classic motorcycle forum

Runesika, Biking God?? Do I detect a hint of sarcasm there. Actually I thought it was a reasonable question and it does feel as though its stepping out.

 Thanks anyway  Keith

 Anyone got any advice re decent all round tyres for a Triumph T120R  I arent bothered about originality and I arent bothered about longevity. Its on 19" rims all Im looking for is  good all round grip.   Thanks

Personally I would look in the classic bike magazines. I would buy a complete machine thats easy enough to work on BSA/ Triumph. I would go for a runner with a current MOT. ,even then you will spend Lots of hours maintaining and servicing.

This classic bike malarky is very time consuming (if you ride them) also very costly.
 Ive found the problem is with breakers and e bay you dont know what you are getting dont get me wrong you can do alright but its a risk.
 At least if you start with a complete bike and it runs you are more than halfway there. Thats my thoughts anyway.

 Ive had a similar problem. It was the carbs. One of the floats was half full of petrol ,giving a very rich mixture and the other float also had petrol in it.I got new stay up floats from Amal and reconned the carbs re set them and its been great since. I think altogether the cost was about £75.
 I also changed the fuel pipes for the E10 resistant piping.
 It seems strange that it was running OK then it just goes off like this. Does it have ticklers or is it on a choke? (possibly stuck giving rich mixture) Is it on points or electronic ignition?  I set my plugs to 25thou.

Best of luck.

Thanks, LAB does that mean from 1970 on?
The reason for asking is ,my 1971  T120 has been re built after the seizure.
I was using 20/50 classic oil with 20/50 in chaincase. I put new plates in the clutch and set it up correctly.
I was told whilst running in to use straight 40 monograde in the engine and change it after 250 miles I did this, now on the first 250 miles eveything fine ,no problems with clutch.
I changed the oil and because a leak had developed on the chaincase I took it off and re sealed it, I didnt touch the clutch or alter the settings.
I then re filled the chaincase with fresh 20/50 measured to 150 cc. after a run the plates werent freeing when it had cooled down.
What I was wondering was if it was possible that the 40 grade had breathed into the chaincase and it was now too thick for the clutch??
But it was OK for the first 250 miles thats what I cant understand, Does that make sense??
Secondly  Why would you have to put a measured amount of oil into a chaincase if its NOT sealed surely the level keeps altering to some extent, also whatever grade you use in the chaincase will alter as the engine breathes into it too some degree anway.
Would that be correct or am I loosing the plot.  Thanks for your replies

 Just a quick update and something that might be off interest if it happens to anyone else.
 Both pistons had melted on the inside just above the gudgeon pins. The barrels were virtuall run in. No body had seen anything like this there was a deposit of aluminium on the bores at the left and right hand side where the pushrod tubes are.

 Now I accept that the centre area runs hotter cos there are no fins there but to get this hot is quite extreme. Took it back to Morgo and they re placed everything, that excellent service (but did say Id run it in too hard)

Now this is the interesting bit Talking to a knowlageble engineer this evening he said he had come across this before, BLOWHOLES in casting between cylinders

 Makes sense ,gets hot ,air expands , cylinder tightens up on piston this causes extreme local heat, rings melt and so does side of piston. Apparently you can test for blowholes with Ultra violet, it shows a black spot in cylinder wall.
 Guess what mine are off for testing before they get put on this time. .

Thanks for your thoughts. The bike has a Morgo 750 conversion which is new. The gap was 5 thou. It was running great Id done about 250 miles on it before this happened. Im changing the petrol pipes for them ethanol proof ones and going to check carb first cos it did feel more like fuel starvation. What Ive been doing is slowly building revs up then shutting throttle back to about 2000 rpm I havent let it labour or over revved it I think it might have been doing about 4000 rpm when this happened,it still starts first kick and ticks over OK.  Theres always something but that owd bikes eh??