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Messages - lxmlvll

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16
European and Other Bikes / Re: NSU 501 Information
« on: January 11, 2008, 12:51:34 PM »
Hello Jerry and Rod.
I have just posted about an ex Luftwaffe machine which I recently aquired, and I think the engine design may be quite similar to that on your own machines.
Perhaps you could help me in my quest for information and advice?
I would be very happy to hear from you both.
Best Regards,
Alex.

17
European and Other Bikes / Ex-Luftwaffe NSU
« on: January 11, 2008, 12:37:09 PM »
Hi Guys,
I recently aquired a NSU which the previous owner had bought over 20 years ago which he had never tried to start and had stood in a museum for some time before that.
It reputedly saw service at a anti-aircraft battery in Northern France, the owner believing the year of manufacture to be 1937 and the capacity to be 500cc.
The machine carries a reg. no. WL742161 with frame and engine numbers 10986** and 3375** respectively, and looks very similar to the NSU OSL501 model, which I believe was produced from about 1930 onwards.
Information about these machines appears to be difficult to find, a Google search yielding less than 20 results with all of these being in German.
If anyone could point me towards information on the model or even be able to relate personal experience of a similar machine, I would be very grateful.
When the weather improves a little, I will take some photographs and post them.
A big thank-you to all who read this and I look forward to learning some more about this interesting machine.
Best Regards.
Alex.

18
Japanese Bikes / Re: 15 HP+ for CB400A Hondamatic?
« on: May 08, 2006, 12:56:50 PM »
Hi,

There are probably many more differences than you think, like smaller ports and different carburation, compression and ignition timing.

With a choice of only two gears (I think) instead of 5 on the higher powered bike, the 400A needs more torque at lower revs.

You might need a tow to get going!

A.

19
Japanese Bikes / Re: My son's Yamaha Fazer noisey transmission
« on: May 18, 2006, 05:43:07 AM »
Hi,

I "googled" "yamaha FZS600 Fazer gearbox problems or failures", and the first site of "about 10" offers "Lost your front sprocket and washer???-wwwezboard.com".  Here's the link - http://p196.ezboard.com/ffazerownersfrm3.showMessageRange?topicID=2377.topic&start=41&stop=60  
Intrigued, I clicked on this and was swept onto the fairly active forum of the Fazer Owners Club (unofficial) where I found, among other things, links to download both parts and service manuals. I tried two links from one of the last posts on that thread, one for a parts manual, the other a service manual. After a little perseverance I finally induced this little device to pay heed to my request of a download of these items and soon there appeared two files, one each for parts and service, opening up in turn in the same window.
These "manuals" provide ample information for the stripdown and rebuild of this motor.  Sadly the service manual shows clearly that the top end WILL have to be removed to split the 'cases in order to remove upper crankcase bolts 1 and 2.  
Although a bit ambitious for the beginner, I still think that a job like this is within the capabilities of the private owner provided he takes the greatest of care and looks for solutions for the problems he will face.  Shortcuts can be taken, special tools are often easily made and cable ties can be useful.  Repair it at minimum cost, only replacing parts and gaskets which show damage and taking care to strip and change as little as possible (given that it was running fine beforehand and so should need little doing).  
For example, don't remove the pistons from the rods if it is possible to remove and replace the offending bolts with them in situ, bearing in mind the pistons and rings should be treated with care.  Check that all rings are free in their grooves by sliding them in and out rather than sliding them round in their grooves, so that the pistons can be refitted with the ring gaps in as close as possible the same position as when they came out.  
Any fault found would need to be rectified although a complete rebuild should not be necessary unless it's nacked anyway.  You never did tell us the year and mileage of this horse, but the older, less valuable it is, the closer it is to the nacker's yard, and a f**ked gearbox does it.  Fix it.  You haven't much to lose.  Do your research, get your tools organised and get started before it gets worse.  But be careful you don't damage it trying to fix it.

All the best, let us know what happens.

A,      

I assume the Victor's yours.  Well, if you can keep that thing going, you should be able to fix the fazer  ;)

20
Japanese Bikes / Re: My son's Yamaha Fazer noisey transmission
« on: May 17, 2006, 09:00:17 PM »
Hi,

Haynes definately do a manual for this bike, as follows.
____________
Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat & FZS600 Fazer (96 - 03)  
 
 YZF600R Thundercat  599cc  96 - 03  
 FZS600 Fazer  599cc  98 - 03  
Note: Does not include the 2003-on FZ6  
 
 Book No: 3702  
ISBN: 1 84425 152 7  
Web price: £19.99
Availability: In Stock  
____________

Visit your local library and try to get the book there. The librarian may even be able to get it for you. In any case, it may be useful to look at other Haynes books to see if you could work from them, and see what DIY books the library has to cover "modern" motorcycle mechanics.

