Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - twolitre

Pages: 1 ... 12 13 [14] 15 16
196
British Bikes / Lucas DKX2A Distributor.
« on: June 19, 2008, 06:51:53 AM »
For some time I have been searching for a DKX2A Distributor for my 5T Triumph Speed Twin. It is NOT the same as 6T Thunderbirds, which only have 12.5 degrees of advance and have a very different number.
  I have found one bearing the correct number (40352), but with the suffix letter 'B' instead of 'D' (i.e. the correct number is 40352D).
  Can anyone tell me the significance of that letter please?  Does the letter signify some small update on essentially the same (15 degree advance) distributor I need?
  I am starting to get rather desperate for a suitable unit.  It seems I might be better looking for hens teeth or that unicorn stuff.
  I do know that Triumph Twin Spares advertise one 'for Triumph Twins', but they do not respond to requests for more info.  I have given up on that.

197
British Bikes / Re: Villiers engines and unleaded petrol
« on: June 15, 2008, 07:04:53 PM »
Sorry to burst your bubble Douglas, but my car is a Gentry I built myself almost 25 years ago from the remains of a Triumph Vitesse Mk2 two litre.  It resembles a 1950's MG TF so closely that about 95% of people think that is what it is.
  However, it would give your desired cars an extremely good run for your money!  Unlike a real TF with a maximum speed of around 75 mph.  My Gentry has clocked 16.02 seconds for an electronically timed standing quarter mile - crossing the finish line at almost 95 mph.

198
British Bikes / Re: Villiers engines and unleaded petrol
« on: June 15, 2008, 06:23:41 PM »
A lot of scaremongering has taken place about unleaded petrol and older vehicles.  As long as the octane rating is suitable the only thing to worry about (other than the carcinogenic properties of unleaded petrol!) is valve seat wear and consequent 'pocketing' of the (poppet type) valve head into the seat.
   Obviously, two strokes have no poppet valves, so there is no problem.
   On four stroke engines with conventional poppet valves, serious pocketing will generally take MANY thousands of miles and will be detected if valve clearances need increasing significantly and frequently.
   If this happens, valve seat inserts will need to be fitted, but why do that before it is necessary (if at all).
   I have a Triumph car which has done over 50,000 miles on unleaded, with no modification, and I have never needed to increase the valve clearances.  My Triumph 5TA is also run on unleaded and though not for the same mileage is not yet showing any problems.  No (expensive?) additives have ever been used.

199
British Bikes / Re: WHO to trust to bore T120 cylinders
« on: April 05, 2008, 11:02:05 PM »
Noting the replies you have posted in other topics, I get the impression you are an eBay salesman! Can't you get a rebore through eBay?  More seriously, you might get a response if you divulge what part of the World you reside in.
  By the way, as for determining selling prices with a high reserve on eBay.  I ignore EVERYTHING with "Reserve not met".  They waste my time and annoy me immensely.  If I sell on eBay my starting price is always the reserve (in effect).  If my start price attracts no bids, then I know no one wants to pay what I am prepared to accept.

200
British Bikes / Re: t100s rebore
« on: April 04, 2008, 04:58:04 AM »
The bike leaning to the left on the side-stand is a good point.  If you do tend to leave it on the side stand it could mean you should check the valve to guide clearance very carefully on the other side as well.  After all they will have had the same time to wear.

I did not mean to imply that you have piston/ring trouble, which I doubt from your symptoms, but you asked what to look out for so I mentioned checking piston slap at t.d.c. while you have the head off.

Regards, Jim.


201
British Bikes / Re: t100s rebore
« on: April 03, 2008, 03:44:59 AM »
So smoke means 'it ain't broke' do it?

202
British Bikes / Re: t100s rebore
« on: April 01, 2008, 06:48:03 AM »
If the bike smokes after standing and then clears, it sounds as though you have a worn valve guide or guides.  When you strip it, insert the valve from the 'wrong' end of the valve guide so that it sits in the guide in the normal stem working area.  If sideways movement is perceptible the valve guide or stem is worn enough to allow oil to drain from the rocker box.
  Pistons should have no more than perceptible sideways movement at the top dead centre position at right angles to the crank axis.  If there is little or no movement, re-ringing will probably be okay.  Anything more than that will require the use of an internal micrometer or dial gauge to measure wear and is best left to the experts.  If there is a marked wear ridge, re-ringing, unless 'ridge-dodger' rings are fitted, can produce knocking and/or broken rings.

Don't make the mistake so many people do of connecting oil consumption with compression.  The piston carries compression rings which can survive or fail before the oil control rings (also fitted) and vice versa.  Oil control rings often become clogged with carbon after high mileages or when oil changes have been ignored.

This is a fairly complex subject and if in doubt consult a specialist and let him view the parts.

203
British Bikes / Re: One Blue Silencer...
« on: March 29, 2008, 07:41:10 AM »
 Weak mixture and retarded ignition are generally the two main causes of 'blueing' because the combustion is not complete when the exhaust valve opens.  I am not sure what kind of ignition system your bike has, but if it is controlled by cam and points there are possibilites of cam or spindle wear causing an imbalance in ignition timing.  If it has twin points variation in the points gap could cause the problem.
  There are two other possibilities :-
One is a 'tight' clearance on the exhaust valve of the offending cylinder causing the valve to open early.
The second is a leaking or burning exhaust valve on that cylinder.

