new here - with a T140V

[eagle747]

Hi!  Just bought a mostly restored 1974 T140V.  Not altogether standard (has a splayed head, clocks on console and the split type sidepanels, Morris wheels) but what has been done so far is good quality. So will post pics when I get it back to my workshop.  Got to decide whether to stick with points or go for elec ignition (Boyer etc).  Would welcome any suggestions that will help my old tired legs by not having to do more kicking over than necessary.  I have read the Boyer setup requires more vicious kicking over than a well set up standard points based setup.

[henry_norton]

Welcome to the forum mate. I've got a boyer on my Triumph and it always starts first or second kick - even with my '66 hi compression engine. The battery does need to be in good nick though. I damaged my hip kicking over my old XS650, (points ignition), but the boyer kicks over just fine.

Enjoy the ride!!! HN

[eagle747]

Thanks for that.  I'll probably go down the Boyer route then. Will keep a tender on the battery so charging should always be at max.

Don;t suppose you know what sort of sidepanels I should have?  They are two piece ones at the moment with the Bonneville badge bridging across the two pieces.  Doesn't look right to me.  It may have been changed when the splayed head was fitted.  No proper air box either - just a pair of K&Ns or similar.

[henry_norton]

Yeah, two piece side panels with the rectangular 'bonneville' badge should be right for that year, although if you've got K&N filters then something may have been modified to suit as there should be an airbox there. Can you post a picture?

The Boyer's good although I have been frustrated with a couple of wrecked batteries (not uncommon), but I'm experimenting with battery types so hopefully will find one which lasts more than 8 months....

[L.A.B.]

Don;t suppose you know what sort of sidepanels I should have? They are two piece ones at the moment with the Bonneville badge bridging across the two pieces.  Doesn't look right to me.

= Two piece sidepanels each side as Henry says, the front parts are plastic which are also the outer parts of the airbox, the rear parts are triangular shaped sheet steel pressings. Moulded sidecovers which only covered the same parts that were fitted previously, were only used on the T140/TR7 from 1978-on (also '77 T140 Jubilee). 

It may have been changed when the splayed head was fitted.  No proper air box either - just a pair of K&Ns or similar.

It should have a splayed (inlet port?) cylinder head? All T140V models did between 1973-'78

As the parallel inlet heads were first used on the T140E models from January 1978-on.

I suggest that you buy a copy of the FACTORY (not Haynes) workshop manual and 1974 parts book as soon as possible.  

Boyer ignitions have served me well for many years, note that there are three suitable types available, the Micro MkIII, the Micro Digital and the Micro Power (which has it's own coils) and to use the other two Boyer types two 6V coils will also be required, as the two coils have to be wired in series with a Boyer, and that's what they recommend, you could wire the two original 12V coils in series, - but you may end up with weak sparks or plug fouling problems?

   http://www.boyerbransden.com/index.html


There are also some more electronically up-to-date alternatives; -  such as the Tri-Spark 'Classic Twin ignition, Pazon (two types) and Sparx:



http://www.trispark.com.au/

http://www.pazon.com/

http://www.tri-corengland.com/acatalog/Ignition_kits__electronic__&_Coils.html

[eagle747]

Hi.  Will post pics at the weekend when there is better light )or some light at least!).  The side panels have been chopped about due to the addition of a pair of conical K&Ns.  Not sure I want to go down the road of replacing the airbox, rubbers and panels - so may just fit a pair of retro T120 type panels for now as they look better.  Will I get slain for this?
Had a problem as the wiring loom is -ve earth and the rest of the bike is earlier +ve earth.  So got a new loom and a load of other stuff from Grin Triumph.  Hope to start work this weekend.  The engine cases are stamped T140E though the alternator is T140V (two wire) and the ignition as I said earlier is points.  Now I am worrying what thread some of the engine studs are - probably UNF but who knows? !!!  Also the tacho drive unit is missing (all I have is a hole!) and one side os broken off the alloy oil junction that sits behind the timing cover. Ho hum.  And I need some proper shocks . Got new fully shrouded ones (probably Hagon) but they should be 12 1/2" chrome springs on black bodies I think.  Anyone want to do a swap???

[L.A.B.]

so may just fit a pair of retro T120 type panels for now as they look better.  Will I get slain for this?

It's your bike, so make it the way you want it to be.

 Now I am worrying what thread some of the engine studs are - probably UNF but who knows? !!!

Triumph changed over to American threads (UNF/UNC) in 1968, so bolts with nuts should be UNF, and bolts and screws into alloy should be UNC..BUT...you never know what previous owners have done, like using Metric fasteners in place of Imperial, so check bolt diameters and number of threads per inch as you go, and you will soon be able to tell the difference between Imperial fine UNF and coarse UNC threads as well as other types like the metric.

Here's something that will help you identify the various thread types.

http://www.britishfasteners.com/threads/

And a pitch gauge (or gauges) are very useful tools to help identify tpi rather than trying to count threads using a steel rule.


http://www.shopwiki.co.uk/search/Screw+Pitch+Gauge