Anybody with Twenty One / 3TA experience?

[Rex]

 author=antoni link=topic=4694.msg18592#msg18592 date=1376488990]
I don't see anything wrong with mixing metric and non-metric if it's convenient and clear.

Been giving that one some thought, and I can't envisage any situation where mixing units would be more "convenient" than just following normal convention and sticking to one type or the other. 

The works warehouse floor is marked with metres and cubits.

Any particular reason why that warehouse is using units which mean absolutely nothing to 99.9% of the general population?

[john.k]

If I need a bearing or bush there is a small local shop,used to be a bearing outlet, but has been taken over and turned into a r/c toy car shop.If I go to get something like a sintered bronze bush(they have large stocks),and mention 5/8 or 13/16,the ten year old at the counter says Im doing his head in.The fourteen year old manager comes out with his laptop,or tablet or smartphone or something,and says everything is converted to metric,with dimensions to six places,and that is the only way to identify anything in stock.Thats progress? Regards John.

[Rex]

But surely any old stock of Imperial bushes will still be marked with those old Imperial sizes, so why would they need to convert in this way?
Better to go to someone like Bearing Boys, at least they recognise that there won't be direct and suitable metric equivalents for all (if any) Imperial sizes and so stock both ranges.

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Oilite__Bearing_Bushes_-1011-c

[john.k]

All the bushes are marked with the manufacturers part nos ,which are common,like ball bearing no s.However the young persons running this place have chosen to allocate their own system,and store all stock accordingly.The shop is about 1/2 mile away,a nice run on my Ariel,other bearing outlets at least a twenty mile round trip.Probably too much for the Ariel.Bearing Boys would be a 20,000mile round trip,definitely too much for an Ariel.Regards John.

[wetdog]

which Ariel have you ?

[wink]

4X2 is sold by the metre but I always have  8 inches left over.
What can I do with 8 inches?

[Bomber]

.... so you.ve got wood?

[antoni]

Three things make me think all's OK now.

A surprising amount of clutch rock is normal, I've been educated on that point.

I ground off a tenth of an inch from the depth of the clutch basket to help stop case clouting.

The rocking of the clutch had been increased by the rocking of the inner driven hub on the splines of the clutch flange (which sits on the main shaft taper).

To cut to the chase, rightly or wrongly, ground/machined 4 to 5 thou off the outboard end of the clutch flange. This took up most of the rocking of the 'driven hub'. I noticed that the pressed steel 'cup washer' under the main clutch nut was dished convex on the inboard side. I made it almost flat That produced a solid inner driven hub wrt the mainshaft. That didn't seem right either. A ~4th step was machined back onto the inboard of cup washer to allow it to tighten hard onto the 'clutch flange' but not hard onto the end of the splines of the 'driven clutch hub'. The final result is very slight rock of the inner hub and slight rotational play restrained by the spline arrangement.

The clutch was re-assembled and now the rock is significantly less, much more like the amount of rock I remember when putting my Matchless G3LS together.

Now just the usual crap electrics which shorted out and needed hot-wiring to get me back home on my first ever ride on the bike and the ubiquitous primary case oil leak to sort out. Thought it was a nice ride tho.

[wetdog]

the crank nut still looks a long way out , the washer you talk about is stepped as standard , there should be no play on the hub centre splines , I see you have converted to 12v a good idea but not sure about spade conections inside the primary . they are a very nice engine and one of the smoothest triumph I have ever had .

[Rex]

Good that you've got it cracked. I've never worried too much about modifying components in this way, after all, it's better to be riding it than obsessing over not having the correct 1962 squiggle washer. Mixing and matching 50+ year old parts can be fraught at the best of times anyway, and that's with a mass-produced bike too.

[antoni]

Rex, thank you for my absolution.

The warehouse floor is marked with cubits for a laugh. A foot is such an intuitive measure of length. An inch being a finger knuckle is too. Granted a cubit - about a fore-arm's length - is a bit less useful. Remember that the Ark was built in cubits by an amateur and the Titanic was built in imperial by professionals.

I didn't convert it to 12V and I wish it had not been done.  There's nothing wrong with 6 volt electrics if they are designed, built and maintained properly. A 35 watt bulb is 35 watts whether in a 12 volt or 6 volt system. What matters is that the bulbs get all of their volts and that none of them are stolen by high resistance thin wiring and crappy crimp connections (robbers of a lot of millivolts IME). My 6 volt Matchless was fine coming home last night.

Re the crimp spade connectors, yes dodgy. Worried about oil and temperature resistance of the 'mains wiring' too. But there's so much that's not quite right or just plain wrong about this bike. I just want to get it driveable so my long suffering Matchless can be stood-down for long overdue maintenance and repair. I've got a very nice car but it sits on the drive over the weekend now I've discovered wonderful old bikes.

[wetdog]

I didn't convert it to 12V and I wish it had not been done........................ the alt looks like its setup for 12v , I conterted mine to 12v no problems and lights are quite good , are you having problems

[antoni]

".... the alt looks like its setup for 12v"

Yes, it was set up for 12 volt by a previous owner. Trouble is, the whole electrics are poor. Look at the pic showing the mounting of the zener. Believe me that's typical of the general electrical workmanship. I'm going to leave it like that for a while and hope for a few smiles.

But I need to sort out the wiring so that it doesn't short when everything which should be grounded is grounded. That's what happens at the moment.

No point explaining this in detail on here but when I got the bike the electrics seemed to rely on a poor electrical contact between the headlamp bowl and its rusty mounts. During the clutch/gearbox test run the vibration wore the rust through and the short stopped the engine. ........but only fried the fitted 30 amp battery fuse - didn't part it.

Stop typing stop drinking go into the shed and sort it.