classic motorcycle forum

Message for Jami in Finland, please email me again.  Vinnie / Spanner.

Have a 40 spoke Beaded Edge Front wheel complete with brake drum for sale. 
Do not know what it is from.
Rim outside diameter 20.25", width of rim 2".  Rim section is 'C' shaped, not Westwood section.
Condition is good.  Spokes good.
Email me for photos on mjheseltinesurf@hotmail.co.uk

Hi Albert,
I have a Raleigh toolbox
Its height is 9.25" at rear, 7.5" at front, 3" front to back & 5" left to right (deep).
I have rebuilt 2 Model 14's.  I tried this toolbox on my 14 and couldn't get it in as I had the chaincase on one side & the gearchange mechanism on the other so wouldn't say categorically that it will fit.
By MEASURING the space on the bike it should go in but would need to be fitted earlier in the build.
It is not very good condition, extra holes have been drilled, dented and some seams have come unsoldered.  However - to make a new one would be simple.  Unsweat the soldered seams and you have the best possible pattern for fabricating a new one.  Just need TIN plated steel and a big soldering iron.  I have soldered boxes like this and it is easy.  The leather flaps/doors are OK and need to be  riveted on with brass bifocated (split) rivets.
If that is any help, if you send me £5 I will mail it to you.  Also, if you email me on mjheseltinesurf@hotmail.co.uk I will send you some photos.

If you need any spares please let me know, I have some mechanical bits around engine/gearbox/clutch/magneto/rear engine plates/etc.  (No hub or chaincover). 

If you have the 'internal' oil pump (ie. not the external pump with the glass drip viewer) you may be interested in this article I wrote;

The internal oil pump is rubbish.  Both my bikes have this pump and were both seized solid .
On my first, which I did many 1000's of miles on, I had no pump and relied on the following successful mod.

I removed the big headed screws that blank off the oilways and removed the springs and balls from within. Now refit both screws only and blow into the oil feed connection - you should get air out of the outlet quill/special bolt - if not you are going to have to dismantle it to find the blockage.
Now put ONE ball back in and a light spring, say from a biro, and fit its screw.  The other screw is refitted without its innards.
Blow through the inlet again.  If it comes out through the quill OK you then suck, if nothing it is good news!  You have just made a one way valve for the oil.
If this didn't happen, swap the spring and ball into the other hole and repeat.
What you are doing is making a one way valve that lets crankcase DEcompression (as the piston goes up) suck oil in through the quill, the as the piston goes down it pressurises the crankcase and shuts the valve and oil supply off.  It will not be a mechanically pumped supply but this method does work. As I said, I did a lot of miles with this arrangement with absolutely no problem. 
When you are riding YOU will have to control the amount of oil going into the engine by how much you open the oil tap on the bottom of the tank.  I found the half open was about right but if I see a hill coming up I would open the tap a bit to increase the flow.
The hand pump is now unnecessary.  Just leave it screwed down, the engine will suck in all it needs.  The oil cock open half way should be adequate.  I remember when I did this mod on my first Raleigh I kept the cock fully open till I had smoke, then progressively closed it to get no/little smoke which would be the correct flow rate.  The exact position of the cock will obviously depend on the strength of your spring and oil viscosity.
I have done this mod to the Model 14 I am rebuilding now.

If you need any help/photos/advice feel free to contact me.

Vinnie.

Hello bsab,
I don't have a tank but have quite a bit of experience in 1926 248 side valve Model 14 Raleighs as I have renovated two.
To help you with the models, the Model 14 has a flat tank that slides within the top frame and the Model 15 has pannier fuel tanks bolted either side of the top frames with a nickel cover strap.  That is the most obvious difference.
You could try for parts, Mike Sleap, 020 85246310 or msleap@freenetname.co.uk  (he has some connection with a Raleigh Club).   If this is not much help try the Vintage Motorcycle Club library on 01283 495105 or 495102.    VMCC, Allen House, Wetmore Road, Burton on Trent, Staffordshire, DE14 1TR.  United Kingdom.
Tel:  00 44 (0) 1283 540557 Main Office
Tel: 00 44 (0) 1283 495103 Direct Line
Fax: 00 44 (0) 1283 510547

As I said, if I can help you out with practical rebuild info, I will.  I have a few spares for them.  Please contact me direct on mjheseltine@hotmail.co.uk

Best wishes,  Spanner.

Dear Salmon,  My first road bike was the 250 twin Talisman 2-stroke.  Can't remember much about it other than reliability was not too good.  I remember it smoked a lot which was normal for that engine (a bit like the Ariel Leader & Arrows).  I remember draining the crankcase of excessive oil about every month!! to control the smoke somewhat.
Don't suppose the reg no. is 111SNO, my old bike?
Good luck with the work,
Best wishes, Mark.

I have a broken cooling fin on my 1926 Raleigh.  Rather than risk having the piece welded/brazed back on, does anyone have any info or experience in using epoxy to do this job.  Years ago I epoxy'ed a steel sleeve into an exhaust port OK but that was a shrink fit as well.
Any help or info would be most welcome.  
Thank you.