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Messages - L.A.B.

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31
British Bikes / Re: T140 regulator/rectifier replacement
« on: July 14, 2019, 10:08:46 PM »
Quote from: Eedward on July 14, 2019, 09:59:24 AM
were there any benefit over the original setup, eg starting/running etc,

As iansoady said, unless the existing charging system is faulty then you are unlikely to notice any difference in starting and running.


Quote from: Eedward on July 14, 2019, 09:59:24 AM
and how easy/hard are they to fit?

(Positive earth T140V)
A simple matter of disconnecting (or removing) the rectifier and Zener diode, and, depending on where the box is to be mounted, connecting the four reg/rec box wires to the existing wiring.
These boxes normally have two yellow 'AC' wires, any one of which should be connected to the alternator stator output green/yellow and the other yellow to stator white/green.
A red (positive) connects to harness red/battery positive and, usually black (negative) connects to the harness brown/blue negative wire.   

Quote from: Eedward on July 14, 2019, 09:59:24 AM
My bike starts fairly well, only a few kicks needed, though I think would benefit from a card carb set up, as it doesn't always tick over when up to temp, unless the tick over is raised a little.

If they are the original Amal Concentric Mk1 carbs then the slides/bodies are likely to be well worn out by now in which case they will be almost impossible to keep in tune for more than a short while or maintain a steady idle without constant attention.

32
British Bikes / Re: Understanding historic threads
« on: July 12, 2019, 10:24:39 PM »
First, it must be understood that not all British threads are "Whitworth".

Whitworth (or BSW) is only one type of British Standard thread used on British motorcycles.

Quote
I’ve purchased a Witworth screw thread pitch measure gauge and measured the thread on the old studs, which appears to be 26G.

26 threads per inch (TPI) is more likely to be CEI/BSC (Cycle Engineers Institute later British Cycle Thread) which is not a Whitworth thread and CEI/BSC is a common thread found on British motorcycles.

Quote
The diameter of the stud is 11mm.

I suggest you try to keep to Imperial measurements so 11mm is probably going to be 7/16".

Other threads commonly found on British motorcycles are BSF, BA and BSP, plus BSA also used some of their own special threads.

These websites should be of some help in understanding British threads:

http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/~psc/spanner_jaw.html#Background
https://britishfasteners.com/threads/index.html
   







33
British Bikes / Re: T140 strange oil leak
« on: July 12, 2019, 04:39:07 PM »
Quote from: Eedward on July 12, 2019, 04:13:02 PM

Sorry, yes, it's an S reg = 1998 T140V, a positive earth model.

1978.


Quote from: Eedward on July 12, 2019, 04:13:02 PM
There is no breather from the exhaust rocker cover anywhere, just the crank breather where it exits behind the barrels on the left.

Yes, for a 1978 T140V that's normal as I previously described. The T140E, also T140D and later T140 models had the exhaust rocker-box breather connection, not 'V'.


Quote from: Eedward on July 12, 2019, 04:13:02 PM
It does chuff a little smoke on over run, which suggest worn valve guides or rings ?

Probably, but could carry on like that for ages. 


Quote from: Eedward on July 12, 2019, 04:13:02 PM
Though why would oil, not just fumes, be exiting from the breather behind the head stock?

More likely it is being forced up the tube from the engine breather connection so it sounds as if that pipe joint is not secure and could be leaking?


Quote from: Eedward on July 12, 2019, 04:13:02 PM
Could it be pressurising the oil in the frame, A - because there is no exhaust rocker breather, and/or B - because the valve guides/bores are worn, and therefore sending it out the frame breather that way, along with some oil ????

I wouldn't have thought so. If there is any pressure then it's probably coming from the engine breather.


Quote from: Eedward on July 12, 2019, 04:13:02 PM
Also, where does the exhaust rocker cover actually breath from,

A 'V' would breathe through the exhaust pushrod tubes to the crankcase same as the inlet rocker box does through the inlet pushrod tube, not that there is much breathing taking place in the rocker-boxes just that the exhaust rocker box is a convenient place to have the breather to frame connection on the E model. 



