Author Topic: 1926 Raleigh Mod 14 parts wanted  (Read 1695 times)

Offline OLD350

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1926 Raleigh Mod 14 parts wanted
« on: January 17, 2012, 08:56:03 AM »
Hi All,

I wonder if anyone out there can help me with the restoration of my 1926 Raleigh Mod 14 ? I am missing some parts and was wondering if anyone might  have them. These are :

a) The front hub which is a plain bobbin type on this model (no front brake).
b) A primary chain cover.
c) A tool box.

Any other parts which may be available and surplus to use.

Best regards,
Albert

Offline 33_Trophy

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Re: 1926 Raleigh Mod 14 parts wanted
« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2012, 04:00:16 PM »
Hi,

what size front hub (Width of hub)?
size of tire? 

I have one 26 x 2 1/2 beaded edge hub & rim & tyre.

It is not Raleigh but might work out for you.

BR
Wanted: vtwin engine for 1917 AJS, Gearbox for AJS S3
https://picasaweb.google.com/JRKoivisto/WANTEDPreWarAJSParts#

Offline Spanner

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Re: 1926 Raleigh Mod 14 parts wanted
« Reply #2 on: June 17, 2012, 11:15:32 AM »
Hi Albert,
I have a Raleigh toolbox
Its height is 9.25" at rear, 7.5" at front, 3" front to back & 5" left to right (deep).
I have rebuilt 2 Model 14's.  I tried this toolbox on my 14 and couldn't get it in as I had the chaincase on one side & the gearchange mechanism on the other so wouldn't say categorically that it will fit.
By MEASURING the space on the bike it should go in but would need to be fitted earlier in the build.
It is not very good condition, extra holes have been drilled, dented and some seams have come unsoldered.  However - to make a new one would be simple.  Unsweat the soldered seams and you have the best possible pattern for fabricating a new one.  Just need TIN plated steel and a big soldering iron.  I have soldered boxes like this and it is easy.  The leather flaps/doors are OK and need to be  riveted on with brass bifocated (split) rivets.
If that is any help, if you send me 5 I will mail it to you.  Also, if you email me on mjheseltinesurf@hotmail.co.uk I will send you some photos.

If you need any spares please let me know, I have some mechanical bits around engine/gearbox/clutch/magneto/rear engine plates/etc.  (No hub or chaincover). 

If you have the 'internal' oil pump (ie. not the external pump with the glass drip viewer) you may be interested in this article I wrote;

The internal oil pump is rubbish.  Both my bikes have this pump and were both seized solid .
On my first, which I did many 1000's of miles on, I had no pump and relied on the following successful mod.

I removed the big headed screws that blank off the oilways and removed the springs and balls from within. Now refit both screws only and blow into the oil feed connection - you should get air out of the outlet quill/special bolt - if not you are going to have to dismantle it to find the blockage.
Now put ONE ball back in and a light spring, say from a biro, and fit its screw.  The other screw is refitted without its innards.
Blow through the inlet again.  If it comes out through the quill OK you then suck, if nothing it is good news!  You have just made a one way valve for the oil.
If this didn't happen, swap the spring and ball into the other hole and repeat.
What you are doing is making a one way valve that lets crankcase DEcompression (as the piston goes up) suck oil in through the quill, the as the piston goes down it pressurises the crankcase and shuts the valve and oil supply off.  It will not be a mechanically pumped supply but this method does work. As I said, I did a lot of miles with this arrangement with absolutely no problem. 
When you are riding YOU will have to control the amount of oil going into the engine by how much you open the oil tap on the bottom of the tank.  I found the half open was about right but if I see a hill coming up I would open the tap a bit to increase the flow.
The hand pump is now unnecessary.  Just leave it screwed down, the engine will suck in all it needs.  The oil cock open half way should be adequate.  I remember when I did this mod on my first Raleigh I kept the cock fully open till I had smoke, then progressively closed it to get no/little smoke which would be the correct flow rate.  The exact position of the cock will obviously depend on the strength of your spring and oil viscosity.
I have done this mod to the Model 14 I am rebuilding now.

If you need any help/photos/advice feel free to contact me.

Vinnie.