classic motorcycle forum

Well you could read the instructions for checking the timing, which is set by altering the points gap.
It is done this way to ensure that the points open with the flywheel magnets in the correct position relative to the coil stator to get the best possible spark.

http://comet-restorations.uk/gallery/bima_instructions_1956.pdf

I  would have expected the engine to fire even if the timing is slightly out so would suspect you have no spark under compression.

I personaly would throw that can of easy start in the bin, before it damaged an engine.

Yes they can be great fun,

I was with my father when we found it, as he had one on a tandem that he and my mother used as back up transport before I was born he got it.

The NSU Quickly came from the same place the same year and I still have it on the road.

Why do you want to get the probes in through the slots ?

Measure continuity on the each wire to the mag backplate. one wire will go to the points and condenser so if the points are open there will be a high ohms reading on the meter (turning the mag over assuming the points are clean and making good contact should see the meter alternate from high to low ohms readings), the other wire will go to the generating coil and give a low ohms reading.

It looks like there are only 2 wires coming out of the mag, you should be able to see which one is from the points through the apertures in the flywheel. Having worked on cars you should then know which coil terminal the points connect to.

If you can't see it use a meter to check which wire goes to the points (easy unless you have done something strange with the condenser ).

Would love a small AJS as they were made a stone throw away from me, but I like the light-weight bikes.

Not the only one to like small bikes, I have quite a few cycle motors and NSU Quickly’s hidden away,plus a 250 Model 14 A.J.S awaiting restoration that I may never get to.

Still using a 1952 32cc Berini and a 1960 Quickly that we have owned for over 40 years.

I am not planning on painting the wheels yet, but will need to do the tank once it is repaired and the guards will need to be done to match.

There is no sign of blue paint on my frame but it has been stripped and painted in the past.

The blue and cream paint does look nice though as on this one.

https://drogakaszubska.pl/pojazdy_NI11B.htm

My brakes are 7" front and rear, bike looks to be right except for the mufflers and mudguards.

Definately a Model 11B.

Engine frame and gearbox numbers are correct according to Chas Lipscombe, engine and gearbox numbers date it to December 1930.
My plan is to get it back on the road and use it .

Luckily it's reg number is still live with the DVLA and it came with it's old RF 60 showing its owner history back to Aug 1938.

As found picture timing side, before loosely re fitting the parts taken off for storage.
Mufflers I think are later, you can still buy an almost identical one today.
It is cleaning up nicely having had a coat of waxy preservative.