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British Bikes / Re: Ariel VB 600 piston option
« on: August 15, 2016, 07:20:08 PM »
Had a sneaking feeling about Harley pistons as some use in ohv's I believe. Thanks I'll look at that but always glad to hear of other options. Thanks
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British Bikes / Ariel VB 600 piston option
« on: August 13, 2016, 09:15:20 AM »
Good morning, I have a well worn standard 86.4mm VB barrel,early 7 bolt version,36-51' era I think. I'm looking at affordable piston options as even JP's are quoted £140. 87mm seems likely, Bedford were mentioned, I can only find 1980 model near the size. Can anyone offer suggestions? Thanks
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The Classic Biker Bar / Re: 6HP JAP CLUTCH
« on: June 21, 2014, 12:10:10 PM »
Thank you Cardan,that would solve the mystery of the hole and why there is remains of a gasket in the drum.So I imagine the level with that hole set at it's lowest position and a light oil.
Yes R' that's the sort of arrangement of clutchdrum and release mechanism. This one has it's stirrup attached to a post and acts in a horizontal plane. Some bits missing between that and a pedal in the vertical,so a bit of recreating to do as these were mostly one-off's I think unlike the combination. Thanks
Yes R' that's the sort of arrangement of clutchdrum and release mechanism. This one has it's stirrup attached to a post and acts in a horizontal plane. Some bits missing between that and a pedal in the vertical,so a bit of recreating to do as these were mostly one-off's I think unlike the combination. Thanks
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The Classic Biker Bar / Re: 6HP JAP CLUTCH
« on: June 20, 2014, 11:44:25 AM »
Definately an option for cyclecars in those years and drives a 2-speed Chater-Lea gearbox,then to countershaft and 2-belts to rear wheels.
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The Classic Biker Bar / Re: 6HP JAP CLUTCH
« on: June 20, 2014, 11:38:56 AM »
Engine is 1909,last year of automatic inlets.
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The Classic Biker Bar / 6HP JAP CLUTCH
« on: June 15, 2014, 03:39:52 PM »
After the advice I got with ignition on this motor I wonder has anyone has dealings with the all-metal clutch. Mostly straightforward but in the pressureplate cover there are 3 holes for securing the drum and one mystery hole closer to the centre taped 3/8"cei I think,what's it for ?Thanks Tony
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The Classic Biker Bar / Re: 6hp JAP ignition
« on: April 14, 2014, 09:19:01 AM »
I agree the Minerva system is similar. I happened across some what I believe to be trembler coils at week-end at an Oil Engine swapmeet nearby,some were labelled Pontiac made in nicely dovetailled cases,rather pricey and could be sure they still worked. The DDB system I came across on a website also this week-end,fascinating that items are being re-created for earliest machines. The breaker units had a similar shape to them even if cam as you say carries a notch rather than ramp. This is first time I've seen Bradbury system and seems like early ringcam...am I correct?
I hope the enormous dwell on JAP will assist a good spark once I restart the work. thanks for the images and ideas,tony
I hope the enormous dwell on JAP will assist a good spark once I restart the work. thanks for the images and ideas,tony
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The Classic Biker Bar / Re: 6hp JAP ignition
« on: April 11, 2014, 04:57:06 AM »
I'm finding this fascinating;this forgotten technology,as you say I'll have to discover how to adapt what I have into making a running vehicle. As for the idea of a 50 degree mag;well the space infront of the motor is restricted by the crossmember supporting the engine mounting ,I don't want to change too much so the idea of a "modern cam" seems a good one if there are problems with the existing one. This week I'm away from the car so I'm gathering bits and pieces necessary. I like your exchange of views and ideas on this site,thanks again,really helpful, tony 
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The Classic Biker Bar / Re: 6hp JAP ignition
« on: April 10, 2014, 11:22:02 PM »
Thanks again,yes I felt that 6volts would be more period,just the conveince of possible battery swap from anyone as this a total loss system presently made me think 12 volts. I don't think I've ever seen one of the early coils and had imagined I'd start with small Lucas coils mounted with condensers on a plate and in a box.As the chassis is Ash timber it will be earthed back to the engine .
The car itself carries the engine inline behind the radiator and an all metal clutch is mounted on the mainshaft running a chain back to the 2-speed Chater-Lea gearbox which is hand-cranked handle through side of chassis. Then a 3/4"x1/2" chain runs to countershaft which turns two belts outside the chassis with a tension control like a large handbrake lever. Beaded edged 26" wheelsand rear brakedrums only.
Lots to do as this it's centenary,but enjoyable,thanks again, Tony
The car itself carries the engine inline behind the radiator and an all metal clutch is mounted on the mainshaft running a chain back to the 2-speed Chater-Lea gearbox which is hand-cranked handle through side of chassis. Then a 3/4"x1/2" chain runs to countershaft which turns two belts outside the chassis with a tension control like a large handbrake lever. Beaded edged 26" wheelsand rear brakedrums only.
