New to restoring, advise please

[mell357]

Been restoring classic 1980s' jet skis for a while and know them inside out, have decided to go back to my first love and restore a bike.
I have actually bought two, a 1980 US spec Kwak Z1000 ( Always wanted one when I was young in the 80s'), 9000 miler that needs little doing but it's going to get a full strip and restore also a 1981 Honda 650 Night hawk more to practice on.
I have started on the Nighthawk and I am carefully and slowly stripping it. I need advise on blasting the frame for coating, should I remove the steering head outer bearing races from the frame or leave them in?.
Also, the motor is sweet and not leaking, I am of a mind to leave well alone as it's not broke (you know what I mean). The black paint on the motor is scruffy though. Is there a way to clean the old paint off the motor without having to strip it and have the parts blasted?.
Any help or advise would be much appreciated.
Simon.

[murdo]

Hello Simon and welcome to the world of old bikes.

Re the steering head, I use two big washers and a piece of threaded rod and nuts to cover the top and bottom races so they do not get blasted by the sand. Seal the washers with some grease to prevent the sand from getting into the head stem, but be sure to clean it anyway before reassembly.

Re the engine, if you wanted to strip it some paint stripper from paint shops would work (be careful as its caustic stuff) but the ones I have done I have given them a good scrub with strong detergent, sanded where necessary, wash with thinners and repainted.

Enjoy the rebuild.
Steve.

[wetdog]

" Seal the washers with some grease".......... this will run out ruin the job and is a real pain (frame is heated for p/coating) knock the bearings out its not a problem as a good p/coater silver tapes all these areas , its very important with oil in frame bikes , should any p/coat find its way where its not wanted nitromorse will remove with ease , use Redditch p/coaters if in bham not bou**rnes if you ever want to see the part again.

[R]

I have actually bought two, a 1980 US spec Kwak Z1000 ( Always wanted one when I was young in the 80s'), 9000 miler that needs little doing

You may want to think twice about this. ?
Low miles original bikes are becoming quite collectible, and highly sought after.
Just tidy up any tatty bits and get it into good running condition.
Always get a lot of attention at shows - to see how they were before someone 'got at them'

Remember, they are only original - once ??

[murdo]

" Seal the washers with some grease".......... this will run out ruin the job and is a real pain (frame is heated for p/coating)

I've never had a problem with putting a THIN smear of grease under the washers.
Agree with R that the original unrestored just cleaned up bikes here in Aus get a lot of attention at shows.

[john.k]

I personally think powder coating for bike frames is a costly pita.Unless you very carefully mask,or fill, anywhere that will have to be cleaned after coating,you will have a months work ahead of you.Have the frame dry blasted with garnet(or sand if you live in Bangla Desh),and have the blaster coat it with inorganic zinc paint.(Not zinc epoxy). Or good old red oxide primer, if you re a skinflint.Then paint at your leisure with a two pack polyurethane.The motor can be soda blasted,but don't let them talk you into soda blasting the frame or tinware,its expense for no reason.Regards John.

[wink]

You wouldn´t powder coat a Ming vase so restore it as it was painted when it was made. You aint going very far on it so it should last as long again. lots of bikes were sandblasted when new to get rid of brazing flux and give a key for the paint. Father worked at Tandons and made wooden stoppers for the fork tubes to bolt in place as Murdo said but the other workers were too idle or thick to bother and the fork bushes soon wore away. Paxolin, still got some in the cellar.

[mell357]

Lots of real good advise here, I am surprised by the fast response. Lots to think over, I really wanted the Kwak mint but I will take advise on it and think again. The Honda needs a fettle, it's scruffy.
I will practice on the Honda taking this advise on board and rethink the Z1000 once the Hondas' done. Thank you to all who posted, really appreciated. If there are any other beads of wisdom I am all ears. Experience cannot be substituted. Thank you again.

[mell357]

Well the Nighthawk came to pieces a treat, easy and a credit to Mr Honda. So much easier than 25 year old Kawasaki jet ski where aluminium and salt water get to mix on a regular basis and have then been left to fester in a garden for years because the trusty two stroke motor developed some minor niggle. Not a bolt seized, nothing sheared, a miracle!.

I decided to remove the head stock bearings but am leaving the swing arm bushes in and trying the washer trick, the swing arm bushes look more rooted than the head stock outer races. My question if anyone can help is re the head stock bearings, I understood that these should be loose ball bearings when in fact it has taper roller bearings fitted. These do not look original and were a swine to get out as they provided no edge to get a purchase on or a drift onto.

Also the guy that I bought the bike off said that the cam chain can be noisy when cold, to be honest I could not fault it. If there's a problem I would sooner sort it now while the motor is out, does anyone know if the cam chain tensioner causes problems on these old single cam motors?.

I am at Worksop, north Notts. Can anyone recommend a place kind of local that will do re chrome work. The stock 4 into 4 exhaust needs doing as well as a pile of peripheral bits like headlamp bucket, chain guard etc.

As last time any and all advise very welcome.

Regards, Simon

[murdo]

The Tapered Roller bearings in the headstock are an upgrade on the old loose balls and give better/precise handling. Just replace them with some from your local bearing supplier.
The washer dodge on the swing arm is a very temporary affair. You will have to tighten it up regularly, and it will still move. Do the job properly and you will be much happier with the way the bike will go around corners.
Honda have never been able to make a reliable cam chain tensioner for these motors. I suggest that you lift the top head cover and have a real good look with a strong torch to make sure that it has adjustment left and no 'chew' marks from the chain. That said, they are not that expensive or difficult to replace.
Good luck with you project on bringing another old Honda back to life.

[Bomber]

mell, Prestige chromers in Mexborough S Yorks aint that far away and they are the best round here by far

[wetdog]

if you decide to replace the cam chain attach the new one to the old one first (they come with a soft link) if you don't it can be a real pain .