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Autojumble / Re: Beaded Edge wheel for sale
« on: December 13, 2012, 09:34:27 PM »
Message for Jami in Finland, please email me again. Vinnie / Spanner.
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Autojumble / Re: Beaded Edge wheel for sale
« on: December 03, 2012, 10:37:38 AM »
Hi Gary,
Thanks for you interest. Sorry for not replying earlier, just back from holiday.
It has light surface rust only and there are areas where it still has paint. All spokes are present and tensioned. The brake drum is bolted on, not part of the hub. All sound as a bell!!
I would like £40 + p&p at cost.
If you want photos you know my email address.
I don't understand your phrase - 'Please pm me to the inbox'.
Best wishes, Vinnie.
Thanks for you interest. Sorry for not replying earlier, just back from holiday.
It has light surface rust only and there are areas where it still has paint. All spokes are present and tensioned. The brake drum is bolted on, not part of the hub. All sound as a bell!!
I would like £40 + p&p at cost.
If you want photos you know my email address.
I don't understand your phrase - 'Please pm me to the inbox'.
Best wishes, Vinnie.
3
Autojumble / Beaded Edge wheel for sale
« on: September 19, 2012, 12:04:43 PM »
Have a 40 spoke Beaded Edge Front wheel complete with brake drum for sale.
Do not know what it is from.
Rim outside diameter 20.25", width of rim 2". Rim section is 'C' shaped, not Westwood section.
Condition is good. Spokes good.
Email me for photos on mjheseltinesurf@hotmail.co.uk
Do not know what it is from.
Rim outside diameter 20.25", width of rim 2". Rim section is 'C' shaped, not Westwood section.
Condition is good. Spokes good.
Email me for photos on mjheseltinesurf@hotmail.co.uk
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Autojumble / Re: AMAL carb
« on: August 28, 2012, 10:53:35 AM »
I have 4 AMALs but not sure of the type, they are all remote float chamber types.
One has flange mounting (1 1/16" choke & 2" stud centres), there is another with flange but choke is about 7/8".
Two carbs are circular 'pipe' mounting.
Contact me on mjheseltinesurf@hotmail.co.uk and I will send photos & more info.
One has flange mounting (1 1/16" choke & 2" stud centres), there is another with flange but choke is about 7/8".
Two carbs are circular 'pipe' mounting.
Contact me on mjheseltinesurf@hotmail.co.uk and I will send photos & more info.
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Autojumble / Re: 1926 Raleigh Mod 14 parts wanted
« on: June 17, 2012, 11:15:32 AM »
Hi Albert,
I have a Raleigh toolbox
Its height is 9.25" at rear, 7.5" at front, 3" front to back & 5" left to right (deep).
I have rebuilt 2 Model 14's. I tried this toolbox on my 14 and couldn't get it in as I had the chaincase on one side & the gearchange mechanism on the other so wouldn't say categorically that it will fit.
By MEASURING the space on the bike it should go in but would need to be fitted earlier in the build.
It is not very good condition, extra holes have been drilled, dented and some seams have come unsoldered. However - to make a new one would be simple. Unsweat the soldered seams and you have the best possible pattern for fabricating a new one. Just need TIN plated steel and a big soldering iron. I have soldered boxes like this and it is easy. The leather flaps/doors are OK and need to be riveted on with brass bifocated (split) rivets.
If that is any help, if you send me £5 I will mail it to you. Also, if you email me on mjheseltinesurf@hotmail.co.uk I will send you some photos.
If you need any spares please let me know, I have some mechanical bits around engine/gearbox/clutch/magneto/rear engine plates/etc. (No hub or chaincover).
If you have the 'internal' oil pump (ie. not the external pump with the glass drip viewer) you may be interested in this article I wrote;
The internal oil pump is rubbish. Both my bikes have this pump and were both seized solid .
On my first, which I did many 1000's of miles on, I had no pump and relied on the following successful mod.
I removed the big headed screws that blank off the oilways and removed the springs and balls from within. Now refit both screws only and blow into the oil feed connection - you should get air out of the outlet quill/special bolt - if not you are going to have to dismantle it to find the blockage.
Now put ONE ball back in and a light spring, say from a biro, and fit its screw. The other screw is refitted without its innards.
Blow through the inlet again. If it comes out through the quill OK you then suck, if nothing it is good news! You have just made a one way valve for the oil.
If this didn't happen, swap the spring and ball into the other hole and repeat.
What you are doing is making a one way valve that lets crankcase DEcompression (as the piston goes up) suck oil in through the quill, the as the piston goes down it pressurises the crankcase and shuts the valve and oil supply off. It will not be a mechanically pumped supply but this method does work. As I said, I did a lot of miles with this arrangement with absolutely no problem.
