Author Topic: T100 68 lighting problem  (Read 12667 times)

Offline L.A.B.

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #30 on: May 24, 2020, 09:52:16 AM »
a EUREKA moment in the garage again re run the reg/rec neg wire to the ammeter this time connecting it to the left side terminal

with the brown/blue loom wire and the brown/white to the other ammeter terminal still showing -4 amp discharge

Brown/blue and brown/white connected to the same terminal would bypass the ammeter.

next I connect the brown/white & brown/blue wire to the left terminal & the neg from the rec/reg to the right terminal

Swapping the wires over reverses polarity across the ammeter. Discharge will show as charge and vice versa so it sounds like something still isn't right especially if brown/blue and brown/white are connected to the same ammeter terminal.

L.A.B.

Offline iansoady

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #31 on: May 24, 2020, 11:57:41 AM »
Forget left and right for the time being. The live lead from the regulator should be connected to the load (ignition, lights etc). The other one should go to the battery probably via the ignition switch.

The ammeter will then show the difference between what the alternator is supplying and what is being drawn  by the various loads. It's actually quite simple.
Ian
1952 Norton ES2
1986 Honda XBR500
1958-ish Tre-Greeves

Offline dynamic

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #32 on: May 24, 2020, 12:52:27 PM »
thought I had cracked it so am I to understand I'm getting a false reading on the ammeter ? I have 14.9 volts across the batt. terminals

ammeter is responding to engine revs just fluctuates on zero on tick over & to + when revved

 do I need to re route one of the 2 loom wires to the ignition switch ?

PS glad I didn't cancel my acetylene lamp conversion kit just yet ! 

Offline L.A.B.

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #33 on: May 24, 2020, 01:51:10 PM »
thought I had cracked it so am I to understand I'm getting a false reading on the ammeter ? I have 14.9 volts across the batt. terminals

ammeter is responding to engine revs just fluctuates on zero on tick over & to + when revved

 do I need to re route one of the 2 loom wires to the ignition switch ?

PS glad I didn't cancel my acetylene lamp conversion kit just yet !

I don't know what is going on there but the diagram below is, I think, correct for your T100 and shows how the brown/blue and brown/white would normally connect to the ammeter and the original brown/white charge wire (arrowed) from the rectifier is shown going to the ignition switch (although the exact connection position isn't important as long as it is on the switch side of the ammeter). 


 
L.A.B.

Offline dynamic

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #34 on: May 24, 2020, 03:43:08 PM »
Hi LAB thanks for the diagram the reason I got a new loom is because over 50+ years  the original wiring had been "Modified "  before I even got to it, almost all the wires were red or black when I first got it

so I will go and do more head scratching and post my findings


Offline R

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #35 on: May 24, 2020, 11:23:57 PM »
That diagram shows 2 brown/white wires off the same rectifier connection, one of which disappears off the bottom of the diagram. !

Where would that go to ?
This may have some bearing on what is going on here ...

Offline L.A.B.

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #36 on: May 24, 2020, 11:25:50 PM »
That diagram shows 2 brown/white wires off the same rectifier connection, one of which disappears off the bottom of the diagram. !

Where would that go to ?
This may have some bearing on what is going on here ...

No, just the wire to the Edit: original Zener diode. The Zener has been removed according to dynamic in a previous post.
« Last Edit: May 24, 2020, 11:59:52 PM by L.A.B. »
L.A.B.

Offline dynamic

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #37 on: May 25, 2020, 02:45:15 PM »
here is my set up stator is a new Lucas single phase 120 watt

I have at the moment the brown/blue & brown/white to ammeter left

rec/reg black wire to ammeter left

I have just been down our lane (total mile) and the ammeter is reading +4 with fluctuation main/dip on or off

battery still reads 14.9 + when revved was on 12.3 volts before ride and 12.9 upon return

at the moment I am still a bit lost and always grateful for any input 

Online Rex

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #38 on: May 25, 2020, 03:44:22 PM »
If a short ride gives an increase from 12.3 to 12.9V then clearly the charging side of things is working.
Obviously if the charging is satisfactory then the ammeter will show that too, assuming it's wired in correctly.
So do you get a variation from "engine off, headlamp on" to "engine on headlamp on", ie is the ammeter showing both a discharge and charge?

