coming from the USA, about the only place now where parts are available as bits drying up fast.
5 years ago parts were easy and cheap, not anymore.
I should have checked before I bought this bike..
A few posts ago it was mentioned to get parts made/cast etc using 3D printing and CAD, I ran a large design dept when working and spent a lot of time with these methods every day.
I considered using 3D printing to have made the plastic side panels, the left is a mirror of the right, so seemed a good route seeing as a pair was about £250 without the rare badges.
Quotes came back around £550 for the pair +vat etc and 3 weeks, many also wanted one real part to scan and then to print after for that.
I paid the £250 for parts, left side was £28, the rarer right side the rest. The badges on each side sell in the USA for £90 each and tend to be damaged. I bought a knackered one, cleaned it up and resin cast 6 for £25, painted them in with Humbrol paint and a steady hand.
A pair with badges appeared on ebay for £67 3 weeks later!
Non of this is easy. ;)
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It seems that put a few year-incorrect parts on a Jap resto and the value is considerably decreased, and that's why I could never get into Jap restoration...too many anoraks!
My 1951 A7 (for example) has a 1953 tank on it, but few would know and even fewer would care, but then I don't do originality for the sake of it, and it isn't that critical to the value of an old British bike, generally speaking. I seem to be lucky though as I'm not plagued with originality buffs asking about the handlebar clamps or whatever.
Lola looks nice in her undergarments though.
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https://youtu.be/NFwP2huyNzg
no knicker pics though.
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Can't we have a bit of Billy Fury instead?
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Come on, we are in the early 70's here, surely some Led Zep! ;D
Or:
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=video&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjrzJ3SgPnsAhUAaRUIHdxWBZwQtwIwAHoECAUQAg&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DqZOGlgVldAs&usg=AOvVaw1ZFcOvhF3zNsb0qUeHbCUX
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suit yourself, I'm a lot further back than that............
same as tgr90. he's still waiting for someone to invent music :o
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The iffy carbs are bugging me, so thinking of adapting some Dellorto knock-offs to suit.
Very cheap and you can get a wide range of jets for tuning them.
Why?
Advantage is absolutely clear drillings in the bodies and they install on the very same mounting holes to the Keihin originals.
Disadvantage? A step into the unknown....
Could irritate a few on here too! :)
Could be interesting side project too.
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Dunno who it might irritate, but an old boy I know is now reduced to riding a Tiger Cub. He's a rider and machinist of many years experience but this Cub's carb had him tearing his remaining hair out, so he finally in desperation sprung fourteen quid for one of those Chinese carbs things off Ebay
Fitted straight on and other than a adjustment of the tickover speed it's been perfect straight out of the box.
Maybe he was just lucky, but at £14 it was worth a go.
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Thanks Rex.
I'll check the jet sizes tomorrow and any other fitting details, and if ok will buy a pair.
They are available in England for that money, so not a big issue.
Time will tell, fingers crossed.
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Bit of a rollercoaster ride on the honda.
Got the carbs, now on the bike and it runs, not that well but I need to try harder on the fine tuning.
however, the starter system (electric) is giving me some jip, and that side of the engine is apart again.
Seems to me the starter gear bearing (runs on the crankshaft) is well worn, the play is about 0.5mm.
Thus, awaiting a nice oilite bush/sleeve to arrive so I can machine to size and get rid of the excessive play. I've replace everything else, so I hope this is the root of the chattering noise and the slipping of the drive to start the motor.
Job for the weekend I hope while the wife watches the GP. :)
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I had a CD200 as a winter hack for years and reliability-wise it was the best bike I ever had, which was handy as I used it to commute to work. The electric start was marginal even when new so when the battery went west I used a cheaper non-electric start lower capacity battery and the kickstart.
When it came time to move the old girl on (2015) the bloke who had it said he was amazed that the starter motor etc still worked but then I'd never used it.
As he said, the sprag rollers usually develop flats and slip rather than grip, and the test is to lean the bike over and try using the electric start, as the rollers then tend to grip. New rollers are cheap enough though
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Interesting!
I have installed new rollers, springs and cups, cheap at £17 the set and real Honda parts too.
The drive chain similarly, all new, good and tight and cost a lot more, but Honda NOS, £33.
This bush is the last bit that keeps the rollers true to the gear journal and to the crank shaft.
Should be with me for the weekend I've been promised.
Found a local company too that make replacement oem spec gaskets individually, £7 each for the side cover, bargain.
I have to admit I've found, since installing the engine and all around it that I've miss-assembled the kick starter shaft so I only have 1/2 the travel... :-[
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After the world's longest wait for a simple bearing to arrive, it did and with some lathe work all back together. Bloody thing still rattles, so ordered a new Chinese replacement for £23 delivered, a last gasp to fix the starter.
Bike fired up awkwardly and ran very rich.
Back to basics tomorrow, valve clearances, ign timing and start again. If this fails, swopping the jets from the original carbs to the copies, and try, try, try , again.
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After 4 months thought I would have a Look-In to see what has happened on here...
I will not bore you with all the ups and downs that have gone on, would run into pages, but everything sorted now. A real sroy of 3 steps forward, 2 back (and further).
The Honda is now on the button (literally) with a skip load of parts and work.
Maybe a few pics to see if anyone is awake!
(https://i.postimg.cc/rmhzSn65/DSC0042.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bwXrHS5V/DSC0040.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ht9jCPWD/DSC0045.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Zq4qXt4r/DSC0044.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Nice work. :) What are you going to do with it now?
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Good question!
I have a very short snag list, just 3 things to fix, or get better, ie twist grip effort is far too high, but then it is decision time.
Keep it and actually use the thing (original goal)
Sell for a fortune.
Sell for break-even, a far more realistic outlook.
I sold the gold one far far to quickly, really should have thought longer about it.
Not really sure what the wife thinks, but local bikers round here are scary, and drivers more so.
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Looks good.
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Thank you, now today all finally finished as much as a classic ever is!
(https://i.postimg.cc/q7qmSrHY/DSC0078.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nhcZs8pc/DSC0050.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Lovely, now go ride and enjoy it.
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And that will be the hardest part!
But, you are totally right, but local traffic seem blind to bikes of any description!
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Yes Porsche drivers are the worst,