classic motorcycle forum

Have put aside the oil feed to head problem for the moment. I need to replace the valve guides and have new ones to hand and have made tools to do the job, but I am wondering what temp I should bring the head to before picking up the hammer. The vintage motorcyclist book doesnt mention a temp for this job. Any suggestions?

Things havent progressed much while I have been in hospital but I am able to do small things that dont involve lifting ok. Today I filled the oil tank and spun the engine over with battery drill (no cylinder head on yet) to get oil pressure up. I have good flow to the crank and return to tank, but cannot get any oil from the fitting that the cylinder head pipe attaches to.
For those not familiar with Royal Enfields, the head oil supply comes from the scavange pump side and is pushed through the timing case to passages in the crankcase and up to the head through an external pipe.
Today I took the timing cover off and rechecked all the passages and that the relief valve was seated correctly. Using an oil can was able to push oil through all the passages and could feel the relief valve open when pumping hard with the oil can. By turning the oil pump shaft by hand was able to get oil flowing, so I know that the pumps are working fine.
Could the problem be that the drill is not turning the engine (and therefore pumps) fast enough to get the oil to flow?
I hope some of you wiser gentlemen may be able to suggest where I can go from here as I have no wish to start the engine with no oil flow.

The Norma ones are just to show the type I use. They make them for use on car EFI systems so they can be got in smaller sizes.

Well update on the nuts. I could not find the correct sized bar at any of the local steel merchants, so even looking at internet sellers gave no joy. The price of a tap to use once or twice was prohibitive so I just counted up the number I needed and added then to my Hiscocks order. Still not cheap but will be the right size and should fit with no dramas.

Thanks for the replys. I have been looking at  them (classic fasteners) and are a bit shocked at the prices ($2.70 each for plain zinc coated 3/8 nuts) compared to what I buy locally (either metric or unf/unc) for a dollar a handful. I guess that is the price of something rare. Was hoping to buy locally, or even in Aus, but the cost of postage is about the same from UK so will think some more. Other wise buy a tap and some hex bar and make my own.
This engine has been for a swim at one time and left with the water in it. My sandblaster is going to get a workout with this one.

Liking your work so far. My preference is for the Hylomar blue as have seen too much RTV stuck in oil galleries.

They have sent an update on the Phil Irving article.
https://mcusercontent.com/8d8ea490ca17c83e195d0d40f/files/80eebd3d-80f3-5f99-479a-5baeec168cb4/Phil_Irving.pdf?utm_source=Old+Bike+Mag&utm_campaign=079f4c2002-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2024_09_10_05_32_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_-08fc9335e8-569925615&mc_cid=079f4c2002&mc_eid=fd765f182e