781
British Bikes / Re: "Jam pot" rear shock Excelsior Universal
« on: March 21, 2017, 07:55:39 PM »
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782
British Bikes / Re: Best oil for a triumph Bonneville t140
« on: March 21, 2017, 02:00:50 PM »
You are quite right about oil changeing LAB, but so many don't. Thats the problem.
783
British Bikes / Re: Best oil for a triumph Bonneville t140
« on: March 21, 2017, 11:50:45 AM »
I stick to my comments L.A.B, and know about the inter-connected case, [been riding/ maintaining Triumphs since 1966] but so often I have taken off a cover to find the insides full of something that looks like custard; I never liked that breather set up at all. A bit of thin oil does the job. Afetr all its not in circulation, just on its way out mostly.
Slightly O/T after years of being a Triumph fanatic/ Met Police Mechanic and all, OIF, The Meridan Co-op and LH gear change did it for me with Triumphs.
I still maintain my brothers TR6 he bought new in 1970; got no time for the new generation of Triumphs, but then I am an old git
Slightly O/T after years of being a Triumph fanatic/ Met Police Mechanic and all, OIF, The Meridan Co-op and LH gear change did it for me with Triumphs.
I still maintain my brothers TR6 he bought new in 1970; got no time for the new generation of Triumphs, but then I am an old git
784
British Bikes / Re: Best oil for a triumph Bonneville t140
« on: March 21, 2017, 08:53:37 AM »
Free the clutch before starting it, Us old time Triumph Riders used to put into second before going back down into first to pull away.
A thinner oil in the chaincase might help, a 1/4 pint of auto transmission fluid or even 30 grade tinned with paraffin.
I have known the over keen fill the chaincase right up with oil........
you only need to wet the bottom run of the chain.
Next time you have the chaincase off check that the pressure plate runs true, with the engine running pull the clutch in and the pressure plate should come to a halt, if it don't it'll drag and bugger the gear change, properly sorted these clutches are as good as any.
I realise you are talking T140, my Triumph experience stopped some years ago when they put the gear change on the wrong side but the generality of the above should still apply.
A thinner oil in the chaincase might help, a 1/4 pint of auto transmission fluid or even 30 grade tinned with paraffin.
I have known the over keen fill the chaincase right up with oil........
you only need to wet the bottom run of the chain.Next time you have the chaincase off check that the pressure plate runs true, with the engine running pull the clutch in and the pressure plate should come to a halt, if it don't it'll drag and bugger the gear change, properly sorted these clutches are as good as any.
I realise you are talking T140, my Triumph experience stopped some years ago when they put the gear change on the wrong side but the generality of the above should still apply.
785
British Bikes / Re: "Jam pot" rear shock Excelsior Universal
« on: March 21, 2017, 08:45:05 AM »
It would help if I did not have to go into the room next door to see all the photo!!
and the right up up helps, I cannot seeany welded in rods, it would not make sense anyway, once these things top working they are rigid near enough.
R is correct Jampots are unique to AJS/Matchless of a certain era, in fact thats why the club magazine is called that.
and the right up up helps, I cannot seeany welded in rods, it would not make sense anyway, once these things top working they are rigid near enough.
R is correct Jampots are unique to AJS/Matchless of a certain era, in fact thats why the club magazine is called that.
786
The Classic Biker Bar / Re: FAO Ian Soady
« on: March 17, 2017, 11:50:56 AM »
mmmm, I still think the Sunbeam will give more enjoyment.
Hondas are 10 a penny after all.
Hondas are 10 a penny after all.
787
The Classic Biker Bar / Re: FAO Ian Soady
« on: March 16, 2017, 04:26:17 PM »
The bikes mags are useless for selling, adverts are mostly read by chancers looking for bikes the owner don't know the value of, or tight arse bikers still looking for that 200 quid bruff.
Before ebay days OBM was good, haven' tread it for over ten yrs though.
You put that much effort into the Sunbeam I think you should keep it.
Before ebay days OBM was good, haven' tread it for over ten yrs though.
You put that much effort into the Sunbeam I think you should keep it.
788
The Classic Biker Bar / FAO Ian Soady
« on: March 16, 2017, 11:48:40 AM »
Try this site for the 'beam, it worked well for me recently. Buyer contact system cauts out all the tossers.
Better than ebay, as no fees at all. better even than a specialist Military site for my bike.
world wide market and stays on till sold.
