classic motorcycle forum

Hi. I have a '69 Bonneville boxed up in a 1000 pieces just outside Northport, Long Island. The bike is of sentimental value and I have been trying to find someone to put it back together for me but have come up blank.

Does anyone out there know of anyone who might be interested in such a challenge? I would of course pay fairly, and given there's no real time constraint here, wondered if maybe it would be a great project for a skilled amateur who could use a little extra cash. Though any reasonable pro outfit would also be considered.

All suggestions hugely appreciated.

Rawkins

I suggest you ask in either the 'Triumph' or 'British Motorcycles in General' sections of the BritBike forum (link, below) if you haven't already done so, as there could be someone not too far from you that might be interested but I won't name him.

If he wants to help that's for him to say.

http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary

I have at the moment the brown/blue & brown/white to ammeter left

rec/reg black wire to ammeter left

I assume you mean one of those two is on the right?

Brown/blue and brown/white connected to the same terminal simply can't be correct.

It would be more helpful if you could describe the ammeter terminals as 'positive' and 'negative' rather than 'left and right'.

Edit: Or, with the brown/blue and brown/white connected that indicates a discharge when the ignition and lights are switched on then the ammeter terminal with the brown/blue is the 'battery' terminal and the other is the 'switch' terminal. 

thought I had cracked it so am I to understand I'm getting a false reading on the ammeter ? I have 14.9 volts across the batt. terminals

ammeter is responding to engine revs just fluctuates on zero on tick over & to + when revved

 do I need to re route one of the 2 loom wires to the ignition switch ?

PS glad I didn't cancel my acetylene lamp conversion kit just yet !

I don't know what is going on there but the diagram below is, I think, correct for your T100 and shows how the brown/blue and brown/white would normally connect to the ammeter and the original brown/white charge wire (arrowed) from the rectifier is shown going to the ignition switch (although the exact connection position isn't important as long as it is on the switch side of the ammeter). 


 

Hi Rex with engine running with main/dip on when  revved the ammeter just stays at -4 till I switch to pilot then the ammeter stays at 0

That suggests the ammeter is working.

I am still getting a 14+ volts reading across the battery terminals?

Could you confirm that the reg/rec negative is only connected to brown/white and not still connected to battery negative in some way?

Here is the wiring diagram for a similar Podtronics reg/rec with an ammeter.

The Lucas reg/rec connections for positive earth will be the same as shown with the reg/rec negative wire connected to the ignition switch side of the ammeter   

https://www.oldbritts.com/17_17104.html

my rectifier is a new Lucas single phase 120 watt unit with a Lucas 47205 stator

How is the "rectifier" (presumably you mean regulator/rectifier) connected?

For the ammeter to show 'charge' the reg/rec negative wire (assuming positive earth?) must be connected to the ignition switch side of the ammeter which is the side with the brown/white wire. 

Quote from: Grunt on December 19, 2019, 05:44:47 PM

I’m also assuming by looking at the Andover Norton parts drawing and your comment about moving it to one side that the central spacer tube isn’t strong enough to be used as a drift to drive the first bearing out.

It's the same ID as the bearings so you can't really use it as a drift as there's nothing to get hold of. Once one bearing has moves a bit the tube becomes free so you can get at the further bearing easily enough.

I'd recommend getting hold of a decent workshop manual - the "official" Norton Villiers one if it's a Commando.

The procedure for removing the drum front wheel bearings is given in section H9 of the factory manual where the spacer tube is intended to be used (along with the wheel spindle) to drive out both bearings.

I don't know if the rest of the bike (assuming there is one) is a Commando or not in which case getting hold of a hard copy manual would be something of a waste of money and only contain the same information as the online manual in the link I've posted.   

We  have been confused too! By the information in the parts books

Item 20 is clearly a screw fitted into the underside of the carburettor body hence a threaded tapping in the underside.

And we have studied a number of manuals , none of which tell us that the pilot jet is hidden away behind the pilot air screw.

Unless it's a 2-stroke or very early 4-stroke Mk1 Concentric then it would normally have the pressed in pilot bush which can be seen when the pilot air screw has been removed (RH image, below and which often becomes blocked see Bushman's link) and NOT the item 20 pilot jet.

http://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/Amal-Carburettors/Amal-MK1-Concentric-Hints-and-Tips/How-it-Works-and-Part-Names
"On most 4 stroke models no pilot jet is fitted, but a pilot bush is inserted in the continuation of the pilot air adjusting screw passage."

http://amalcarb.co.uk/rebuilding-mark-1-concentric-carburetter

http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html

It is not a premier carb.
The wassel carb however does have the premier type adjustable pilot jet  but fares no better (worse in fact)  hence it was taken off again and the original refitted.

The Amal Premier and Wassell Evolution carbs have removable pilot jets in the same position as the pilot bush which can be adjusted by fitting either a larger or smaller jet.

There is no screw adjustment so they should be screwed fully home and the idle mixture adjusted using the pilot air screw.