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Messages - R

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31
British Bikes / Re: Ambassador Series 1
« on: January 10, 2024, 09:12:32 PM »
If the seller is quoting "import duties" or "customs fees" then they are using ebays global shipping program.
Which is a complete rip off  !!!

May have been fine back when nothing was flying during covid.
But now all is back to "normal", way past its use by date.

I had a little booklet mailed to me recently, came by Royal Mail.
Was quite inexpensive.

Ask that supplier if they will post by Royal Mail ?
Seems some Oz suppliers have books posted out here in bulk, can be quite competitive.
Worth hunting about ?

32
British Bikes / Re: Ambassador Series 1
« on: January 08, 2024, 08:53:37 PM »
10+ years betwixt replies
Business is brisk ....

I'm a little surprised that Ambassador doesn't have a web page or 2 on the brand.
Easily done, and helps bring like minded fiends together.
Sp deliberate !




33
British Bikes / Re: 1920s/30s carbs
« on: December 21, 2023, 09:17:26 AM »
the little sod seems to need to be flooded in order to keep running .

That might suggest the fuel level is a bit low ?
A cold start may need some choke however - hence the tickling.
But obviously that need should go away once warmed up.

In the 1930s, if you ordered your new (Deluxe) Enfield with a magdyno, you also got tubular steel forks. !
Amals appear to have made upright carbs with suitably long necks, at some point.

34
British Bikes / Re: 1920s/30s carbs
« on: December 21, 2023, 03:03:58 AM »
The body and floatbowl appear new, the fittings are not.
Presumably transferred from the old one ?

35
British Bikes / Re: 1920s/30s carbs
« on: December 21, 2023, 03:00:17 AM »
I'm in the throes of fitting what appears to be a brand new brass one to a 30's RE
An Allparts one, if I'm not mistaken.

Note the black line for the fuel level.
Dunno where I found that info, but seems suitable for the task ?

As a backup plan B, have a looong inlet spacer that would suit a conventional upright amal,
and thus avoid the magdyno (which was optional on some models)


36
British Bikes / Re: 1920s/30s carbs
« on: December 20, 2023, 09:35:23 PM »
And they couldn't mount the tank any higher.  !

Careful attention must be paid to float/fuel height.
Or flooding and woeful fuel consumption will be the bane of your life...

37
British Bikes / Re: royal enfield 355 1929
« on: November 30, 2023, 10:25:00 PM »
If you can get it to run for ~5 secs Geoff, then your basic settings must all be in the ballpark, as they say.

Without knowing this exact model, in the slightest, my advice would be to tickle it and tickle it and tickle it
some more, esp once it fires, see if that makes a difference. ?

And/or drop the air slide down some more - it will likely need a good dollop of choke for a cold start.
Esp after 80+ years of hibernation !
Might even need the air slide down to its maximum, for a short time anyway.

We assume you have inspected and thoroughly cleaned the carb at some previous point.
Any gummy deposits or traces of corrosion inside need to be banished, forthwith !

Have fun !
We look forward to a pic of its 1st outing ...

39
British Bikes / Re: Australian-made motorcycles in the 1950s - help please
« on: November 21, 2023, 09:59:29 PM »
It had been restored from a very original machine.

Do we spot a tinge of regret uttered there ?

And is that red likely to have been anything like original.
Or owner preference - as is so often the case these days ...

40
British Bikes / Re: Australian-made motorcycles in the 1950s - help please
« on: November 18, 2023, 07:51:46 AM »
Note the XXA etc engine number (on the rego label).
Caught my eye ...

41
British Bikes / Re: Australian-made motorcycles in the 1950s - help please
« on: November 18, 2023, 07:01:31 AM »
No aussie made content !

Cute little Sun autocycle on FB
Dunno where the Sunbeam reference comes into it ... (no option to select Sun ?)

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/959836385298085/

Entries elsewhere would suggest this is the full Deluxe model.
You got the extra front suspension AND a fluted engine cover.

42
British Bikes / Re: 1910s/1920s Silver paint?
« on: October 19, 2023, 12:18:39 AM »
Aye - thats good stuff too.
Non-destructive to most surfaces.

The beauty of phos acid though is that what you see is what you get.
You can wipe/rinse it off, and the process stops right there.
It also passivates the surface to some extent.

Whereas molasses exposed surfaces need some sort of treatment to prevent them rusting again, almost instantly.
And doesn't seem to enhance the paint either ?

43
British Bikes / Re: 1910s/1920s Silver paint?
« on: October 18, 2023, 10:19:02 PM »
It would still be worth trying a wipeover of phosphoric acid* on that tank.
*Industrial strength (50%), not coca cola strength.

Its amazing what comes back to life with all traces of rusty brown removed.
Someone with a rusty old Napier reported the pinstripes on the now green bonnet were visible again...

44
British Bikes / Re: 1910s/1920s Silver paint?
« on: October 17, 2023, 01:41:42 AM »
Can see why you might want the tank more silver-like though.

https://cybermotorcycle.com/gallery/classics-t/images/Triple-H-1922-0858.jpg

45
British Bikes / Re: 1910s/1920s Silver paint?
« on: October 16, 2023, 11:44:05 PM »
Oh it's gorgeous! If it were mine I wouldn't paint it at all...

Aye - I'll second that
They are only original ONCE !

A gentle wipeover with phosphoric acid will remove the rusty bits and brighten up the original paint.
and then (once washed off and dry) a wipeover with Linseed Oil will preserve and protect and waterproof the paint.
Phos acid is a major ingredient in Coca Cola, so is not exactly dangerous.
And Linseed Oil was a major ingredient in early enamel paints.
It may take a day or 3 to dry off, and may pong  a bit for a while. (do outside)
But can be polished (gently) once dry.
Should give a superb original paint bike....
A rare find indeed.

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