Quote from: Eedward on July 12, 2019, 04:13:02 PM
as my last 1981 T140V didn't have a breather there either?

Unless it was 1981 registration, T140V production ended in 1978 so a 'V' can't be later than 1978 model year.





34
British Bikes / Re: T140 strange oil leak
« on: July 12, 2019, 09:06:00 AM »
Quote from: Eedward on July 12, 2019, 07:34:00 AM
All is fairly well, apart from a serious short when the neg terminal wire touched the frame and burnt out 2 wires. A pain, though a fairly easy fix.

1979 is the model year they changed to negative earth electrics so are you sure it's a 1979 model? 


Quote from: Eedward on July 12, 2019, 07:34:00 AM
What has me scratching my head is an oil leak. An oil leak I get, it's a Bonnie. It's where it is coming from that really puzzles me. There is a fairly constant drip/dribble from the bottom of the head stock, which does not make sense !
I get it's an OIF model, though the max oil level is much lower than where it is coming from, and I don't understand how it gets there, to then leak out, over pretty much everything, as the wind does a great job in covering pretty much everything behind where it leaks from.

The T140 frame oil reservoir has a breather vent immediately behind the headstock between the plates and should have a hose connecting it to the exhaust rocker-box on T140E models (or a connection to the atmospheric engine breather on earlier T140V models) so the oil could be coming from there? 


35
British Bikes / Re: Triumph T120 engine number
« on: April 06, 2019, 10:29:15 AM »
Quote from: Rex on April 05, 2019, 09:23:36 PM
It's a 1973 model-year too.

'G' is 1972 model year. 'NG' is build date October(N) 1971 as 1972 model year T120 production started at HG 30870, July(H) 1971.

Quote from: mini-me on April 06, 2019, 09:44:49 AM
As for the rest the meridan strike/workers crap out/ it was a total balls up, they probably destroyed the records out of spite/or never kept any/or were pissed [on or off] at the time they stamped the numbers, or maybe one bloke stamped numbers,the other did the letters and the work experience kid wrote it down.

The Meriden workers would have no reason to destroy the production records of what became the Meriden Co-Operative!

The production record for frame NG ?xxx? almost certainly exists - if legitimate and should be held by the VMCC and TOMCC.
The engine number, however, is unlikely to be a 'factory' number.   


36
The Classic Biker Bar / Re: Help needed with engine displacement size ??
« on: February 11, 2019, 07:17:00 PM »
Quote from: Jonny The Goat on February 11, 2019, 06:23:46 PM
I have measured the bore at 68.5mm and the piston from its very bottom of stroke to very top of stroke travels 75mm. According to the online calculator I used it is a 276cc ? Have i got this right ?

Yes.


Quote from: Jonny The Goat on February 11, 2019, 06:23:46 PM
With the angled top on the piston does this have any bearing.

No.

37
Identify these bikes! / Re: Any ideas?
« on: January 12, 2019, 09:25:04 AM »
Definitely a Royal Enfield (Meteor Minor?/Super Meteor?/Constellation?).

http://www.vintagebike.co.uk/pictures/royal-enfield-constellation/#.XDmyU83godU

https://classic-motorbikes.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/triumph_t21.jpg




38
British Bikes / Re: bsa lightning
« on: December 04, 2018, 10:50:33 PM »
Quote from: marty 31 on December 04, 2018, 09:29:21 PM
its blue box, the exact kit you have kindly shown, the exact same coils etc

You say "coils"? I assume you mean the single dual output coil as shown in the picture and not two separate single output coils?

If you do actually mean two separate single coils then how are they wired?


Quote from: marty 31 on December 04, 2018, 09:29:21 PM
the modern type regulator/rectifier dosent seem to have a makers name on it, these modern add ons are all a good idea but bypass the makers manual,

Does charging system appear to be working normally? Have you checked the voltage (both battery and charging)?