204
British Bikes / Re: New Body Parts for British Bikes.
« on: December 08, 2007, 09:19:56 PM »
This seems to have 'dried up', but for what it is worth I bought a Triumph 5T swining arm toolbox off ebay which came from India. Clearly listed as 'brand new replica', it is indistiguishable from a genuine Triumph part.
  Should this thread revive and if these are the same people, their products seem good.
  The people I bought from currently have a toolbox on auction on ebay in Tiumph Spares.  Clicking on 'contact member' or 'ask seller a question' might be productive.
Jim Walker.

205
British Bikes / Re: Triumph 5T Tank Badges.
« on: March 13, 2008, 06:55:04 AM »
Thanks Henry,
The main reason I think it should have the striped band type decoration is that the holes in the tank are for very small screw threads and are 3 inches between centres measured with a caliper ignoring the tank curvature.  Also, the holes are spaced parallel to the ground - all the mouth organ badges I have seen seem to have larger diameter screws with one hole higher than the other.  Even if the holes were the right distance apart it would leave the badges at a strange angle.

With regard to your other question about the ignition.  I had to eat crow on that!  I will say no more, but refer you to the second page of the saga where all questions are answered.  It now has a DKX2A distributor.

206
British Bikes / Triumph 5T Tank Badges.
« on: March 11, 2008, 09:59:00 PM »
I have a Triumph 5T Speed Twin re-imported, reputedly, from Burma.
  It may be that appropriate parts are difficult to source over there, but whatever the reason it has acquired quite a lot of 'backyard engineering' (see 'Electronic Ignition? Help.), as well as a variety of earlier or later Triumph parts, not necessarily Speed Twin.
  The bike carries matching frame and engine numbers of 08275.  TOMCC. have dated the bike as 1957 and even quoted the export date as June 4th 1957.
  Mouth Organ type badges are currently fitted to the four gallon tank, but these are obviously the wrong ones as they have been re-drilled to match the mounting holes in the tank.
  I am aware that a variety of 'mouth organ' badges with different hole spacings have been used, but I rather suspect that the bike might have started life with the earler striped band.  It must certainly have been produced just before or after the changeover.
  Can anyone please tell me what kind of badge/trim I should be searching for, and even better, the part number(s)?
Thanks.

207
British Bikes / Re: Extortionate Nuts and Bolts
« on: December 20, 2007, 09:27:30 PM »
This seems to have wandered a long way from the original posting, but now safety has been mentioned here's another thought.
  Finer threads result in a greater tensional force in the bolt for a given spanner torque. Using normal metric fasteners, which have a coarser thread than BSF (or UNF) instead of the BSF or UNF original fitting results in a weaker fastened joint (and more so if substituting for finer cycle threads).  Is this desireable - or even safe?
 Jim.

208
British Bikes / Re: Extortionate Nuts and Bolts
« on: December 19, 2007, 12:47:32 AM »
I think Grizzly missed my point when I mentioned A/F spanners.  I was suggesting using them as a handy caliper for assessing THREAD diameters.  NOT using them in place of  Whitworth/BSF spanners on the hexagons. That leads to damaged nuts and bolts AND knuckles.
  Adding metric items to a bike which is essentially built with Imperial threads not only looks wrong - it means an extra set of spanners to carry for emergencies!  Also, 6mm is not exactly 1/4 inch and 8mm is not exactly 5/16 inch.  In fact no metrics will fit your pre-drilled holes properly.
  However, Grizzly is right in saying that tapped holes in aluminium alloy castings are (usually) Whitworth.  This often applies to ferrous castings and softer metals such as brass etc.
Jim.

209
British Bikes / Re: Extortionate Nuts and Bolts
« on: December 17, 2007, 10:53:38 PM »
For whatever my experience is worth - British pre-unified/metric usage generally used B.S.F. threads,with the odd exception of Whitworth and 'cycle' threads.  For people with no eye for thread pitch, keeping one each of 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and perhaps 7/16 and 1/2 inch B.S.F. for comparison, anything non-unified or metric will be 'cycle' if finer pitch and Whitworth if coarser.
  If diameter assessment is a problem, check with the jaws of an open end A/F spanner.  A 1/4 spanner has 1/4 inch jaws (Across the Flats) and so on.
  British Standard threads usually have no identifying marks.   To identify (and discard) unf items look for a circular indentation in the bolt head and a broken circle around the hole or notches on the points of the hexagon on nuts'   Metric Items generally have an '8' (or two) on bolts and nuts.
  Smaller Unified Coarse threads are the same pitch as B.S.W. and can be mixed in an emergency.  The thread angles are in fact slightly different so if mixed in an emergency a new nut and bolt should be used as soon as possible.
Jim Walker.
  OH! please don't ask about screws\and threads used on the electical equipment. THAT really is a nightmare!
  It might help to clear up another misconception.  A/F means Across the Flats (of nuts and bolt heads) and is NOT a thread size.  The matching nuts and bolts are UNIFIED not A/F.

210
British Bikes / Re: Speedo turns per mile.
« on: December 19, 2007, 10:03:24 PM »
Thanks LAB. I did know, but I have not been able to find one which did not require an overdraft.  The only one I found was £270!!!
  It seems that this number only fits 5T's.  I expected the 6T at least to be the same, but it seems not.
Jim.

Pages: 1 ... 12 13 [14] 15 16