Lots to do as this it's centenary,but enjoyable,thanks again, Tony
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The Classic Biker Bar / 6hp JAP ignition
« on: April 09, 2014, 11:12:59 PM »
First many thanks to all on site who put me right on valve timing the 1909 JAP 6hp V-twin. Now I have a couple of questions about how the contact breakers etc are wired as this is a coil model. I assume this cyclecar might have been 6volt originally,though for practical purposes I think I'll stay with 12volts. One contact per cylinder and there are 2 connections on each outside the breaker unit as in attatched pic and I was intending to use 2 coils and condensors mounted in a box. Anyone any thoughts on this ? Thanks
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Autojumble / New Hudson frame
« on: April 09, 2014, 10:43:26 PM »
1957 New Hudson frame,forks,centrestand for sale 65pounds or swap for 38-54' Ariel singles parts,e.g; teles front wheel&hub,VB or VH piston,VB 7 bolt iron head etc, TONY REGAN
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British Bikes / Re: fast ariel 500
« on: March 27, 2014, 08:21:28 AM »
Couple of small items,the overbore for B50 piston: you need to make up new small-end bush as BSA is 3/4" pin and Ariel 7/8",also I recall at first using 1/8" compression plate under the barrel for safe clearance of valves on standard springs .Standard B50 piston 84mm makes it 527cc and 40 thou over 540ccbut then things get thin. I rotated timing chest breather 180 degrees, took ball out and routed pipe to rear to free-up pumping . Rocker feed; from front of timing cover a bit feeble and prone to fracture so either blank off or fit later cover and T' off return line to rockerboxes.
Bearings for mains ; in ideal world rollers for timing side and inner drive side with ball outer drive side,but I've running a 350 for 20years with good quality ball races ,hope this helps.T
Bearings for mains ; in ideal world rollers for timing side and inner drive side with ball outer drive side,but I've running a 350 for 20years with good quality ball races ,hope this helps.T
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British Bikes / Re: fast ariel 500
« on: March 26, 2014, 06:38:14 AM »
Okay, I've raced Ariel's since 1977 on and off,so first rule : begin simply with stock parts and develop it.
I began with VH 500 1949 and in mind to race in Vintage sidecar class,so steel flywheels if you plan to rev them which has different parallel pin and cage to iron wheels (taper ).I then raised the oil level in the camchest drilling a 3/16" hole to the left of basecircle of cam and then get a short piece of 3/16" bundy tube and put slight S' bend into it so it goes from drainhole in timing cover into the old crankcase drainhole adjacent to the crank pinion,this takes any unwanted oil from timing cover and stops magneto drowning in oil etc,buy extra tube as you may not get it right first time,remember smooth bends and seall with Hylomar at each end. If you have a post-war pump in good order fine ,pre-war change it and change to R40,it's the only oil that takes hammer from hot iron engines,also I ran mine on Methanol,but if you only plan short sprints etc not yet necessary. I ran initially with B50 genuine BSA stock piston to up compression. Bear in mind overboring weakens barrel which is only base-studded, I have an 88mm 2-valve Jawa pistoned barrel but that's thru' bolted,a lot of work. I initially used standard valves but then went to JAP inlet,a little larger and ideally once you've done a season go for something with 5/16" stem for better flow,leave that standard exhaust valve in there,nos is best as I've experienced pattern fusion-welded valves where head drops in and costly,soif it attracts a magnet forget it. Cam was standard single lobe A cam to begin and then reground to HS timing,some people also add Mk3 followers. Springs initially were standard softies 422? I think, Do not fit the Terry's so-called HS springs , they'll wipe out your cam and levers in no time. When you get it reliable and change valves put W+S Goldstar multi-rate springs in with top collars and cotters,you'll need dural bottom packers and JAP insulators ,oh and a pen and paper. Carb size try 1 3/16". Just remember reliable finisher,hope this helps,T
I began with VH 500 1949 and in mind to race in Vintage sidecar class,so steel flywheels if you plan to rev them which has different parallel pin and cage to iron wheels (taper ).I then raised the oil level in the camchest drilling a 3/16" hole to the left of basecircle of cam and then get a short piece of 3/16" bundy tube and put slight S' bend into it so it goes from drainhole in timing cover into the old crankcase drainhole adjacent to the crank pinion,this takes any unwanted oil from timing cover and stops magneto drowning in oil etc,buy extra tube as you may not get it right first time,remember smooth bends and seall with Hylomar at each end. If you have a post-war pump in good order fine ,pre-war change it and change to R40,it's the only oil that takes hammer from hot iron engines,also I ran mine on Methanol,but if you only plan short sprints etc not yet necessary. I ran initially with B50 genuine BSA stock piston to up compression. Bear in mind overboring weakens barrel which is only base-studded, I have an 88mm 2-valve Jawa pistoned barrel but that's thru' bolted,a lot of work. I initially used standard valves but then went to JAP inlet,a little larger and ideally once you've done a season go for something with 5/16" stem for better flow,leave that standard exhaust valve in there,nos is best as I've experienced pattern fusion-welded valves where head drops in and costly,soif it attracts a magnet forget it. Cam was standard single lobe A cam to begin and then reground to HS timing,some people also add Mk3 followers. Springs initially were standard softies 422? I think, Do not fit the Terry's so-called HS springs , they'll wipe out your cam and levers in no time. When you get it reliable and change valves put W+S Goldstar multi-rate springs in with top collars and cotters,you'll need dural bottom packers and JAP insulators ,oh and a pen and paper. Carb size try 1 3/16". Just remember reliable finisher,hope this helps,T
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British Bikes / Re: J.A.P. EXHAUST VALVE TIMING
« on: March 26, 2014, 05:57:33 AM »
Nice to know some of these old buildings survive and put to good use. I wish you luck with your 2015 deadline,mine is a little tighter,but it will motivate me,thanks T
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