Recent Posts

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21
Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by cardan on August 20, 2026, 11:45:14 PM »
Right side of seat lug. Or somewhere else. Or none at all! Some of the numbers are quite lightly stamped. https://classicmotorcycleforum.com/index.php?topic=6473.msg33253#msg33253

22
Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by R on August 20, 2026, 10:25:53 PM »
I've shown this Waratah here before. It came from the original owner.
He said he bought it from P&R Williams with his army demob pay,
and rode it out home. At 30 mph-ish, it took nearly 2 days.
And a few petrol coupons.

Healing frame is out in the sunlight - where is this number
Might need some sandpaper.
23
British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« Last post by Rockburner on August 20, 2026, 09:59:21 PM »
I took it out for a spin this evening, and it's running fine, apart from the fact that the damned clutch is slipping at anything over 50mph.

I suspect it's just not setup correctly so will have a play this evening and fingers crossed it'll be good for the weekend.

In good news, it's nigh on oil tight now, apart from that one cover i haven't tried to seal, the timing chain cover.

Incidentally, if anyone is at a loose end and is near the South Coast on Saturday, there's a classic vehicles meet in Selsey, just a suggestion. :D

.... Later...

So, I think the clutch was indeed badly setup - there was zero play in the lever in the gearbox when I looked this evening.  So I've pulled it apart again, because I was kinda pondering if the plates were badly worn...

however... according to the details I've found: the friction plates should be 0.138" thick, the plain plates 0.080" and the single-sider on the outside (which the pressure plate pushes against) should be 0.110".

I measured them all:


The plates I have are :
Plain plates: 0.080", 0.082", 0.080", 0.082", so they're fine.
The single-sider is 0.111", so it's fine
and the Friction plates are : 0.171", 0.158", 0.172", 0.170"  So, err they're all too thick.


Which makes no sense. (to me at least).  By all rights the thing should be dragging like crazy, not slipping!  :wtf:

I also checked them for flatness on the flatest thing I've got


One or two had a "little" bit of rocking movement. I'll look into how much new plates are and think about it.

SO I did the only thing I can do for tonight....
I buttoned it all up again, and reset it again, trying to follow the manual's instructions as best I could


I think clutch setup is a bit of a black art to be honest....

Oh, and it looks like I was being a bit presumptious about the oil tightness....
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Hey ho, it's better than it was! :D
24
Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by cardan on August 18, 2026, 11:43:19 PM »
I'm going with "cheap and cheerful". Actually these things only look really cheap 60 years later when the fork spindles have rusted solid in place, and the nose of the saddle and the handlebar levers have 1/4" free play.

So come on R, time to give your little Waratah a wipe over with an oily rag and a light reconditioning. If the original finish shows unambiguously that it was a Waratah from birth I think it's worth leaving it rather than repaint, so just the mechanicals? But not before you dig down to the Healing frame in the shed and get that frame number for me!

Leon
25
British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« Last post by Rockburner on August 18, 2026, 09:19:04 PM »
Not much to report today.

Refitted the timing chain cover and the pumps, after cleaning out the oil feed tube with some very handy little brushes I have.


Currently waiting for this nut to turn up.


And refitted the primary chain cover



Obviously all that took me about 2 hours of faffing about and dithering, as per usual

I reckon that, in a pinch, I now probably could strip and rebuild the engine over night.... if I had to.... but it's not something I'm going to try. :D

Fingers crossed that nut will turn up tomorrow and I can get out for a spin and see how it's behaving after the clutch rebuild.  I'm fully aware that it's down on power and compression, but I want to actually ride the thing a bit more before stripping it down again, hey - it'll keep me busy over winter again. ;)
26
Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by Rex on August 17, 2026, 12:59:41 PM »
Their whole world seemed to revolve around their race to the bottom of cheap and nasty. Price seemed to be the sole criteria for the majority.

"Race to the bottom" is 2020's concept. Theirs was more likely to be "a penny saved is a penny earned" which given the financial hardship of the time, made perfect sense. Profit margins were low to non-existent on bikes made purely for commuting, so every little cheese-paring helped with the bottom line.
You want grease nipples? Buy a Brough, McAvoy, Coventry-Eagle etc etc.

