Author Topic: 1970 TR6P Engine rebuild  (Read 3494 times)

Offline joe90

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1970 TR6P Engine rebuild
« on: October 16, 2007, 06:18:40 AM »
Just getting round to rebuilding top end after long wait for cylinder head from machine shop.  In my gasket set I appear to have a choice of pushrod tube bottom seals - the white neoprene ones - 5mm, 4mm and 3mm thick.  Bolting the head on without the seal or top O ring there is a 4mm gap - should I use the 4mm seal or go for the thicker one.  Using the 4mm seal would mean that everything would have to compress by the thickness of the O ring, ie about 2mm.  I dont want to damage anything trying to put seals in that are too thick but I obviously want to avoid leaks.  The machine shop guy said he took 8 thou off the head.

Offline TBS

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Re: 1970 TR6P Engine rebuild
« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2007, 01:30:49 AM »
To build a top end properly is a very skilled job. As you have had the head skimmed the valves will be closer to the bottom land of the pistons. You must check that the valves don't hit the pistons by measuring the gap between piston and valve, (I use plasticene) which must not be less than 40thou. Put 3 pea size blobs across the cutaway in the pistons, build top end, don't bother with pushrod tubes, but torque everything down to correct spec, adjust valve gap, turn engine over once and take head off and measure the thickness of the plasticene by cutting it in pieces with a scalpel. If all is ok fine, but if not you will have to remove metal from the cutaway until you have the right clearance. I use a Dremmel to do this.
Also don't forget to make sure the fitted valve spring length is correct in the head, measurement must be as per workshop manual. It probably won't be, so you will have to make shims to fit under the bottom cups to rectify the problem.
Once all this is perfect, then you can look at the pushrod oil seals. Fit seals so that you have a 60 thou crush. Not enough and you will have oil leaks.

Offline joe90

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Re: 1970 TR6P Engine rebuild
« Reply #2 on: October 17, 2007, 07:17:05 AM »
I'm glad I asked now! and an excellent tip.  Just finished doing it and the valve/piston clearance is about 100 thou which should be ok.  Valve spring length measure is about 1/32 too long but have no means to make shims except take it all back to machine shop so I'm going to let that one go.  Presumably this means spring force is a tad weak.  "Crush" on seals is about 80thou so I'm going for that  and will put it all together for real tomorrow.  Thanks again, Joe.