When you are riding YOU will have to control the amount of oil going into the engine by how much you open the oil tap on the bottom of the tank. I found the half open was about right but if I see a hill coming up I would open the tap a bit to increase the flow.
The hand pump is now unnecessary. Just leave it screwed down, the engine will suck in all it needs. The oil cock open half way should be adequate. I remember when I did this mod on my first Raleigh I kept the cock fully open till I had smoke, then progressively closed it to get no/little smoke which would be the correct flow rate. The exact position of the cock will obviously depend on the strength of your spring and oil viscosity.
I have done this mod to the Model 14 I am rebuilding now.
If you need any help/photos/advice feel free to contact me.
Vinnie.
I have a Raleigh toolbox
Its height is 9.25" at rear, 7.5" at front, 3" front to back & 5" left to right (deep).
I have rebuilt 2 Model 14's. I tried this toolbox on my 14 and couldn't get it in as I had the chaincase on one side & the gearchange mechanism on the other so wouldn't say categorically that it will fit.
By MEASURING the space on the bike it should go in but would need to be fitted earlier in the build.
It is not very good condition, extra holes have been drilled, dented and some seams have come unsoldered. However - to make a new one would be simple. Unsweat the soldered seams and you have the best possible pattern for fabricating a new one. Just need TIN plated steel and a big soldering iron. I have soldered boxes like this and it is easy. The leather flaps/doors are OK and need to be riveted on with brass bifocated (split) rivets.
If that is any help, if you send me £5 I will mail it to you. Also, if you email me on mjheseltinesurf@hotmail.co.uk I will send you some photos.
If you need any spares please let me know, I have some mechanical bits around engine/gearbox/clutch/magneto/rear engine plates/etc. (No hub or chaincover).
If you have the 'internal' oil pump (ie. not the external pump with the glass drip viewer) you may be interested in this article I wrote;
The internal oil pump is rubbish. Both my bikes have this pump and were both seized solid .
On my first, which I did many 1000's of miles on, I had no pump and relied on the following successful mod.
I removed the big headed screws that blank off the oilways and removed the springs and balls from within. Now refit both screws only and blow into the oil feed connection - you should get air out of the outlet quill/special bolt - if not you are going to have to dismantle it to find the blockage.
Now put ONE ball back in and a light spring, say from a biro, and fit its screw. The other screw is refitted without its innards.
Blow through the inlet again. If it comes out through the quill OK you then suck, if nothing it is good news! You have just made a one way valve for the oil.
If this didn't happen, swap the spring and ball into the other hole and repeat.
What you are doing is making a one way valve that lets crankcase DEcompression (as the piston goes up) suck oil in through the quill, the as the piston goes down it pressurises the crankcase and shuts the valve and oil supply off. It will not be a mechanically pumped supply but this method does work. As I said, I did a lot of miles with this arrangement with absolutely no problem.
When you are riding YOU will have to control the amount of oil going into the engine by how much you open the oil tap on the bottom of the tank. I found the half open was about right but if I see a hill coming up I would open the tap a bit to increase the flow.
The hand pump is now unnecessary. Just leave it screwed down, the engine will suck in all it needs. The oil cock open half way should be adequate. I remember when I did this mod on my first Raleigh I kept the cock fully open till I had smoke, then progressively closed it to get no/little smoke which would be the correct flow rate. The exact position of the cock will obviously depend on the strength of your spring and oil viscosity.
I have done this mod to the Model 14 I am rebuilding now.
If you need any help/photos/advice feel free to contact me.
Vinnie.
6
Autojumble / 12v AIRHORNS for Sale - (not 6volt)
« on: April 10, 2008, 07:35:50 PM »
Apologies, the horns I advertised yesterday were in fact 12 volt (not 6v). Sorry about that!!
AIRHORNS Stebel, model 'Junior'. 3 horns about 7" long and blue compressor 2.52" dia x 3.5"long.
Please note these are 12 volts. Very loud !!
Price £17 inc postage.
AIRHORNS Stebel, model 'Junior'. 3 horns about 7" long and blue compressor 2.52" dia x 3.5"long.
Please note these are 12 volts. Very loud !!
Price £17 inc postage.
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Autojumble / Re: Wanted Petrol tank for Raleigh 1920's
« on: May 30, 2007, 07:51:18 PM »
Hello bsab,
I don't have a tank but have quite a bit of experience in 1926 248 side valve Model 14 Raleighs as I have renovated two.
To help you with the models, the Model 14 has a flat tank that slides within the top frame and the Model 15 has pannier fuel tanks bolted either side of the top frames with a nickel cover strap. That is the most obvious difference.