Quote from: marty 31 on December 04, 2018, 09:29:21 PM
another thought is could the earth on the coils be maybe not good enough? as they are not earthed direct from the fixing because they had to be cable tied to the frame and couldn't be fixed to it,

According to the Micro-Power instructions (below), only the (+) terminal (of the dual coil) has to be earthed (the coil body is plastic) and only if positive earth.

http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT00281.pdf


39
British Bikes / Re: bsa lightning
« on: December 03, 2018, 10:20:22 PM »
Quote from: marty 31 on December 03, 2018, 09:51:14 PM

its boyer ignition with a duel small modern type coils
 which I assume is 12 volt as the rest of the bike, its a lot of years since I messed with brits but to me the spark always looked small,

Which Boyer ignition?
The only Boyer ignition to use the miniature coils is the digital (blue box) Micro-Power ignition.

If it is the Micro Power then it would normally have one dual output 12V miniature coil.

 


Other Boyer systems such as Micro-MkIII, Micro MkIV, (both black box) and Micro Digital (red box) must use conventional coils, normally either two 6V coils connected in series or one conventional 12V dual output coil.





Quote from: marty 31 on December 03, 2018, 09:51:14 PM
it also has a management box,

What make/type of "management box"? I assume you mean a regulator/rectifier?




40
British Bikes / Re: bsa lightning
« on: December 03, 2018, 07:13:56 PM »
Quote from: marty 31 on December 03, 2018, 07:03:34 PM
the bike runs on electronic ignition and is timed bang on, so next try is going to be new 12 volt coils, does anybody agree and advise this?

As it has "electronic ignition" (which make/type?) then it's more likely to require two 6V coils (connected in series or one 12V dual coil) for best performance.


Quote from: marty 31 on December 03, 2018, 07:03:34 PM
or am I just wasting just more hard earned money?

Possibly.

41
British Bikes / Re: T 100 490cc 1968
« on: September 26, 2018, 02:11:06 PM »
https://montysclassicmotorcyclesshop.co.uk/triumph-bsa-fork-oilseal-holder-tool-61-6017--1964-73--3ta-t100-tr6-t120-uk-made-751-p.asp

42
British Bikes / Re: bsa lightning
« on: September 25, 2018, 12:33:36 AM »
Quote from: marty 31 on September 24, 2018, 10:44:00 PM
after looking at the parts list, the heat spacer looks more like a thick gasket, would that be right?

I'm not sure but if they were then the originals could have been an asbestos composite material which you wouldn't necessarily want and probably aren't available now.


Quote from: marty 31 on September 24, 2018, 10:44:00 PM
or as I was expecting would it be a proper spacer? ie maybe 10-15mm thick or so?

The thicker the better but I don't think the studs would be long enough for ones 10-15mm thick and the 70-7821 spacers available are thinner.

43
British Bikes / Re: bsa lightning
« on: September 23, 2018, 05:57:49 PM »
Quote from: marty 31 on September 23, 2018, 05:46:18 PM
also look at my parts list and try and get spacers,

There should also be an O-ring (622/101) on the carb side of each spacer.
https://www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/bsa/bsa/a50-a-a65/concentric-carburetter



44
British Bikes / Re: bsa lightning
« on: September 23, 2018, 03:31:25 PM »
Quote from: marty 31 on September 23, 2018, 10:55:15 AM
one thing that has been pointed out is there is no heat spacers between the carbs and manifold, just a gasket, could this be the problem?

Yes, it could be, or at least the lack of heat spacers won't be helping matters so I suggest you fit them because they should be there (70-7821 according to the parts list).

https://www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/bsa/bsa/a50-a-a65/1969/category/313-69-cylinder-barrel-valves


Quote from: marty 31 on September 23, 2018, 10:55:15 AM
or would dropping the needle in the carbs one (last) notch help?

The Lightning needles should be at the No.1 weakest position (clip in the top groove) according to the '69 - '70 factory manual.

45
Identify these bikes! / Re: Grandfathers Bike
« on: September 13, 2018, 05:39:43 PM »
Raleigh?

https://www.i-bidder.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/richard-edmonds-auctions/catalogue-id-ibri10022/lot-5b6422e2-2052-4534-8dc7-a44a00be10e6

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