Info on BSA 1940's bikes for a novice!

[Blue]

If you have experience riding motorcycles in general then handchanging can be awkward, but like most things you'd get used to it.  I find it difficult changing between British/Italian/Japanese footchanges since the gear-change pedal alternates sides; the action changes (from one down, 3 or 4 or 5 up to one up, 3 down); the number of gears can be between 3 and 6; and in one case i have a heel-and-toe lever.  But after a few minutes on the selected bike it comes pretty naturally, and I'm confident you would find handchanging the same - just don't try to rush into gears, take it easy and let the gear lever fall into place, like a car really.

I'm not trying to persuade you one way or the other with this, but I am urging you not to be discouraged from buying an otherwise ideal bike because of one or two possible quirks.

Regards,
Blue

[BSA1]

Thanks for your help folks.  A lack of M20's is making me look at a Norton big 4 at a dealers for £4400  matching numbers etc and an Arilel 1954 VB 600 SV for £3800.

Any thoughts on those two?  The Norton has telescopic forks but still looks the part and it might be a bit pokier to keep up with traffic and easier on the hands...........

Thanks for your help.  I am a bit worried also about overheating M20 sidevalves - what damage can happen if they do overheat?

[Revband]

Hi Chris
The burning of exhaust valves is caused by running the bike for long distances with the ignition retarded, if the ignition timing is set correctly and the advance/retard lever is used correctly then no problem will be found with overheating, also be aware that this applies to any old bike weather overhead or sidvalve, the problem is caused by either ignorance or carelessness.

As for which bike you decide to buy, it has to be a personal choice, both the Norton and the Ariel are good bikes but to my mind possibly over priced at the prices stated, there is no real advantage buying from a dealer as non that I know of will give a guarantee on a bike of this age, my advise would be to join the VMCC and attend the local meetings, these people are the real enthusiasts and can often point you towards members and friends of members with bikes for sale, take your time and find the bike you really want buying privately from a genuine enthusiast will produce a far better/cheaper bike than you get from a dealer.

Also remember that buying the right bike at the right price is not money spent it is money invested, buying from a dealer you have lost money as soon as you pay for it, you may well find that over time as the bike appreciates in value you make up the loss, but better to buy right in the first place.

Most enthusiasts are proud of their bikes and would baulk at the thought of selling a duff bike to a fellow enthusiast, they are more likely to get rid to a dealer!.

Regards
Dennis

[BSA1]

Thanks Revband, heeding your advice I have bought a WD20 from an enthusiast for alot less than the dealer price.  It is in very good condition and has been well looked after and maintained.  It is in civvy spec now and once I have the frame number I will see when it was built.   I don't want to post any pictures yet as I am not picking it up for 2 weeks.

Thanks for all your help folks, she's a nice model and I will enjoy tootling around at 45mph to a few shows and meets.