Aaaand I got into the workshop today as well!
I spent some time reading Fenner, Pitman, Irving and Greenwood... and while they don't disagree with each other completely.... there are some differences. :roll:
But - we'll get to that.
Back in the workshop I double checked the current setup:
This note tells me how the timing pinion on the crank-shaft was fitted prior to dismantling:
And that's how I fitted it:
The books had said that one trick was to fit the mag-platform/timing chest cover to check the backlash and to ensure that the gears weren't jumping about.
So I fitted the studs: using the double-nut trick to get the studs themselves nice and tight:
Timing chest cover in place (but not pushed fully home)
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This is what I was getting as backlash with both valves open.
2 degrees of backlash. 1 degree is what is mentioned in the books, so that's something to talk to the guru about... along with other things, but I'm not distubing him on Easter weekend!
I carried on regardless - it's all good practise.
You can't really see it here.... but the push rods are ever so slightly not straight.... which means they should be replaced.
I played with the timing wheel and piston tell-tale until I got the 0 degree mark right at TDC.
The tappet clearance, according to one of the books should be 0.003" and 0.004", then reset to 0.002" once the timing is done: which seems a tad odd... but this comes from the Greenwood book - which is based, from my understanding, on racing experience.
Set both sides easily enough.
This is the timing numbers from the 4 books I've got....
I wanted to check the valve openings with the dial guages, so I dug out the ally bracketing I had found a few months ago and made a start on making up the 2 small brackets I needed.
Bit of heat to make the bend easier
Along with an assist from my number one, all time, favourite tool.
The holes for the small end are 1/4", and I ended up doing the other end 1/4" as well - turns out the dial guage lugs were exactly that size.
Guages fitted and aligned.
I lost count of how many times I spun this thing.
I marked the "correct" timings on the wheel in black, and the timings that I had, which were surprisingly close for a first go, in red. But I can't quite make sense of the offsets: I had expected that if they were "early" at one point, they'd be early all round.... but they're not... not quite... I am wondering if I've got a "sporty" cam here... but will be talking to the guru about it first.
One other thing I have seen a photo of, is a little handle on the timing wheel to make it easier to rotate, so I figured that might be worth adding.
I used an M5 bolt and a cork...
It may get improve upon in the future!
So - I need to talk to the guru next week, and buy new push-rods, along with the ends (which come separate), a new oil-union for the rocker box, some new oil-nut fittings, a spanner to fit the buggers (if I can find the right one),
I have another job coming in which necessitated moving a few things about in the workshop... and while doing so I discovered that the right side fork is weeping oil... and there was oil under the gearbox, which I think "might" have been coming from the kickstart shaft. Goldarn it! GAH!
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