classic motorcycle forum

And, by the way,,,, This is not a new generator... This is an original 3 brush 6 volt Auto lite generator.  I t has a newer voltage regulator on it.

Hello all-   I'm hoping someone can answer me this??   The original 1948 6 volt Auto lite voltage regulator had 4 connecting points.  A/F leads from generator- and B/T.  B went to battery and the T was used for generator light indicator I assume. My ? is this. The new generators sold for Indians now have only A/F/B.... Where is the wire for the indicator light attaching???
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks Bob

I JUST PUT NEW STOCK SILENCERS ON. THE EXHAUST IS FREE AND CLEAR.
I'VE HAD 2 STROKES FROM THE EARLY SIXTIES WHERE THE EXHAUST BECOMES PLUGGED FROM UNBURNED MIXTURE, AND IN FACT IT WAS COMMON PRACTICE TO REMOVE YOUR EXHAUST EVRY MONTH AND SOAK IT IN KERO… BUT THATS NOT THE PROBLEM HERE
THANKS THO

HI all-  Interested in any feedback. Pretty much done with an A50 I picked up awhile ago, or as far as i'm gonna take it. Its a good bike, original frame and engine and 85 % of parts. Starts first kick and runs well with great compression in each cylinder. Problem is….. It is running lean on the left cylinder only? It is a single carb with 2 inti 1 manifold. My first thought was rocker arm clearance. The exhaust valve is a little tight so most of the gas is being vaccumed out before combustion. Adjusted all valve clearance and still lean.?
My next thought, carb..
ANY THOUGHTS

Thanks
Bob

Hi- I am looking for an approx. length for 42-5886 front brake lever arm for my '62 A50. I am thinking the one presently on the bike is incorrect. Also an approx. front brake cable length and correct brake arm connection… meaning clevis pin or??? I have parts manual and service manual but it does not give an accurate depiction.

Thanks
Bob

Well Murdo---- No it is still on one cylinder. The left seal is gone badly… The entire crank case was full of oil from the clutch side. I havent had time to look at it any further. I have a 1962 BSA on the lift right now with the entire front end ripped off.
At this piont i'm thinking about taking the entire engine apart mainly to replace all seals, gaskets etc… The bike has been sitting since 1968, untouched so every seal and gasket on it has been dry long over.
Bob

All good stuff, you all R writing….. All in all it boils down to elimination. Glad to here the seal can be removed…… with out splitting cases. The clutch needs work anyways, so………. I will save the ring option for last, as i dont see that as my first answer. Thanks much for the input. Lucky the engine is fairly simple to begin with.
The bike is really in excellent condition for original.

I have a 1962 YD3 I picked up very recently.It is in excellent originol condition with only 4500 miles. Everything works. Has not been run(really) since 1968.
The bike is not running on the left cylinder. I have--
-Cleaned sealed tank & carb
-Ignition timing is dead on correct
-pionts set and good (both cylinders have great spark)
-cleaned carbon from exhaust
-tested coils by swithcing cylinders
-both cylinders have about 140lb's compression

The left exhaust leaks oil/fuel profusly at pipe muffler joint when you try to run bike, which makes sense as it is not firing….  Someone suggested it is the left crank seal, and that it is sucking iol in from the "wet" left clutch….

ANY THOUGHTS WOULD BE GREATLY WELCOMED*****  AND IS THE LEFT SEAL ABLE TO BE REMOVED AFTER THE CLUTCH BASKET IS REMOVED OR DO THE CASES HAVE TO BE SPLIT… LITERATURE ON THIS BIKE IS HARD TO COME BY AND ONLINE SHCEMATICS I HAVE FOUND DONT SHOW THE SEAL.
Thanks
Bob