27
Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by R on August 17, 2026, 12:14:58 AM »
Well saved - thankyou.

This is the PowerHouse Museums postwar example, for comparison.
About identical to mine - except my (original) tank has a much finer gold pinstripe.
(as I suspect that 1939 should have ?)



Edit. Hmmm, how do I make the pic appear smaller - no auto resizing here ?
28
Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by cardan on August 16, 2026, 11:51:27 PM »
Fingers crossed that the buyer has the combination of expertise, parts and information to restore the bike. The comment about the frame number is a good one, as the old bike movement seems to have drifted into an era of "dating by blatant assertion". Even "identification by blatant assertion" is applicable for Waratahs given the Excelsior origins! At least this one comes with the provenance of an original (or at least very old) tank transfer, and enough remaining original parts with numbers to make an decent guess at the date.

Anyway, here's a "1939 Waratah" from Old Bike Australia a few years back. Or it might be a 1945 Waratah, or maybe a 1941 Excelsior, or....

Cheers

Leon
29
Identify these bikes! / Re: L'il Villiers
« Last post by R on August 16, 2026, 10:45:09 PM »
Sale has ended.
Price realized $1000

So unless we hear from the new owner, the frame number has eluded us.
30
British Bikes / Re: Troubleshooting a JAP Special
« Last post by Rockburner on August 16, 2026, 08:19:28 PM »
Today's session the JAPton fettling is brought to you by the letter P and the number 2!

I'd been pondering the oddity of the tell-tale and realised I'd fitted the selector lever the wrong way around, as evidenced by the orientation of the nut and bolt holding the rearset push rod to the lever.  So I flipped it over and refitted it and the tell-tale does up nice and tight without interfering with the selector lever movement.


Then I rtv-d the the rocker cover again.


I then took a breather and started eyeing that Pilgrim Pump.... and eventually decided that it need a fettle

First remove the oil feed and let it drain.


Then the head feed.


The initial thought was to just loosen off the 2 bolts that hold both pumps in place.


A sharp blade was used to try to gently lever off the pump


I came away easily enough.



"Spare" pump on left and current pump on right.
There WAS a gasket between the 2 pumps after all.


There's also an o-ring around the main feed exit point
As you can see - there was still a lot of oil all over the place.


The gasket was not in good shape


I hadn't actually planned it, but the other pump came loose and revealed something that , tbh, I had been worrying about.
This hole, which is the main feed into the crank, had a web of 3-bond over it.  The web WAS perforated, so the crank WAS getting oil, but it wasn't ideal in any way.  So, bit of luck really that I decided to look at it, and that the secondary pump decided to come loose...


I've no idea what was used as the gasket between the pumps... but it sure had a lot of ink on it!!!


The o-ring on the main feed exit was knackered


I found a suitable replacement which wasn't totally sunk into the recess.


I made up more gaskets...


One of the tricks I find works well for cutting the inner web out of a gasket is to cut small amounts, in a straight line, and to rotate the paper under the knife - it makes for a neater curve than trying to cut a curve with a straight blade.


I cut the gasket wider than o-ring to allow the o-ring to mate to the body of the secondary pump, hopefully  that will help it seal.



The replacement gasket for the secondary pump


The best tool I've found for scraping gasket off is this: an old bit of hacksaw blade, a few layers of tape over the cutting edge and it's strong enough to scrape, but flexible enough to (mostly! ;) ) not scratch.


With the surfaces cleaned off, I dug out another tool: This pin should keep the oil feed passage clear while the 3Bond goes off.


The timing chain seems fine. Has to be said that this mating face wasn't sealed... but didn't seem to be weeping, although there was a lot of oil on the mating surface of the timing chain cover.  Not sure if I'll try to seal it or not.


I didn't use a lot of spooge.


Spread it as thinkly as I thought I could get away with, and mated the whole lot together


Left the assembly to go off before trying to refit it.



This is an embuggerance.


It's the nut that holds the head-feed banjo on, and (I'm guessing here) it's a BSP thread, which means I need to source another one, I couldn't find anything in my odds and sods (yet... there's a few more boxes to try....)

Always something to be done!
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