Don't be afraid of "complicated" Jap. engines. It's not brain surgery or rocket science, just carefull and thoughtfull work.

Be prepared to learn, do what the books say, and get the essential tools even if you have to buy them.

Go on, have a go!

All the best,

A.


21
Japanese Bikes / Re: My son's Yamaha Fazer noisey transmission
« on: May 13, 2006, 01:25:02 PM »
Hi zigzag,

Would you be kind enough to tell us what for?

I must confess, I have never stripped a Fazer.

Anyway, if essential, a press and a competent operator shouldn't be that hard to find.

Maybe you could also tell us of anything to stop the bottom crankcase half being removed without disturbing the top-end, whether or not Haynes do a Manual to suit, or anything else useful, for example, where you obtained your information.

You, as a professional mechanic, would have access to resources the home mechanic does not, such as "trade knowledge" and possibly even personal experience of this particular model.

Posting such information would be useful as users of this site may be more inclined to attempt jobs of this nature than the average owner.

A.

22
Japanese Bikes / Re: My son's Yamaha Fazer noisey transmission
« on: May 10, 2006, 04:31:46 PM »
Hi,

Part 2
 
Yamaha do not use many machine-specific special tools, and problems as they arise, with careful and creative thinking can often be overcome.

Your most useful tool could be a competent friend, but beware of "mechanics" whose own machines don't run sweetly, leak oil, rattle, clatter and make other strange noises, have chewed-up screw heads, and have gasket goo squeezed out from between the joints.

Even if you have to spend £200 on tools (£200 worth of Draper Expert tools would cost £800+ if you had to have Snap-On, for example) consider these an investment as you can use them again and again.  And again and again and again.  Like Jane.  I still have and use tools I bought or was given as much as 40 years ago.  

The parts cost should not be high as the gaskets for side casings could be re-used and bearing and seal could be as little as £20 from a bearing specialist to around £50 for Yamaha parts.  If disassembly is done with care (as it should be) and gaskets sticking to both faces are teased from the faces using a thin steel rule as the casing is being removed few other parts should be needed.

Great care should be taken at all times and cleanliness is extremely important.  Do not rush the job, especially re-assembly.

If the machine is not fixed, its value would be substantially reduced; even more so if it starts to leak oil, or if the gearbox fails completely.  It really is a case of "a stitch in time saves nine" as if it is attended to soon enough, the other bearing on the shaft should be ok.

Take it to a Yamaha specialist, ask their opinion and get a price for the job.  You will probably find that a £200 tool cost is about one half to two thirds of the labour charges estimated depending on where you live.

If your son learns how to maintain and repair his own machines properly, much money can be saved by doing it himself, providing it is done well.

Personally, I started "spannering" as soon as I started riding pushbikes as my dad had a very good toolbox, and a bench and vice in the shed, and was of the opinion that if I wanted to ride it, I would have to learn to fix it.  At eight.  So I suppose that gives me an "advantage" over those with the funds to "have it repaired" at the local shop.

A local Technical College in your area may run a short course on motor or motorcycle engineering which could be useful for learning new skills - I knew a girl who, being a student and being sick of getting ripped off by more than two or three small repairers especially for MOT preparation, enrolled at the local tech at my instigation.  She is now quite competent at general work and has enrolled in a "Recreational Metalwork" class to make special parts for a custom bike she is building.
 
I assume from your "handle" that you are Ben, a BSA enthusiast, who has no experience of Japanese machinery, but some of British bikes.  If that is the case, don't be put off.  But equally, don't assume (as I believe you don't) that all practices considered acceptable for old British machines are ok for Jap. bikes.  Use of an accurate torque wrench, for example is more than just good practice, it is essential.  This is a tool I had never heard of  before starting to work on Japanese bikes.  

If you have ever successfuly fixed anything on your Brit. bike, then have a go.  Conquer your fear of multi cylinders, horizontally split crankcases and overhead camshafts.  You might find some truth in the opinion held by many that Jap. bikes are easier to work on than Brits.  I think that they are just different.

Finally, don't start the job unless you are going to persevere and finish it, and don,t make do with shoddy workmanship by yourself.  Remember, its yours, and if it breaks or "lies down" on you, you're the one who has the indignity of walking home with a red face or cadging a lift from some gloating rider who's opinion is that it can't or won't happen to him 'cause he gets some shop to do his work (at £50 or £60 an hour), or he only buys bikes with warranty so they'll be fixed "for free".

