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Messages - R

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1561
Some Royal Enfield models of the early 30s also used a MP40 headlamp - not sure precisely which model - like the Matchless range, these were the smaller models, with the Lucas points-in-generator system. Mostly they had the switches in the tank though, so possibly not this model headlamp. Hopethishelps.

Note that I have amended this post, closer examination reveals Enfields used an MP40 headlamp, which I am assuming is probably not the same...

Be nice if all this Lucas info was gathered together somewhere ?

1562
British Bikes / Re: BTH magneto advance/retard unit
« on: June 30, 2011, 11:36:31 PM »
Never actually sighted a BTH auto advance unit - what do they look like ?
Anyone got a picture ?

The Lucas version for Norts Turnips etc seem pretty tough, although the springs can get weak and the pivots all wear something terrible - only with big miles though...

1563
British Bikes / Re: BTH magneto advance/retard unit
« on: June 30, 2011, 12:26:28 AM »
Race engines totally prefer slack wire advance units.

Magnetos that need the wire pulled tight to get full advance can vibrate back to retarded timing. Which may be OK/ just a nuisance on a touring bike, but in the heat of combat in a race, the rider may not notice, and this can harm or destroy engines...

The advance-retard bit is often a bolt-on part, so can be configured to suit whatever it is used on. Note that this may not fit onto some engines. This would be applicable to most magnetos, not just BTH ?

Opethiselps.

1564
Identify these bikes! / Re: Mystery Machine............
« on: June 27, 2011, 11:31:31 AM »
Could be a 30s Excelsior ?
http://motorbike-search-engine.co.uk/classic_bikes/excelsior-pioneer.jpg

No guarantee your engine is correct/fitted correctly for your bike though.

P.S. Mudguards in this pic appear to be held up by anti-gravity ??


1565
Identify these bikes! / Re: Mystery Machine............
« on: June 27, 2011, 12:29:02 AM »
Any chance of a pic from the other side.
That engine looks like it is welded in there, seems very high in the frame ??
Looks mid to late 30s, assuming all belong together ?
Not too many makers used a Burman box ?
3.00 - 19 seems like very wide tyres for the time, you'd expect 2.75 -19.

Is there any more of it somewhere ?

1566
British Bikes / Re: Nickel and Zinc Plating DIY style
« on: June 23, 2011, 02:45:22 AM »


Incidentally all plated "bright" parts were bright nickel before 1930's when chrome came in as a more durable finish to coat the nickel in ... it hardens the surface but is effectively a clear coating of a few microns to bring the shine out on the nickel.

Regards Gromit

Plated chrome is MOST CERTAINLY NOT a clear coating.
Plated chrome is a bright shiny silvery metal.
And can be applied in thicks coats if desired - although this is VERY expensive.

Nickel plate has a slight yellowish look to it.
Chrome plate has a bluish look to it.
Although these days there are different versions of chrome - trivalent, hexavalent, and hard chrome. And satin chrome (or dull chrome).

A lot of British manufacturers (and some foreign ones) for some years applied chrome to bare steel - and very good chrome it was too. Thickly applied, and then polished back smooth, it can be very long lasting. Its thick enough to be waterproof.

These days, a thin coating of chrome over a thicker coating of nickel gives good corrosion properties (the nickel is waterproof, if thick enough) and the chrome is the shiny bluish layer over it. Which corrodes very little, and easily polished with wax etc, which also further waterproofs it.

Opethiselps.

1567
British Bikes / Re: Nickel and Zinc Plating DIY style
« on: June 23, 2011, 02:36:54 AM »
Certainly Nortons (and others) stopped using chrome on the tanks and wheel rims for a while in the early 1950s - they had to reduce their chrome use by 70% was it - but they NEVER stopped using satin-chrome on all the nuts bolts and small fittings. And the exhausts and handlebars and fittings were all still chromed, as usual.

Anyone know when Nortons, under new management (AMC) stopped using satin chrome ?  By the Commando era, it was zinc and cad.