You could try for parts, Mike Sleap, 020 85246310 or msleap@freenetname.co.uk (he has some connection with a Raleigh Club). If this is not much help try the Vintage Motorcycle Club library on 01283 495105 or 495102. VMCC, Allen House, Wetmore Road, Burton on Trent, Staffordshire, DE14 1TR. United Kingdom.
Tel: 00 44 (0) 1283 540557 Main Office
Tel: 00 44 (0) 1283 495103 Direct Line
Fax: 00 44 (0) 1283 510547
As I said, if I can help you out with practical rebuild info, I will. I have a few spares for them. Please contact me direct on mjheseltine@hotmail.co.uk
Best wishes, Spanner.
I don't have a tank but have quite a bit of experience in 1926 248 side valve Model 14 Raleighs as I have renovated two.
To help you with the models, the Model 14 has a flat tank that slides within the top frame and the Model 15 has pannier fuel tanks bolted either side of the top frames with a nickel cover strap. That is the most obvious difference.
You could try for parts, Mike Sleap, 020 85246310 or msleap@freenetname.co.uk (he has some connection with a Raleigh Club). If this is not much help try the Vintage Motorcycle Club library on 01283 495105 or 495102. VMCC, Allen House, Wetmore Road, Burton on Trent, Staffordshire, DE14 1TR. United Kingdom.
Tel: 00 44 (0) 1283 540557 Main Office
Tel: 00 44 (0) 1283 495103 Direct Line
Fax: 00 44 (0) 1283 510547
As I said, if I can help you out with practical rebuild info, I will. I have a few spares for them. Please contact me direct on mjheseltine@hotmail.co.uk
Best wishes, Spanner.
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Autojumble / Panther Brass Tank Badges
« on: September 26, 2006, 06:18:58 PM »
I have a pair of good petrol tank badges for sale at £10 + p&p.
They are about 5" x 1.5" and curved to follow the tank.
They are from either a 250 or 350cc single Panther of about 1950.
I remember that the bike had pump-up Dowty front forks.
Sorry, nothing else for that make.
They are about 5" x 1.5" and curved to follow the tank.
They are from either a 250 or 350cc single Panther of about 1950.
I remember that the bike had pump-up Dowty front forks.
Sorry, nothing else for that make.
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Autojumble / Re: re; building 1955 excelsior
« on: September 23, 2006, 04:01:29 AM »
Dear Salmon, My first road bike was the 250 twin Talisman 2-stroke. Can't remember much about it other than reliability was not too good. I remember it smoked a lot which was normal for that engine (a bit like the Ariel Leader & Arrows). I remember draining the crankcase of excessive oil about every month!! to control the smoke somewhat.
Don't suppose the reg no. is 111SNO, my old bike?
Good luck with the work,
Best wishes, Mark.
Don't suppose the reg no. is 111SNO, my old bike?
Good luck with the work,
Best wishes, Mark.
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The Classic Biker Bar / Re: Epoxy adhesive on Cast Iron cylinder fins
« on: September 19, 2006, 04:37:34 PM »
Dear Geoff, Many thanks for taking the trouble to reply. Sounds a good method. Are you aware of another good website www.honestjohn.co.uk ?
Have a look at its discussion area (you may need to register). Absolutely loads of stuff there and is very much used here in the UK. I've posted questions here about 6 times now and the response is really good. I asked about epoxy on fins at this site and had loads of replys the most interesting suggesting I check out 'Jb weld' as they have an epoxy that goes up to 500 degF which is more than enough. I have ordered some of this and coupled with your method we should be onto a winner.
Thanks again Geoff for replying. Isn't the 'net wonderful.
Best wishes, Mark.
Have a look at its discussion area (you may need to register). Absolutely loads of stuff there and is very much used here in the UK. I've posted questions here about 6 times now and the response is really good. I asked about epoxy on fins at this site and had loads of replys the most interesting suggesting I check out 'Jb weld' as they have an epoxy that goes up to 500 degF which is more than enough. I have ordered some of this and coupled with your method we should be onto a winner.
Thanks again Geoff for replying. Isn't the 'net wonderful.
Best wishes, Mark.
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The Classic Biker Bar / Epoxy adhesive on Cast Iron cylinder fins
« on: September 15, 2006, 01:57:35 AM »
I have a broken cooling fin on my 1926 Raleigh. Rather than risk having the piece welded/brazed back on, does anyone have any info or experience in using epoxy to do this job. Years ago I epoxy'ed a steel sleeve into an exhaust port OK but that was a shrink fit as well.
Any help or info would be most welcome.
Thank you.
Any help or info would be most welcome.
Thank you.
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