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Messages - Oggers

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 11
1
British Bikes / Terminology
« on: September 20, 2022, 06:34:42 PM »
Remind me please - brain fade...When the manual says rotate the engine forward, what does than mean please?

2
British Bikes / Re: Removing the Mainshaft nut - clutch
« on: September 03, 2022, 09:56:13 PM »
Quite so Ian......I did indeed stick a foot on the brake pedal whilst trying in vain to loosen the nut. The clutch slipped.....The arm of the tool - basically a friction plate with an arm welded on - just bends at the weld. Heat I think....

3
British Bikes / Re: Removing the Mainshaft nut - clutch
« on: September 01, 2022, 01:06:04 PM »
Pretty sure I've had it off previously. Can't remember using Loctite, though that's not so say I did not use it....I have no rattle gun, nor impact driver. It's not only the nut, but also preventing the shaft from moving whilst applying Herculean torque to the nut. I'll get my blowtorch out.....

4
British Bikes / Removing the Mainshaft nut - clutch
« on: August 31, 2022, 02:31:50 PM »
Gents

The large Mainshaft nut - clutch end,  on my Ariel VB is absolutely stuck solid. I have the "special tool" which fits over the clutch centre, but that just bends when I apply torque to the the nut. I have to say it is plenty of torque too - courtesy of a long handled torque wrench. I don't really want to go at it even harder as I fear I may damage something... 

Advice welcome - heat from a blowtorch perhaps?

Many thanks   

5
British Bikes / Re: Tap, Tap
« on: August 22, 2022, 01:59:57 PM »
Ian - normally yes indeed, but I have witnesed similar a couple of times when clutch is also engaged. Plates seemed to be slack, sticking in/on the splines, or else not an even take up on pressure plate due to uneven spring tension. I seem to recall I fiddled about with the springs and maybe even possibly cleaned up the plates and splines, and it went away. Easy to eliminate at any rate.     

6
British Bikes / Re: Tap, Tap
« on: August 22, 2022, 08:27:44 AM »
If no noise when clutch is pulled in then perhaps the clutch plates themselves are  a wee bit loose and knocking against each other when the clutch is out. I have had this on a few old bikes, and it was simply a case of tightening up the clutch springs. 

7
British Bikes / Re: Primary chain lubrication
« on: August 11, 2022, 09:51:52 AM »
The intention is indeed to fix it properly. I am after an interim measure so I can ride about in this glorious weather. Oil is still present in the chaincase and the chain is lubed up with Motul chain spray. Interesting point about the grease acting as a seal.

8
British Bikes / Re: Primary chain lubrication
« on: August 11, 2022, 08:57:16 AM »
The idea being the heavy grease has a greater chance of staying where it is put. Oil on its own will simply fling off.   

9
British Bikes / Re: Carb leak
« on: August 10, 2022, 08:19:40 AM »
All the above is good advice. I would add

Obviously check float height. It is not necessarily quite as per the book as shut off point is dependent on a number of variables.
Are the ticklers themselves sticking?
Are the needle valves OK - no scoring etc. Viton tipped needle valves tend to perform better.
Needle valve housings can also be damaged. It doesn't take much for gas to pass between housing and valve.
 

10
British Bikes / Primary chain lubrication
« on: August 09, 2022, 03:29:27 PM »
Gents

As discussed previously, I have minor issues with pressed steel chaincases leaking chain lube oil. This is not for want of trying to seal things up, but they still drip after a run.

As an interim measure, and until I can resolve the root cause properly, one or two owners tell me they use heavy duty grease on the primary chain to reduce any leaks from the chaincase. Red n tacky Lucas grease was mentioned, the idea being that the grease adheres to the chain better than the recommended thinner oil, and being considerably thicker, has less propensity to leak from the chaincase. Some oil is also used but not as much - just to keep other things inside the chaincase lubricated - seals I think in come cases....

Thoughts welcome.     

11
British Bikes / Re: Judder on slowing down
« on: July 25, 2022, 04:30:41 PM »
Good point about crankcase/gearbox bolts and head steady - will check.   

12
British Bikes / Re: Judder on slowing down
« on: July 23, 2022, 10:20:52 PM »
Update. Primary chaincase was low on oil. This has improved matters but not completly cured it. Tank rubbers fine, wheels in line, final drive chain seems OK. Other thoughts - slack/no grease in the swing arm bearings perhaps?

13
British Bikes / Re: Judder on slowing down
« on: July 18, 2022, 12:01:19 PM »
R

I've subsequently been told that it could be primary chain too slack! As it happens, there is around 1/2 to 1" play which suggets it is OK. I'll measure more accurately though.Other things mentioned include clutch cush drive rubbers and rear wheel splines - if QD wheel.

14
British Bikes / Judder on slowing down
« on: July 17, 2022, 11:41:25 AM »
Gents

Bit of advice please. Triumph T120 judders slightly when coming off the throttle - especially at lower speeds. It is not severe, but perceptible nevertheless. Difficult to describe, but it is not a smooth transgression to standstill. When accelerating it seems fine though.

My thoughts

Clutch pressure plate needs adjusting. Perhaps not an even gap all the way round.
Clutch springs not equally tensioned
Carbs out of balance.

Anything else you feel I should check?

Any advice much appreciated as always   

15
British Bikes / Re: 1973 Bonneville exhaust headers
« on: July 12, 2022, 09:29:08 AM »
Never had any real issue with exhaust headers on the many Jap bikes I have had. Couple of broken studs, but replaced easily enough. Nuts can slacken off slightly, and where that happened I simply lock-nutted it. Personally I think they make for a decent, tight, compression fit with the hollow copper gaskets.

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