classic motorcycle forum

40 years ago, anything that revved to 14k rpm would have been a bit special !!
Fire away with the pics,

Some of the rockets these days have tachos redlined at 17k  (and you get a warranty), bits may be useable.  But understand that something homemade may be unlike anything available.     Cheers.

Definitely an Enfield design of hub - that cush drive is very distinctive.

Enfields themselves used this hub of course, and that hollow axle idea - prewar Enfields for some years had sprocket and brake drum on opposite sides.
And being a smaller size of drum, was for the smaller models of Enfields. I notice, for example, the Models B, C, L, LO and G for 1935 had a rear 6 &1/2" drum, among many such examples and years.
The larger models tended to use a bigger drum - which became detachable at some point.   HopethisHelps.

Easy to test some of these.
Take off the floatbowls, and see if there is water or grunge lurking.

Its also not too difficult to try a separate battery to power the starter, although obviously you need a good battery (car ?) , and some cables to allow this.
Be careful that the connections are correct + or -, and shielded so can't short anywhere or anything. Only the heavy cables for the starter need rearranging.

Can you switch the coils around to see if the problem swaps side. ?
If you don't have leccy ignition, have you tried removing a plug lead and trying to start the difficult side only ?  This can sometimes identify where the trouble is, by getting everything spot on. This can be as simple as a throttle cable (or choke) not quite engaging enough to give a good starting setting. (Are the throttle cables perfectly synchronized ?).

Hope this helps.

Why not just ask the seller for the engine-frame dimensions- if he knows you actually have an engine then you are a serious bidder !  Not much time left...

The problem you are going to instantly meet though is that your engine is likely to have a semi-unit gearbox (bolted to the back of the motor), whereas that ebay frame expects an entirely separate Albion and engine. So rather than 'cutting the frame' you are going to have an engine/gearbox sitting in a rather spacious frame, needing some rather large (custom) engine plates all around...  Hope this helps.

Neat little RE125. It would be interesting to know why these mudguards "aren't right", look exactly like the factory pics.  That muffler looks decidedly plump and oversize though. And the battery a bit of a lash-up. Why isn't the coil under the tank ?

Its not going to be able to cruise with the big bangers though, rather limited on what runs it can tackle ?  Hope this helps.

P.S. Looks like someone enquired about this model here a few years back.
http://www.classicmotorcycleforum.com/index.php?topic=3749.0

Could be worth seeing if they can be contacted.

R is referring to powder coating as powder coating. Which is plastic.
There is powder coating and powder coating.
Pick a good one then.

P.S. Name a not-recent british manufacturer that used powdercoat ?

Be careful of paint names ?  The English use the word "cellulose" very loosely, its acrylic lacquer in the rest of the world. Chips and scratches easily.
Cellulose is for guitars and furniture and fingernails. And T-Model Fords.

BSA would likely have used a sprayed enamel by that stage, probably of the baked variety (heat lamps) and with something to harden it. Your choice. Powdercoat looks like plastic, and is difficult to repair if required, and even to fix minor damage. Your choice.