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Polished crankcase castings were pretty rare in any era, other than on modern glitz restorations.thanx for the advice, I think I maybe wasn't perfectly clear, when referring to casings, I was referring to the clutch, and timing side ones that originally had been smooth and shiny when the machine had left the factory, I know hard graft and autosol polish, works but leaves the deeper scratches, can you use say steel wool or emery cloth first before polishing? can polishing wheels say in a drill help? before hand polishing, I have seen many engines that highly polished one would nearly think they had been chrome plated, that's the look I desire
There are a couple of reasons.
The first is that, as you say, it takes lots of effort and would be expensive for the manufacturer.
The second reason is much more practical. A polished aluminium surface has an emissivity 5 to 10 times lower than oxidised aluminium: in layman's terms highly polished aluminium is no good at all radiating heat. Almost any other finish to the cases - leaving them rough cast, bead blasting, anodising or even painting - will allow heat to radiate faster from the cases and leave you with a cooler-running engine. This is why cylinders and heads are never polished or plated.
Personally, if a set of cases is in "as cast" condition but grungy, I just deep clean them using degreasers, alloy wheel cleaner, detergent, hot water, and nothing more abrasive than a green ScotchBrite scourer. Some people like to bead blast, or "water" blast (which usually still has abrasive particles in the water stream), but I avoid this on engine parts if I can. That way i don't have to worry about the abrasive particles that find their way into every nook and cranny.
Have fun.
Leon
yeah duel output exact one in the pic, and it has a new battery that charges fine, also its wired same as the makers diagram positive earthits blue box, the exact kit you have kindly shown, the exact same coils etc
You say "coils"? I assume you mean the single dual output coil as shown in the picture and not two separate single output coils?
If you do actually mean two separate single coils then how are they wired?the modern type regulator/rectifier dosent seem to have a makers name on it, these modern add ons are all a good idea but bypass the makers manual,
Does charging system appear to be working normally? Have you checked the voltage (both battery and charging)?another thought is could the earth on the coils be maybe not good enough? as they are not earthed direct from the fixing because they had to be cable tied to the frame and couldn't be fixed to it,
According to the Micro-Power instructions (below), only the (+) terminal (of the dual coil) has to be earthed (the coil body is plastic) and only if positive earth.
http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT00281.pdf
its blue box, the exact kit you have kindly shown, the exact same coils etc the modern type regulator/rectifier dosent seem to have a makers name on it, these modern add ons are all a good idea but bypass the makers manual, and the more ore less cheap process of elimination, thanx for the help so far, another thought is could the earth on the coils be maybe not good enough? as they are not earthed direct from the fixing because they had to be cable tied to the frame and couldn't be fixed to it,
its boyer ignition with a duel small modern type coils
which I assume is 12 volt as the rest of the bike, its a lot of years since I messed with brits but to me the spark always looked small,
Which Boyer ignition?
The only Boyer ignition to use the miniature coils is the digital (blue box) Micro-Power ignition.
If it is the Micro Power then it would normally have one dual output 12V miniature coil.
Other Boyer systems such as Micro-MkIII, Micro MkIV, (both black box) and Micro Digital (red box) must use conventional coils, normally either two 6V coils connected in series or one conventional 12V dual output coil.it also has a management box,
What make/type of "management box"? I assume you mean a regulator/rectifier?
the bike runs on electronic ignition and is timed bang on, so next try is going to be new 12 volt coils, does anybody agree and advise this?
As it has "electronic ignition" (which make/type?) then it's more likely to require two 6V coils (connected in series or one 12V dual coil) for best performance.or am I just wasting just more hard earned money?its boyer ignition with a duel small modern type coils which I assume is 12 volt as the rest of the bike, its a lot of years since I messed with brits but to me the spark always looked small, it also has a management box, that worries me because, how does one know if its working correctly? the engine is mechanically sound as its had a srm rebuild, so has to be either carbs or as I now suspect electrical
Possibly.
