1962 Model 88; previously 1957 basket case value?

[johnnyboy-wonder57]

Kiwi,
I think it was the American Importers who wanted the Norton 650cc  Export machine, Christened the Manxman!

Excelsior fans wouldn't have been happy with it, really it was a bling, "Califoniased", "Sunny state" Norton Dominator, less like the Isle of Man machines you couldn't imagine, small semi- peanut-ised tank and high bars, they should have called it the "Wildman" !

If they had have brought out a wide-line version "Cafe-Racerised" version, with clip-ons, big alloy tank, rear-sets, half-fairing, low lean lines, contoured seat, & tucked up Sports exhaust & silencer, then the name would have made sense to the British Norton fans, but that's marketing for you.  It does look more like what "Johnny" would have ridden if the "Wild Ones" had been re-jigged to the late 50s or early 60s!  A  proper well thought out, Flat-Tracker/Desert Crosser, would have made more sense to be marketed in the States in the USA that had more sun, than rain!

Probably  built trying trying to cash-in on the fringes of the Custom-era, pre-Easy Rider era!


Cheers

John

[Kiwi]

John

I think your analogy is fair, it is interesting to note that even now the popularity of British machines made in the original styles for the UK and Europe are more popular than the ones made for the USA. Triumph only made slight customisations for the Bonneville America by comparison with the Manxman by the looks and yet if you compare two triumph Bonneville's one from the USA and one from the UK built for the UK the Brit bike fetches a premium.

Personally I have over the years considered buying a Bonneville to re-live some of my youth but have shied away from the "America" for the very reason that its just not the same!

BTW I was at Reno a few years ago at the Air Races and met a bloke who was helping us on an aircraft that had two team Triumph Daytona's that came straight of the race track in the 70's and went right into storage at his hangar, they are still on the crates they left the race track on! (a little off topic I know).

Cheers

Eryn

   

[wetdog]

over here (uk) usa versions fetch a higher price

[R]

  A  proper well thought out, Flat-Tracker/Desert Crosser, would have made more sense to be marketed in the States in the USA that had more sun, than rain!

There was the Atlas (750cc) Scrambler model in the early 1960s.
Whether it was well thought out or not. ?
Take a strong man to tame that in full cry....

And the later series of Norton N15CS's, Rangers, P11, P11A.
(and the 1950s Nomad models).
So someone was thinking of these things back then.

[Kiwi]

Can anyone recommend a suitable workshop manual that will be comprehensive enough to re-build my bike? Something that will cover in detail standard bore sizes, ring gaps, bearing tolerances, gear box etc would be good, I have seen a number of "do it yourself" manuals on line but I have had an experience with ordering one and it being woefully inadequate for a car engine I was re-building.

I am finding it difficult to remove the front forks especially releasing the the split rings on the tree that holds the main spear of the shock. I am concerned I may break the rings by wedging the gap.

Cheers

Kiwi 

[wetdog]

there may be a  language issue here with some manuals and the terms used over there , clymer is your best bet

[Rex]

I am finding it difficult to remove the front forks especially releasing the the split rings on the tree that holds the main spear of the shock. I am concerned I may break the rings by wedging the gap.

I'm guessing you're referring to releasing the fork tubes/stanchions from the bottom yoke by using a wedge to open the lower yoke slightly?
Go for it, the yokes are malleable iron and will give the required few thou to release the grip. As said by others, treat yourself to a Clymer or Haynes, both would cover this sort of procedure in depth, although if you need in-depth rebuilding info, go for an original workshop manual reprint.

[johnnyboy-wonder57]

Kiwi,
norton bob wrote on: http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=458507

See thread;
"The Haynes manual is around (with a few errors ,gearbox,wiring,etc),the Norton books are poor .......,"
As Rex says the other firm is Clymer, rubber/brass mallet,  wood, some soft-rags, good large screw-driver type implement to carefully open-out the clamping section, plenty lubricant WD40 type to facilitate release,  sounds like something''s giving birth...!
This still may be the case about literature, but try..!
 htt'p://www.nortonownersclub.org/, see Book list.

I bet Classic Bike, Classic Mechanics have done a few articles though,   also there must be some vid's around, try You Tube, to talk to Brits you may be have to use our names, Top yoke, clamps nearest to the handle bars; bottom,(lower) yoke, is the one with with attached steering-head stem.

Cheers


JBW

[Kiwi]

Thanks all

My terminology left a bit to be desired!

[Kiwi]

Got my new Haynes manual today and embarking on the stanchions tonight!

I thought I would start another thread on painting as previously discussed so load up your questions and I'll see if I can help out!

[Kiwi]

I have discovered the bore size on my 500cc dominator engine is about 0.030in over the 0.060in piston size!, how far out can I take the bore for currently available pistons if any?

Can the Dominator engine be reliably sleeved?

Can I use a 600cc piston and bore out to 68mm? or is the gudgeon pin location on the piston different on the 600cc variant due to the stroke change needed to achieve 600cc?

If I made the engine a 600cc version how would this be viewed?

[R]

We are confused !
+30 over 60+ on a std 66mm is already bigger than the 600cc's 68 mm bore ??

To get to 600, the crank also needs to be stroked.
And the longer 600cc cylinder fitted to suit.

Yes, dommie cylinders can be sleeved - most of the suppliers have spuncast liners to suit.
Although, if its been bored out a long way, may be getting a bit thin already...

[Kiwi]

Oh sorry it does not read well at all.

Basically I have only checked the bore with a vernier and it appears to be 67.31mm, someone has cross hatch honed the cylinders ready for fitting pistons but there are no new pistons with the bike, I have only two very damaged pistons one has 060 just readable I assume 60thou over size.

I am a little confused at the sizes and I need to check my calculations by the look of it, I did refer to a conversion table but maybe I let late night dyslexia intervene! My Haynes book shows sizes in metric and the oversize measurements listed in thousandths of  inches, my book tells me a standard bore is 66mm for the 500cc and 68mm for the 600cc, so I have rather confused the two engines in my description and need to only refer to the one I own from now on a 500cc. 

[Kiwi]

Can you tell me at what bore size should I consider my barrels to be beyond adding a liner? where is the thinnest point in Dominator barrels/cylinders? or what is the largest OD for an available liner to repair my barrels?

What can I expect to pay for new barrels and are there good new options?

Cheers

Kiwi

[Kiwi]

Hi JBW

I have pretty much completely stripped the Domi down now and I am looking at purchasing a spares list as soon as I have the head checked out by a machinist.

Is there any one good source of parts?

Do you have people you have had good experiences with buying engine parts in particular?

I have started to put together a painting thread but I am not so sure it is needed as yet by the look of the responses, do you have any thoughts on that?