classic motorcycle forum
Motorcycle Discussions => British Bikes => Topic started by: slip101 on March 30, 2010, 04:41:00 AM
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I am planning on rebuilding an engine out of a 71 Daytona and this will be the first engine I ever rebuild. I was wondering if someone could tell me the parts usually replaced on a job like this. The bike came with a great shop manual and parts book but I just don't know which ones should be replaced beyond obviously damaged parts. The bike has 15k miles on it.
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If the bike only has a genuine 15k miles I would not expect that many parts will need replacing, unless it has been badly abused or stored somewhere very damp.
The things to change as a matter of course would be, piston rings oil seals and gaskets, possibly valve springs and of course any parts that are obviously faulty or damaged.
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Hi,
if I can be of any help with any parts that you may need, drop me an email and I will be very pleased to help.
Regards
Nigel
nigel.wynne@vintagebike.co.uk
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hi,if your doing a total strip down with that sort of miles i would replace bigend shells clean the sludge trap out if that gets blocked it cuts off the oil to the big ends check the main bearings they should be ok get the barrels measured up for wear you should get away with new rings and a hone of the bores regrind the valves it all depends if its had regular oil changes these engines self destruct if not looked after,cams etc should be ok if in doubt oil seals replace there not a lot money and you dont want to put it all back together then find out you overlooked something for the sake of a couple of poundswhen its all done you might want to think about an oil filter conversion it really does help i have just done a t140 rebuild just take your time there easy to work on ::)
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I have read a few things on oil filter kits but can't find much on the internet as far as product quality. Is there a company or individual producing them I can purchase from that would get me where I need to go? I have a couple other questions such as how much would a good quality (nothing showy) paint job run me? This would include the frame, tank, engine, fenders and anything normally painted I may have overlooked. And does anyone know a good place to have gauges rebuilt? I would prefer not having to ship over seas so an American or Canadian company would be most convenient.
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hi, i am in the uk so i dont know anywhere in the usa try going on triumph rat web site you will find a wealth of info including sites about oil filter converstions and a help section by people that know these bikes, most people have the frames powder coated then paint the tin ware
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I have read a few things on oil filter kits but can't find much on the internet as far as product quality. Is there a company or individual producing them I can purchase from that would get me where I need to go?
The MAP Cycle filter kit is a popular option in the USA I believe. http://www.mapcycle.com/ (their website appears to be offline at the moment?) but here's a photo:
(http://www.mapcycle.com/mmMAP/Images/MAP6510.jpg)
And does anyone know a good place to have gauges rebuilt?
I've heard others recommend Nisonger: http://www.nisonger.com/
Also Joel Levine: http://www.joellevinecompany.com/
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The first thing I would do is ask myself "why am I rebuilding it at only 17,000 miles?".
Over 25 years ago I built a car using an extremely rusty looking Triumph 2000cc car engine which I had evidence it had done only 36,000 miles. The engine turned over smoothly and quietly by hand with good compressions and I decided I had little to lose by cleaning and painting it and crossing my fingers.
That engine has now done more than 100,000 miles since. Still going like a train and showing no signs of needing overhaul by performance, increased oil consumption or noises. As the saying goes "if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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]author=twolitre link=topic=2969.msg10058#msg10058 date=1270384021
The first thing I would do is ask myself "why am I rebuilding it at only 17,000 miles?".
Yes indeed. Used to be a common thing with American restorations, the old "only done 5000 miles but I went right through it to freshen it up. New mains, big end, rebore etc etc"
Why?
often no need for it in the slightest. Try it, you've nothing to lose.
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I'd like to add that the speedo is broken and the odometer is at 15k. The guy I bought it from, the best man at my dad's wedding, recommended the I rebuild the top end in the next couple years. He bought the in 1980 and has been doing the wrenching on it since he sent it in for work and it came back running on one cylinder. That's besides the point but it doesn't give me confidence in the ability of local shops that were asking me if I had a part suppliers. So taking all of that into consideration what would be some signs that a top end job is in order?
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If a motorbike shop had it in for work and gave it back running on one, they don't deserve the title of "motorbike shop". Didn't deserve paying either, and if they couldn't even sort something a simple as a Triumph twin they deserve to go out of business. >:(
Poor performance, blue smoke etc say it's time for a rebuild, but before doing that I'd let someone else who has one have a ride on it. It's too easy to get unnecessarily sucked into the "it needs rebuilding" idea.
{still gob-smacked that any shop could be so abysmal though. WTF DO they work on, that a Triumph would fox 'em? :o}
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LOL man, I have no idea what kind of bikes they worked on. Maybe it was a small engine shop, who knows. It already blows blue smoke when it's first started and it does have leaks. The guy said that it was to be expected.
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it might be an idea to change the valve guides as these were notorious for wearing due to the valve geometry , some of the modern colisbro ones made from aluminium bronze would be a worthwhile job.
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http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=258697&l=90609df74b&id=100000033534322
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Looks OK to me. Fit a chainguard and a new set of gaiters and you're away... 8)
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How important are the chain guard and gaiters? I ordered new gaiters but a new chain guard is 80 dollars.
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In the UK you might get pulled over by an overzealous cop for not having a chain guard but I don't know what the score is in the US. Failing to have one may cause old ladies and children to be dragged into your rear sprocket so be careful.
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I would have thought the chain guard was a good idea to prevent the chain taking your leg off if it snapped!
Tom Parry perhaps should have had one (or was it two?).
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Twolitre,
I assume your reference is to Mr John Godfrey Parry-Thomas who was as good as decapitated in a land speed attempt on Pendine Sands. Fatal injury caused by one of the two drive chains of his car.
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Sorry - age creeping in and a faulty recall. I did indeed mean Parry-Thomas with Babs.
Jim (already used up my three score years and ten!)
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That car's been rebuilt now after decades buried under sand...
I like chainguards; keep the flying crap off your legs, and if you see the after effects of a chain break, you see the point.
Plus bikes look too "shite unfinished red-necks charp" without 'em... ;)
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I don't doubt a chainguard's usefulness and requirement for originality but I have never heard of or seen an injury caused by a chain snapping on an unguarded bike. You don't tend to see Motogp or motorcross bikes with them. If it was a safety issue you would think that scrutineers would have something to say about them. There seems to be plenty of chain breakages during the TT over the years but no chainguards on many bikes, none on a Manx Norton. Just an observation.
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I suppose that's true, although competition bikes would have chains checked far more regularly that some daily clunker.
I've had a nearly new Izumi chain snap on a 200cc Honda but that just unrolled onto the road, luckily. Then again, I've seen a few rewelded C range Triumphs where the chain has bunched around the gearbox sprocket and damaged everything in the area...
(the later ones even had a little chain guide fitted in this area to allow the chain to roll off)...to it certainly has/does happen.
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I am having a problem with the bike slipping out of first when starting out. Any ideas as to why?
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As a first guess, check the layshaft endfloat. Too much, and the gears don't positively engage.
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TRY WWW.TRIUMPH RAT ITS A WEB SITE FOR ANYTHING TRIUMPH GOT A PROBLEM SECTION WITH PEOPLE THAT KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT I FOUND IT INVALUBLE FOR ADVICE ON PROBLEMS I HAD WITH A T140