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Messages - geoffus

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1
Autojumble / Re: Excelsior stuff
« on: October 25, 2011, 04:56:30 AM »
 :)hi you could try this e-mail address  barns 2@iinet.au if you have no luck with  this I do have another e-mail address for him as I am not sure which one is current best of luck geoffus

2
 :) 33d6 is spot on with his comments I have seen many years long ago one Excelsior working but at the time it was raining hard and I was not in a position to follow and I don't think any of the water cooled two strokes really were the any good
regards the geoffus

3
British Bikes / Re: Amal Carb settings for 1955 BSA Gold Star B34
« on: September 02, 2010, 12:29:54 PM »
 :)   going through some of my old books for a BB 34 GS a TT Carby would be correct a 10TT9 is what specified but that is to run on 80 octane settings as follows choke size 1 5/32 main jet 360 needle jet .109 needle position 3  throttle slide 7  it would be a lot cheaper than a GP than more in keeping with a scrambler and much easier to tune as most scrambler's wanted low down power regards  geoffus

4
British Bikes / Re: Identification Float chambers BSA Goldstar
« on: June 30, 2010, 06:20:36 AM »
 :)looks good to me just what you want i should think     geoffus

5
British Bikes / Re: CORK CLUTCH HELP - BIG PORT
« on: May 26, 2010, 05:30:18 AM »
 :)it's a long time ago that I had a big port I don't remember any clutch problems  there is a key in the boss of one plate that if it fouls the end of the slot in the shaft it would pervade from engagement of the clutch
I can't remember what I the pump set at that I think it was the one drip about every 30 35 seconds one thing is certain the sight class should not be full you could take pump off and check that the oil hole is clear one other thing you could check is that the pump in the tank is not let in oil through into the engine there is a spring and a ball bearing in the hand pump check on that what I do remember is that it took according to the book 2  pints for 500 miles best of luck  geoffus

6
British Bikes / Re: AMAL TT CARB PROBLEM
« on: March 13, 2010, 02:33:11 AM »
 :)there are probably three main problems the first ones float level to high but you seem to have had a good look at this another problem float needle seating correctly and not allowing any weeping.but I think your main problem is down draft angle this means that when the bike is stationary pilot jet weeping is inevitable unless petrol is really pouring out its quite normal when the bike is on the stand front wheel on the ground back in the air you have increased this angle and therefore weeps a little more you could try putting ruler across the carby making sure the ruler is level you'll probably see that the float level is higher than the pilot jet until the float level drops it will drip i believe BSA made a tray to go over the magneto what I've found is to let the bike tick over for about 20 seconds and these drops afloat level just enough to stop the weepage  they brought a the GP2 to overcome this problem  or do as others and fit a concentric.
regards geoff

7
The Classic Biker Bar / docos
« on: February 07, 2010, 10:42:13 AM »
 :) if people are interested in documentaries try http://www.factualtv.com/documentary/Champions-Geoff-Duke Redmond and many more it also includes some very good cars
regards geoffus

8
Site Feedback / Re: New Forum Feedback.
« on: December 06, 2009, 08:15:55 AM »
 :D
Nigel nice to see you back online I checked most days but I don't very often logon which I expect is very naughty of me so I'm glad to see you back
regards Geoff

9
The Classic Biker Bar / us parts
« on: May 27, 2008, 04:21:07 PM »
 :)   was wondering if anybody could help me find sites in the US or spares or even a complete machine as the oz dollar is very close the US dollar it would seem sensible to advertise there but and have no idea how to go about this I am wondering if any one else has done this and can thay point me the right direction
regards geoff

10
The Classic Biker Bar / Re: coventry eagle silent superb
« on: February 28, 2008, 06:12:57 PM »
 :)
Hi  have a instruction and parts folder for a silent superb which i can scan through to you if you like to leave me a message with your e-mail address Ill send through to you ,this folder gives frame gearbox motor breakdowns and run instructions even their guarantee
regards geoff

11
The Classic Biker Bar / plateing
« on: November 26, 2007, 02:10:10 PM »
 ;) would anyone be interested in cheap plating.  This is not nickel or chrome but tin plate which looks very much like silver not as white nickel not as a blue has chrome, if anyone is interested.  This is nasty  free just one small snag I would not call it rustproof but you can experimenting more.  You must heat it but nevertheless, when finished, you can tip down the drain, with no side-effects to the environment

12
The Classic Biker Bar / Re: Epoxy adhesive on Cast Iron cylinder fins
« on: September 20, 2006, 03:52:18 PM »
Thanks for your email.  The wire is just like reinforcing in concrete.  Just a quick story: a barrel I did for a friend that had about three fins missing, 2 inches down to 1.5 using this method.  The bike was parked at someone else's place for 12 months and asked to be started once a month for about ten minutes.  Unfortunately, the guy was a 2-stroke man.  The valve-lifter was explained to him but not the advance and retard, and was left in retard.  (This man could kick start a Jumbo.)  And sure enough he did as asked but never advanced the timing.  So when picked up, the new exhaust pipe chromed was bubbled and a very funny shade of yellow and blue.  But the fins were as good as new.
   The stuff I use is good for 300 C, the paint 550 C, although paint these days is not as it was.  It always seems to be new and improved.  I think this means new cheap ingredients and improved profits.  So when I get anything that works, I try to stick to it.
Please let us knpow how everything works out,
Regards, Geoff  

13
The Classic Biker Bar / Re: Epoxy adhesive on Cast Iron cylinder fins
« on: September 18, 2006, 06:48:01 PM »
Yes you can, with a good resin. I use Plastibond here in Oz.  It's a bit like semi-liquid putty with a separate hardener.
1.  Clean edge of fins but don't file smooth.  Clean thoroughly with thinners two or three times.  You can if you want sandblast first as you have to repaint.
2.   Drill holes in broken edges of both fins either side, so that they roughly line up.  Drill 1 mil. or 1/32 holes in about 1/4 inch if possible.  Then get wire to fit in holes, making sure the wire is in the centre.  Araldite the wires into the holes.
3.   Put piece of plastic under bottom of fin (if more than one fin, one at a time).  I use old ice cream tubs, as this does not stick and this saves a lot of time in cleaning underneath.  Then fill with putty.  You may have to do this a few times because of small holes, etc. until satisfied.
4.   Respray and bake in oven to 180 C from cold for half an hour, let cool down slowly.  Leave door of oven open as this stinks.  Wife may not like this as it does linger.

The only way you can tell the difference is by running a fingernail up the fins.  You get ping clunk ping.  Never had any trouble with this arrangement - takes heat and doesn't crack.  If rough-cast, use a little sand in paint and brush on, then spray.  This saves you having to re-bore after welding.
Hope this helps,
Regards, Geoff      

14
The Classic Biker Bar / excelsior
« on: February 13, 2006, 06:52:44 PM »
 :)any excelsior manxman owner out there would like to hear from them

15
Identify these bikes! / Re: grandads bike no2
« on: December 15, 2008, 12:42:22 AM »
 :)   Ariel  twin port  about 1930  looks big so maybe 500cc  Ariel is readable on tank geoffus

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