These are my own opinions and I appologise for rambling on, but I do hope someone somewhere, if not yourself, gets something from this.

But I do hope it helps you.

The best of luck to you,

A.


23
Japanese Bikes / Re: My son's Yamaha Fazer noisey transmission
« on: May 10, 2006, 04:30:38 PM »
Hi B,

This is in two parts because the site wouldn't accept it as one post.

Part 1

Running the machine with a duff output shaft bearing will cause the shafts to run out of line.  This will cause excess wear on the gear teeth and the oil seal to leak  oil.  Parrticles of hardened steel hopefully would be caught by the oil filter, but if this is heavily contaminated the by-pass valve will allow unfiltered oil to reach the bearings.  Contaminated oil is death to bearings, especially if it contains hardened steel particles.

Don't assume it will run for ages.  It might, but if the cage breaks up the bearing will collapse, causing balls or rollers and bits of the cage will to be let loose among the gearbox internals causing catastrophic failure, further damage and possible lock up of the 'box and hence the rear wheel which, because it's gearbox failure, cannot be freed by pulling in the clutch lever.  Then it really would be expensive to fix.  And if this happens at any sort of speed, the locked rear wheel would likely cause the rider to take an excursion up the road on his arse.  Not good.  It may then be cheaper to buy a secondhand engine than to fix the original.  And accident damaged bikes are nearly always more expensive to fix than engines and gearboxes.  A stay in hospital with consequent earnings loss is not cheap either.

First, research the job, but don't believe all you hear.  Get (from your local library) a copy of a motorcycle maintenance and repair book ("Tuning for Speed and Economy", while still relevant for modern motorcycles, and "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" are not good examples) and a Haynes manual if they do one (provided your bike is not the newer Fazer with the R6 type engine, I think they do), and pay attention to the advice therein.

A set of combination spanners and two basic socket sets (half inch and three-eights inch drive) of reasonable quality (Draper are quite good, especially the Expert range, which they say carry a "lifetime" warranty although I have never tested this), along with an impact screwdriver, allen keys, ball pein hammers of two sizes and a rubber mallet.  Circlip pliers may be required, so buy or borrow.

Two good quality torque wrenches, one ranging up to around 40lbs/ft for the smaller bolts, and the other to cover torque settings up to the lower 100s will be needed.  This larger instrument is for engine bolts and the rear sprocket nut, which could need up to 80/90lbs/ft.  If you find torque wrenches to borrow and the owner has not returned them to zero after their last use, then politely refuse them, as, if this is normal practice with this tool, the spring will weaken and it will require a new spring and re-calibration.  Mind you, an accurate spring balance with a suitable range can be used either to calibrate an out-of-spec torque wrench or, if used in conjunction with a measured length at the point of force on a breaker bar or smaller bar for lower values, with the use of the correct maths can be a very acceptable substitute although a little awkward to use.

This continues below.

24
Japanese Bikes / Re: My son's Yamaha Fazer noisey transmission
« on: May 08, 2006, 12:35:04 PM »
Hi,

An overtight drivechain will destroy the bearing and eventually, the oil seal on the gearbox output shaft.

You may be able to detect play in the bearing by gripping the sprocket and trying to move it up and down, and fore and aft.

If any play is found, the bearing is certainly damaged, and the crankcases will have to be split to replace it.

It may be possible to do this without disturbing the top end.

A.


25
Japanese Bikes / Re: 69 Honda CL175
« on: May 15, 2006, 11:05:07 AM »
Hi riverrat,

You may have already done this, but if so it may be worth doing again.

Use compressed air or, at a pinch, WD40, blow through the orifices at the inlet side and also the air/mixture screw hole.

If this does not help, remove the carb and dis-assemble very carefully, taking particular care not to damage parts.

Check that parts such as jets. slide, needle and mixture screws are standard, using your other carb and your "shop manual" as reference.

Blow through all orifices using compressed air or WD40, although this leaves a film of oil but does not usually cause problems.

It is often well worthwhile immersing the carb in carb cleaner for a day or two, or at least a couple of hours.

Check the float for air leaks by immersing it in hot water. Bubbles will indicate a hole or holes. It is possible to repair these using a soldering iron and solder. Mark the hole/s, cool the float in the fridge (not freezer), and solder the hole/s using a minimum of heat and solder.  

Set float height to the standard setting and re-assemble, taking care not to overtighten jets and screws and setting the needle position and air/mixture screws to the settings described in the manual or as seen on the other carb which works ok.