Offline L.A.B.

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #39 on: May 25, 2020, 03:55:20 PM »

I have at the moment the brown/blue & brown/white to ammeter left

rec/reg black wire to ammeter left

I assume you mean one of those two is on the right?

Brown/blue and brown/white connected to the same terminal simply can't be correct.

It would be more helpful if you could describe the ammeter terminals as 'positive' and 'negative' rather than 'left and right'.

Edit: Or, with the brown/blue and brown/white connected that indicates a discharge when the ignition and lights are switched on then the ammeter terminal with the brown/blue is the 'battery' terminal and the other is the 'switch' terminal. 

« Last Edit: May 25, 2020, 04:44:55 PM by L.A.B. »
L.A.B.

Offline dynamic

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #40 on: May 25, 2020, 06:04:18 PM »
Hi at the moment this is how my ammeter is connected both brown/blue & brow/white are on the + terminal

the black wire from the reg/rec is connected to the - terminal

if I try to connect either the brown/ blue or the brown/white to the - neg terminal with the neg wire from the rec/reg

I just get the original problem of - 4 on main/dip

now with engine running with the above set up main/dip on or even no lights at all I get a constant +4 on the ammeter with slight

fluctuation on the needle

whilst riding the short distance today the needle still stays at + 4 all the time

I do understand I need the reg/rec wire to the ignition side of the ammeter to complete the charging circuit

but any other combination I try just gives me the - neg  reading on the ammeter

I'm sure this reads as translated Welsh to all but this is my situation at the moment

also there are no other wires connected to the ammeter




Offline dynamic

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #41 on: May 28, 2020, 08:46:13 AM »
I disconnected the wires to the main/dip leaving just the pilot connected upon start up ammeter is reading + with slight fluctuation

I have changed the ammeter wiring to (correctly) brown/white & reg/rec to + terminal and brown/blue to - terminal

a quick ride and ammeter is reading just +

 at the battery terminals I have 14.9 when revved

also left the pilot/rear lamp on for 1/2 hour and got a slight - on the ammeter ( a . 7 amp drop)

 another quick blast and ammeter is on +

so I think charging system is all in order 

I know my previous wiring was "unconventional" but it was the only way I could get main/dip to work

headlamp looks to be original 1968 item (sealed beam) is it possible I have a faulty headlamp somewhere in the unit

has anybody else ever experienced this situation ?

I am going to order a new h/lamp and see if this cures my lighting "strange phenomenon"

Offline mini-me

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #42 on: May 28, 2020, 10:30:49 AM »
What you need is a Terrot, or some other old fench tat.

In all my years as a motorcycle mechanic, I have never known anyone make such a fuss over a job thats should take less than two hours.

I could make a harness from scratch in that time.,and often have.

Offline iansoady

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #43 on: May 28, 2020, 11:06:42 AM »
He is indeed making a meal of it and I wonder whether he really exists.....
Ian
1952 Norton ES2
1986 Honda XBR500
1958-ish Tre-Greeves

Offline mini-me

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Re: T100 68 lighting problem
« Reply #44 on: May 28, 2020, 11:32:45 AM »
He posts,therefore he must........... ;)

I can't be arsed to read back through all this, did you say your alternator has 4 wires? wrong. just because its new don't mean its a good thing.should be two only.

Flatten your battery,or almost,start bike turn lights on,  rev engine if they come up bright all is well in north wales .       bugger the ammeter its unnecessary for the runs out you'll do.

« Last Edit: May 28, 2020, 11:43:31 AM by mini-me »