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Messages - JFerg

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106
Identify these bikes! / Re: Best & Lloyd oil pump
« on: May 09, 2011, 11:57:11 AM »
Howard,

Ever Onward has one very similar to that, albeit with a different pick-up arrangement on the barrel.  It is reputed ex-BSA, model not specified, and has a sight-bowl.  A similar thing is illustrated in Radco's book.

cheers,
JFerg

107
Identify these bikes! / Re: Australian Acme...how old am I?
« on: March 28, 2011, 12:27:59 PM »
A picture would be really helpful.....

108
British Bikes / Re: Norton girder fork
« on: February 28, 2011, 04:40:33 AM »
Settle down.  Think about what the dampers do and how they work.

They provide friction to damp out movement, but the last thing you want is stiction.   They want to be free-moving, yet offering firm and continuous resistance.  One of the best materials you can use for damper washers in the modern metric world is teflon.  So when using other materials, a smear of grease is good.

JFerg

109
Identify these bikes! / Re: Old French registrations.
« on: February 23, 2011, 09:49:45 PM »
Thanks, Mick, I reckon that nails it quite nicely; and excellent resource, too.

JFerg

110
Identify these bikes! / Old French registrations.
« on: February 23, 2011, 04:54:10 AM »
A friend of mine has a family photo, believed taken in France, possibly Alsace, of family members on a 1916/17 model 16C Harley with electric lights.  The registration number is 7567-P.  Can anyone glean any more info from that number?

Thanks,
JFerg

111
Identify these bikes! / What is this tank from?
« on: February 21, 2011, 10:13:10 PM »
I've had this for years, on the basis that it is the same pressing as used by New Imperial in the late twenties and therefore useful.  I presume that makes it as Birmingham product.  There is a separate oil tank with exit only, which means it was for a total loss lubrication system.  The gear quadrant "mounts" look like blanks, ie; appear never to have been tapped or have had studs on them, so however the gear change was arranged, it wasn't via a gate on the tank.  It looks like original paint, and the logo of the star and banner is quite distinctive.  There is no trace of lettering at all.  What's it from?

JFerg

112
British Bikes / Re: What do these terms mean - British bikes?
« on: February 12, 2011, 07:05:20 AM »
Further to 33d6's explanation, we need to remember that things evolve with need, and the evolution through the twenties was rapid.

My Model 6A New Imperial was "gentleman's racer" and intended purely for track work, with an alcohol only dog-ear JAP.  It had two foot brakes, one on either side, right foot rear, left foot front, leaving the right hand free for gear changes.  Even thinking about riding such an unconventional set up gives me the horrors.

And I doubt that we've answered Brownies questions fully and properly.

What is "tickling"?  Sure, it is raising the fuel level in the carb to provide a rich mixture at starting, but specifically it is the rapid repeated depressing of the spring loaded "tickler" button that protrudes through the float bowl.  We "tickle" until fuel flows either out the float overflow or around the carb air holes, showing that there's lots of fuel about.

JFerg

113
British Bikes / Re: Flat tank BSA oiling
« on: February 12, 2011, 06:50:33 AM »
Wetdog,

Send me the engine number and I should be able to date it.

JFerg

114
British Bikes / Re: Ever Onward
« on: February 10, 2011, 11:57:55 PM »
The proprietary engine business was big; JAP never offered complete bikes until they started making speedway machines.  Many of the restored vintage bikes that are called "JAP" are called such because no-one knows exactly what it really is/was, nor who built it.

Barr and Stroud claimed a few "interesting" references, including Brough Sup; but I suspect that Beardmore-Precision were the only ones to produce more than a prototype.

JFerg

115
British Bikes / Re: Flat tank BSA oiling
« on: February 10, 2011, 11:48:13 PM »
John,

Apparently there are two types of B&L pump; the big one and the little one.  Sounds like you have one of each.  I had the impression that the body castings were different, but it makes sense and would save a fortune in creating a "smaller" pump by simply reducing the bore. 

Early B&L were all the "large" type, notorious over-oilers, and the problem was reduced with the later "small" pump.  I will start to pull some apart and measure.

Thanks for the good guidance.

JFerg

116
British Bikes / Re: New imperial
« on: February 10, 2011, 11:43:38 PM »
James,

The NIOA is the place to start.

Things like gaskets and cables have to be made to suit, but neither are complex tasks.

After that, it depends on where in the world you are.

JFerg

117
British Bikes / Ever Onward
« on: February 10, 2011, 08:11:03 PM »
Further to Cardan's comment on another thread, a brief explanation of "Ever Onward".

Barr and Stroud made precision optical equipment in Glasgow, binoculars, rangefinders etc, and this business dried up in November 1918.  They cast around for something else to do, and took a license from Argyll Motors, a Glaswegian company building Glaswegian Peter Burt's single sleeve design into multi cylinder car engines.  B&S wanted to break into the proprietary motorcycle engine business of JAP, Sturmey Archer, Blackburne et al.  Their success was decidedly limited.