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/
Better than ebay, as no fees at all. better even than a specialist Military site for my bike.
world wide market and stays on till sold.
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/
789
British Bikes / Re: 1930 Royal Enfield Model c with no lights or anything electrical, original?
« on: March 12, 2017, 12:25:50 PM »
Excellent. 
not such a disaster after all,never be too proud to ask.
not such a disaster after all,never be too proud to ask.
790
British Bikes / Re: Triumph 3ta/5ta rewire from scratch
« on: March 12, 2017, 12:24:03 PM »
Yes thanks for the update,glad to have been of help.
Nothing more satisfying in this hobby than to come out on top of a problem you thought hard to solve.
I make all my own wiring harnesses when I need one, and from habit I always stick to old Lucas colour codes.
The best bit of advice I ever received was to think of each length of wire as a water pipe, ie if it goes in at one end, and does not come out of then there is a blockage or a leak [ no contact or a short circuit].
I would add you can't have enough earth points,, wherever possible I run all earths back to a common point and that powder coating does not make a good contact for earths.
I prefer solder to crimp joints, because I am an oldfart, but I don't seem to have the trouble others do with solder joints, because I learnt how to solder properly 55yrs ago.
Each to his own.
Nothing more satisfying in this hobby than to come out on top of a problem you thought hard to solve.
I make all my own wiring harnesses when I need one, and from habit I always stick to old Lucas colour codes.
The best bit of advice I ever received was to think of each length of wire as a water pipe, ie if it goes in at one end, and does not come out of then there is a blockage or a leak [ no contact or a short circuit].
I would add you can't have enough earth points,, wherever possible I run all earths back to a common point and that powder coating does not make a good contact for earths.
I prefer solder to crimp joints, because I am an oldfart, but I don't seem to have the trouble others do with solder joints, because I learnt how to solder properly 55yrs ago.
Each to his own.
791
Identify these bikes! / Re: Another mystery bike to ID
« on: March 07, 2017, 09:20:32 AM »
Good bit of reverse detective work there R, question was indeed re that lass.
792
Identify these bikes! / Re: I think this is an FN but can anyone confirm?
« on: March 06, 2017, 10:58:15 AM »
Its a great photo, who wouldn't jump at a outfit like that?
Anyone got a Felix mascot for my Sunbeam?
Anyone got a Felix mascot for my Sunbeam?
793
Autojumble / Re: TRIUMPH BRONZE CYLINDER HEAD
« on: March 05, 2017, 10:09:12 PM »
:-\Just under a grand in pounds, have you tried ebay?, you might be pitching a bit steep for UK today.
794
Identify these bikes! / Re: Another mystery bike to ID
« on: March 05, 2017, 10:03:11 PM »
Thanks R, yes, I have also come to think Rover would seem to tick most boxes, Haveing enlarged it I think the gearbox with belt drive has been added, hence no chain case and the gap between engine sprocket and crankcase.
pic dtaes from around 1923/4 ish
cheers
pic dtaes from around 1923/4 ish
cheers
795
Identify these bikes! / Another mystery bike to ID
« on: March 05, 2017, 12:56:28 PM »
OK, whats this one?
Photo date mid-1920s.
My first thought was BSA, but its not, its been suggested Rover,I'm not so sure
Druid forks don't suit BSA/Rover /Triumph
Mag is behind engine, chain cum belt drive, I cannot make out a front brake drum or rim
Some letters can be discerned on the crank case, now photo has been cleaned up it could be Rover at a pinch.
I don't place much reliance on the shape of the tank badge as its similar to many others of the era.
Its got electric light, which must be aftermarket stuff.
The shape of the barrel finning is really bugging me as I think I recognise it but can't remember.
Looks as if its a 500cc or up
Photo date mid-1920s.
My first thought was BSA, but its not, its been suggested Rover,I'm not so sure
Druid forks don't suit BSA/Rover /Triumph
Mag is behind engine, chain cum belt drive, I cannot make out a front brake drum or rim
Some letters can be discerned on the crank case, now photo has been cleaned up it could be Rover at a pinch.
I don't place much reliance on the shape of the tank badge as its similar to many others of the era.
Its got electric light, which must be aftermarket stuff.
The shape of the barrel finning is really bugging me as I think I recognise it but can't remember.
Looks as if its a 500cc or up