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Messages - 250greeves

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1
British Bikes / Re: front no plate
« on: April 11, 2009, 09:03:44 PM »
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no i have sorted out my brake light ::) i have been told my front no plate is illegal and needs to be removed...HELP :'(

There's certainly no requirement to remove the front reg plate from a machine of that age to comply with the current MoT regs. There are several machines that are owned by our local bike club members that are fitted with mudguard mounted plates and this has never been an issue when they are MoT tested at the our 3 local test centres
The garage/MoT station that is telling you this has been ill advised or sought no advice at all.
Of course you could always take it off and put it back on later as you have been advised with the lights.

Again, best of luck. Looks like you need it.

2
British Bikes / Re: brake light
« on: April 09, 2009, 01:53:03 PM »
It should have had one when it left the factory. I think the exemptions at that time were if the bike couldn't exceed 25 mph (like a moped) or if the bike wasn't fitted with lights at all. I don't think this was the case.
If you have no lghts fitted at all you can have it tested for a "daylight" MoT - my trials bikes have these - the restrictions are obvious.
If you can find a copy of the wiring diagram there might be some clues there.

Best of luck

3
British Bikes / Re: STRIPPED THREAD ON T140V CYLINDER BASE STUD
« on: March 09, 2009, 08:14:18 PM »
Quote
Quote
I'm sure the studs are 3/8"UNF x 3/8"UNC - I don't think they're stepped, the Triumph Manual doesn't appear to show this.

Yes, I remember that now. They're shouldered as well.

That's a good link.

Thanks,

T
 
According to the parts books, the outer studs, are, as far as I'm aware, part 71-3013?

And here is that stud as shown in the  Tri-Cor catalogue:
http://www.tri-corengland.com/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2etri%2dcorengland%2ecom%2fcgi%2dbin%2fss000001%2epl&WD=71%203013&PN=71%2d2500_to_71%2d3295_6%2ehtml%23a71_2d3013#a71_2d3013

Clearly it's a stepped stud.

The nut end of the outer stud is 5/16" diameter, as I checked a spare outer base nut for size, it is 5/16" UNF thread with a 7/16" A/F hexagon.  
http://www.tri-corengland.com/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2etri%2dcorengland%2ecom%2fcgi%2dbin%2fsh000001%2epl%3fREFPAGE%3dhttp%253a%252f%252fwww%252etri%252dcorengland%252ecom%252fcgi%252dbin%252fss000001%252epl%26WD%3d71%25203013%26PN%3d71%252d2500_to_71%252d3295_6%252ehtml%2523a71_2d3013&WD=21%202177&PN=21%2d2010_to_21%2d2182%2ehtml%23a21_2d2177#a21_2d2177





4
British Bikes / Re: STRIPPED THREAD ON T140V CYLINDER BASE STUD
« on: March 09, 2009, 07:11:22 PM »
Quote
Thanks. Can you remember what size UNC thread it was?

I'm sure the studs are 3/8"UNF x 3/8"UNC - I don't think they're stepped, the Triumph Manual doesn't appear to show this.

So the base thread is 3/8"UNC.

T

5
British Bikes / Re: STRIPPED THREAD ON T140V CYLINDER BASE STUD
« on: March 08, 2009, 06:42:14 PM »
I had to repair one of my base stud threads when I rebuilt my '78 model. I'm pretty sure it's UNC at the crankcase end of the stud and UNF at the nut end - if you see what I mean.

When you pull the stud if you find that the thread is more coarse than the nut end it's UNC; if it's the same it's UNF.

Hope this helps,

T

6
British Bikes / Re: Dunlop rubber trials saddle,greeves scottish,HELP
« on: February 15, 2009, 12:49:49 PM »
I'll dig out some info on the springs and post it for you. I have a copy of the spring drawing somewhere. I'll reduce a full bike photo as well.
It's worth signing up with the GRA (Greeves Riders Association) if you haven't already done so. They have a register of frame numbers making dating and original registration retention quite straight forward.
They can also supply copies of most manufacturing drawings of parts for your machine, especially the fabricated bits like the front mudguard stay and footrest assembly.
Some parts e.g. the mudguard stays are manufactured and supplied by various GRA members. My two Scottish's have mudguards provided by them. It makes them a comparatively easy machine to restore.
What year is your machine? Mine are 1958 and 1959. There were changes every year as you would expect in competition machines.

Regards,

T


7
British Bikes / Re: Dunlop rubber trials saddle,greeves scottish,HELP
« on: February 15, 2009, 10:13:10 AM »
............. OK. So the photo file was too big!! Hope this helps anyway.

T

8
British Bikes / Re: Dunlop rubber trials saddle,greeves scottish,HELP
« on: February 15, 2009, 10:10:08 AM »
Steve, I've attached a photo showing how mine is fitted up. If there's anything else, let me know.

Until I looked at it I didn't realise the springs were so rusty!

T

9
British Bikes / Re: Dunlop rubber trials saddle,greeves scottish,HELP
« on: February 14, 2009, 02:03:02 PM »
I have fitted one of these to my Greeves Scottish, also replaced the rubber cover when the original one perished. What is it that you need to know - is it how to assemble the cover to the frame and nose bracket or how to fit it to the bike itself?

Regards,

T

10
British Bikes / Re: 1978 T140 Rear Wheel Spindle Arrangement
« on: January 24, 2009, 05:08:53 PM »
The disc is sitting closer to the left hand side or wheel rim side of the caliper slot. That's what made me think the washer was either the wrong one or in the wrong place.


11
British Bikes / Re: 1978 T140 Rear Wheel Spindle Arrangement
« on: January 24, 2009, 04:30:06 PM »
L.A.B - Thanks very  much for the photo's and quick reply. That setup looks just like the one on my bike. The 0.10" thk washer etc.

I suppose I'll have to look elsewhere for the misalignment - maybe a bent caliper plate. I'll strip it tomorrow and check it out.

Thanks again

12
British Bikes / 1978 T140 Rear Wheel Spindle Arrangement
« on: January 24, 2009, 03:07:05 PM »
Hi, the rear spindle arrangement on my '78 Bonneville has a washer/spacer between the caliper plate and the speedo gearbox on the rhs of the wheel. Does anyone know the dimensions of this or if there is supposed to be one in this position.

It's just that the disc does not sit centrally in the caliper and I suspect that this might be the source of the problem.

Thanks for your help,

T

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