Ever Onward's engine was despatched complete with carb and magneto.  The original intention is unknown, and was certainly never realised, because the engine was still basically new when Warren obtained it in 1967.

Believing that the engine deserved to be more than a static exhibit, he built a vehicle for it.  It is a Norton frame with Douglas 'guards, but there are contributions from Cov. Eagle, Enfield, Levis, BSA, and sundry others unknown.  It is all early twenties and quite true in that respect.  Ever Onward is the result, emerging in 1968.  The "name" is a statement of fact, not a brand or slogan; it is "Ever Onward", not "the Ever Onward"

Purists are entitled to tut and disparage it as the bitzer that it certainly is.  Whether it is more or less of a bitzer than was produced by any and many of the small "makers" (or subsequent restorers) could be argued at length and does not matter.  To me, what matters is that one of the most technically interesting engines of the Vintage era is being seen and heard by a wide audience because the thing gets used as the various original makers intended.  Unusually for a flat tanker, it has decent brakes, so can and does get ridden in suburban traffic.

Sleeve valve technology has not had a lot of development when compared with poppet valves, but can by no means be dismissed as the work of crackpots.  Harry Ricardo was a great enthusiast, and to this day the most powerful spark ignition engines ever built, the Bristol Centaurus and Napier Lion aero engines, were single sleeve Burt engines.  Also, to this day we're still having trouble with poppet valves, despite the many millions of engineer-hours that have been applied to them over the last century.

JFerg

118
British Bikes / Re: E3L circuit question. Answered.
« on: February 10, 2011, 09:40:36 AM »
Congratulations, Rex, for being closest to the mark.

I adjusted the third brush and the problem vanished.  Further investigation showed that the brush holder had shed the brass stud moulded into it, plus the insulation around it, and that was shorting to frame.  Tomorrow I will either repair, which will be tricky, or make a new one from scratch.

cheers and thanks all.

JFerg

119
British Bikes / Re: Flat tank BSA oiling
« on: February 09, 2011, 12:52:39 AM »
The bike is in fact "Ever Onward", a fabulous machine if ever there was one.

The lubrication system is typical mid-twenties, automatic with a hand pump for use on long hills.

Oil feeds by gravity from the oil tank to the Best and LLoyd pump mounted on the timing case.  This pumps oil up, via the ineffectual needle valve regulator, to the sight glass, where the flow appears as splutters through the beak.  From there it is gravity fed into the crankcase.  Integral with the regulator is the hand pump.  This is pressed down to prime, pumping by spring action when the toggle catch is released.  Although reputed to have come off a BSA, I am now fairly confident that it is a B&L item.  It's awfully similar to the one shown in Radco's book.  Radco further shows the truncated needle, so I am thinking that's not the culprit either.

I accept the two stroke oil argument, but my problem is that the stuff runs everywhere.  I don't burn that much of it, but leave a trail...

Barr and Stroud recommended "Shell TT", which is anyone's guess for SAE rating, but as a 1920's engine oil it would have been far heavier cold (which is how Ever Onward drinks it) than any modern 50 weight.

A fellow sleeve valve zealot and multiple Minerva/Knight owner runs 50wt in his cars.  They blow no smoke and the exhausts are dry, but they are wet sump engines, not total loss.

I **think** I have attached some pictures, but can't be too sure....

JFerg

120
British Bikes / Re: Flat tank BSA oiling
« on: February 06, 2011, 09:11:36 PM »
Thanks, John.

Further investigations make me think that although the pump may have come from a BSA, it is in fact a B&L with the adjuster dial on the end of the regulator needle.  This needle has a blunt, squared, end, and does not actually have any regulating effect at all.  Makes me think that it should have a longer taper.

I'm running modern two stroke oil in it, and despite the huge consumption of the stuff, the exhaust shows only very slight smoke.  I will change to a straight 50; it's a good point that the oil is always cold, so a heavier oil would reduce consumption.

The final, compounding, detail is that the engine is a 500cc Barr and Stroud sleeve valve.  I'd expect oil consumption to be higher than for a poppet valve engine, but it shouldn't be that much higher, and certainly shouldn't belch liquid oil out the exhaust.  The only other sleeve valve engines about are Knight double sleeves in cars.  These are not total loss of course, but are a more complex lubrication challenge, and their exhausts run dry.

Wear is almost non-existent in sleeve valves due to the huge wear surfaces, and the valve action which spreads the lubricant very effectively.  RAF experience with Bristols (which use the same single sleeve design) gave something like 10,000 hours between overhaul, versus 1500 hours for poppet valved engines.  I know the full history of my bike, and am confident that excess wear is not an issue.

Thanks for your help.

JFerg

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