A useful tool for checking float height in operation can be made using a spare drain screw or something with the same thread drilled down its centre, soldered or brazed to a short piece of tubing to accept a piece of clear plastic tubing so the fuel level can be seen when this is held against the outside of the carb with a cable tie. Leave the other end of the clear tubing open to atmosphere. You could make two, and compare both carbs at once.

You may already know all this, in which case I apollogise, but if not, hopefully this will help sort your problem out.

Good luck.

A.

26
Japanese Bikes / Re: new to the forum
« on: May 10, 2006, 04:51:51 PM »
Hi guys,

I'm from Carrickfergus.

If you don't want to cross the water, maybe looking north might be the answer?

A.

27
British Bikes / Matchless grasstracker
« on: September 29, 2008, 08:12:25 AM »
Hi guys,

I recently aquired a Matchless G85CS "EMMOTT" engined bike with a plate attatched to the top yoke which says "500cc MATCHMAKER IRELAND". The machine appears to be a grasstracker; it has a speedway type fuel tank, brakes front and rear and a Norton (I think) gearbox and clutch.

It carries a hand painted competition number 447, probably from it's last competitive meeting. Did grasstrackers carry the same number all season?

I would be grateful if anyone can help with the history of this machine as I can't find much about grasstrack machines or history on the web. Also, I wonder, does MATCHMAKER refer to a club?

I look forward to any information which will help.

Thanks in anticipation.

A.

28
British Bikes / Re: st st st stuttering Bonnie
« on: September 30, 2008, 06:52:27 AM »
Hi Henry, a few more points.

If you do not have a wiring diagram, then get one.

I had no space in the previous post to add a comment on the fact that a "kit" was available from Triumph and also Lucas to replace the battery with a large value capacitor mounted on a spring (to protect it from vibration), which was supplied as a standard fitting on some "competition" models. The intention (I think) was to save weight.

To the best of my knowledge, most of these models were also fitted with lights, so I would think that this suggests that, in good condition, the charging system was capable enough to do the job (though only just, I think).

By the way, if your machine is not fitted with a zener diode, only 1 set of alternator coils is used for daylight operation with the rest being switched in when the lights are turned on.

All of the information I have given in both posts has not been recently researched by me, but is from memory and experience. There may be some inaccuracies but I am confident that the info is generally correct.

All the best with your bike and, as is often said as a parting shot among bikers in my part of the world, keep between the hedges.

Best regards,

A.

Twolitre - Your'e about the same age as me then?

29
British Bikes / Re: st st st stuttering Bonnie
« on: September 29, 2008, 08:59:28 PM »
Hi,

Buy a multimeter, cheap one <£10 'll do.

Borrow book on bike electrics(library).

Clean all connections.

Charge battery, fit to bike, leave one terminal disconnected.

Measure voltage before connecting other terminal - should read 13.2v DC if batt in good order + fully charged. Connect other terminal, measure again with ignition off(no load), should show same voltage. Less means drain somewhere, possibly through rectifier or zener diode, so disconnect each in turn to isolate faulty part.

Turn ignition on, measure again. There should be small drop in voltage compared to previous measurement(1/2v to 1v). Even with faulty or discharged batt, when engine starts a rise in voltage should be evident at just over idle.

If there is drop in voltage as engine revs, charging system isn't working. If so, disconnect leads coming from alternator to rectifier and with engine running, measure voltage(AC) across any two of the three leads. I'm not sure offhand what these Vs should be, but they should be within 1v of each other. If no or very low voltage seen across any pair, that phase is open circuit or high resistance. If this is the case (low or no V across 1 or more pairs), measure resistance across all three pairs. They should be within + or - 1/2 ohm of each other. If not, fault may lie with alternator.

If alternator checks OK for voltage and continuity, rectifier may be faulty. Disconnect all wires, check resistance across the three terminals on rect in turn, swaping probes over each time - should be high resistance one way (meg or millions of ohms), low the other (as much as kilo or thousands of ohms). If there's not a BIG difference, rectifier is faulty.

Check resistance both ways across terminal which feeds battery and earth, - should be very high (meg ohms), if low, part is faulty.

If all components check out OK and if there is enough juice to start bike, it should run OK even with flat batt.

Hope this helps.

Regards.

A.

30
British Bikes / Re: matchless 350 rattle
« on: May 24, 2006, 08:39:59 PM »
Hi brooksie,

It may be worth checking the fit of your carburetter slide, as if this is sloppy it can rattle.

Use a stethoscope or a piece of wooden dowel rod held against the outer ear and parts of the engine to pinpoint the location of the noise.

Please post when you find the problem.

Good luck.

A.

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