1568
British Bikes / Re: Vincent Black Shadow mo'bike:1953 model.
« on: June 08, 2011, 01:26:00 AM »
There is actually a pic of a 1000cc Sarolea on this very website.

http://www.vintagebike.co.uk/pictures/1945-sarolea-1000cc/

New one on me, I'd call that a very rare bike.
Or a BMW in disguise, although its not.

Ignition keys didn't generally appear until the mid 1950s, at least.
Before then it was often hard enough to start your own bike ? (jist kiddin).

hth

P.S. a bit of ferreting around reveals the above bike pic has lost its muffers, and from the model number may be a 1939 model,  so may not be a perfect example of the genre. ?

http://www.hd-classic.be/en/moto_civil_detail.asp?id=332&NAV=1

1569
British Bikes / Re: Vincent Black Shadow mo'bike:1953 model.
« on: June 07, 2011, 10:35:47 AM »
Lesson 2 in how to steal a moidasickle ?

1570
Identify these bikes! / Re: Wheel hubs?
« on: June 05, 2011, 12:20:23 AM »
36 spokes would suggest they were used on smaller bikes ?
Most larger bikes used 40 spokes (?).

1571
British Bikes / Re: Vincent Black Shadow mo'bike:1953 model.
« on: June 02, 2011, 07:37:06 AM »
Is this info still required ?

There is a video which sounds like it may help
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D00FcmgXxb8

Note that I haven't watched it...

Starting a bike which no-one is familiar with can sometimes be very tricky !
I've heard of folks selling them in despair.

Yes, the magneto lever should be part retarded for starting - assuming it pulls the timing full advanced for normal running, you set it back a bit.
Yes, if there is a choke lever - for normal running you pull it full up - you should feel it pull the choke slides up. For starting, drop them back down a bit - full down will probably be too much.

The valve lifter, which is normally near the clutch lever (but a shorter lever) is squeezed, and the kick starter gently pressed down - you should feel a piston go over top dead centre, and then the pressure comes off the kickstarter. Continue to squeeze the lever, and press down again on the kickstarter. Doing this, you find that you get 2 compressions in fairly close succession, then a long period where the flywheels can easily be turned over. The idea is to just ease over the second compression, stop squeezing the valve lifter, and then give a hefty kick to try and start it. This gives a l-o-n-g period of flywheel rotation to build up momentum during the kickstart kick, which should bounce it over compression, fire up and keeping running.

If this is too vague, can go into more detail.
Someone who is familiar with starting a big single should be able to help here too, its just a matter of finding the right crank position to start it. Setting the controls.  And that long swinging kick.

Have fun.

1572
British Bikes / Re: Vincent Black Shadow mo'bike:1953 model.
« on: May 31, 2011, 11:10:07 PM »
Well, there are 2 carbs, to start with.
And the valve lifter, essential to get the crank to where it will start.
But you knew that...

"Am I missing something ?"
A Black Shadow ?
1st time we have been approached to help steal one ???

P.S. Rapides were more numerous.....

1573
British Bikes / Re: Nickel and Zinc Plating DIY style
« on: May 30, 2011, 10:41:36 PM »
The ES2 Norton used almost entirely satin chromed nuts bolts and bits, with a few chromed ones, so neither kit will work here if you want original.

Lightly bead blasted stainless will more or less duplicate this, but many of them were the factory special shapes, so not available off the shelf anyway.

Hope this helps.

1574
Identify these bikes! / Re: Unidentified Villiers lightweight
« on: May 28, 2011, 02:31:04 AM »
P.S. there is a nicely restored and almost identical Acme just down the page on this very website.

At this rate, be able to have an Acme convention....

1575
Identify these bikes! / Re: Unidentified Villiers lightweight
« on: May 27, 2011, 12:31:54 AM »
Thanks for the speedo drive pic Leon.
Still not entirely obvious what is holding it there... ?

Fishtails are evident, but a bit faint.
http://www.ozebook.com/acme.jpg
http://www.cybermotorcycle.com/gallery/classics_a/Acme_125_Australia.htm

Go inside the rear stand.

Cheers.

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