classic motorcycle forum

Ah yes, I may have glossed over the difference in significance between "the" and "their".
Silly of me, won't happen again.

The ignition timing is somewhat important, as you say - your engine life depends on it. !
If it doesn't get full advance with the lever all the way up, you need to correct that, pronto.

You need to have a study of its action on the points in the magdyno.
Normally, pulling the lever all the way up gives full advance.
And most motoring can be done like this.
You only need to let the lever back down part way for starting, and periods of idling.
It will get hot, really hot, if the timing isn't advanced enough at 'speed'.

The action on the choke needs the top nut tightening, to prevent it moving by itself.
If tightening doesn't work, you need to go into the assembly order of the bits, and make sure it does. Running with the choke partly on is not good, not good at all....
These are the biggies for now.

Have fun !

Not knowing anything about the later Excelsiors, an online search found only this,
said to be a 1955 R4 Roadmaster with 8E engine of 197cc.
The swingarm frame is listed  to have first appeared for 1954.
Look familiar ?  If not, we will probably need a pic of your bike to say much more.

None of that impressive list are a manual for a 1931 though, which is what d33 was referring to ?

But like many companies of that time yes parts were bought in did any company make everything?

Whole books have been writ on this subject ?
I think BSA alone at the time had the foundries and drop forges and presses etc to make much more than most makers.  But the list of oem equipment still included Amal, Smiths, Lucas, Dunlop, Ferodo Champion so 'everything' is a rather nebulous concept.
Honda owned Keihin (carburettors) , so they were one rung further up the ladder.
Indian back in the teens were a huge manufacturer compared to everyone else,
but they went from having their own foundries to having it all done outside.
If the foundries got ahead with production, they then had nothing to do - but if it was outside they could go on to other things and the employees weren't idle. (?).
Wasn't it said that Broughs were the ultimate bike - and not one jot was made by them.
Villiers supplied a heck of a lot of makers, concentrate on what you are good at ?

Sounds like you have everything well in hand, have fun !

http://simplywizard.co.uk/folders/pre1940/prewarl3/31c12196.htm
http://classic-motorbikes.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/11564.jpg

What sort of details are you after, and what are you missing ?
Quite a few of these seem to have survived.
As you might expect, being a tough little Villiers and a popular little economy make in tough times.
(Don't assume restored bikes are always correct in every detail, as I'm sure everyone knows).

3mm copper would give me 0.5mm clearance. Is this enough?

Does that mean the piston protrudes up proud/into the head by 2.5 mm  ?
That seems unusual ?  Correct piston fitted ?

The engine still seems to be running hot but I do appreciate other comments which suggest the engine is not running but the right hand pipe of the 2 into 1 is well blue!

If one pipe only is turning blue, it suggests your engine is not running equally well on both cylinders.

Put a dab of oil on each pipe up near the exhaust ports, and when you start it from cold, watch which side boils the oil into smoke first.  They should go together. Waving your hand near the pipes can also detect if there is a temp difference between them on startup - but is usually a good recipe for getting burnt fingers. !

If one cylinder is only running poorly, your engine could well be getting too hot as one cylinder labours to do all the work. This really needs to be sorted before heading off anywhere, or to a rally.

Can you switch the coil around, so it fires the cylinders opposite to how it is now ?
If the problem switches sides, you know there is a problem on the electrical side of things.

I missed the start of this, are your point(s) correctly set, and correctly timed.
And the ignition advance side of things correctly advancing and retarding ?

If the carby flooding is the problem, and you can get it to start, the usual process here is to give it some throttle, and see if you can rev your way out of trouble ?
Too much fuel needs lots of air....

If its cutting out due to being too lean to run when cold though, it may need some choke applied.

Removing and inspecting the spark plug in either of these scenarios often helps.
If the plug is damp or wet with fuel, you know it has too much.
If its dry as a bone, its not getting enough.