fast ariel 500

[R]

Can recall a former Dealer mentioning that when, postwar, Ariels announced their range,
they ordered quite a sizeable batch of Red Hunters.
http://www.classic-british-motorcycles.com/images/C11-47Ari-Redhtr-R.jpg

When they arrived, they found that they weren't actually Red Hunters at all.
So they had to tell the customers that had ordered them that they had to have a Black Hunter. Or else...
http://www.arielnorthamerica.org/motorcycle/hist5_postwar/1947redhunteradsm.jpg

Apparently there was quite a performance difference. ?

[wetdog]

i know what you mean and after all this time who knows whats been changed , the only part i made sure i have fitted are the steel fly wheels (RH i think , but did try some VB longer stroke but iron ) and it wont be rode far its just for fun . the RH where made in 250,350,500 but the 250 was droped after/during the war , i was going to use one of the  all alloy engines i have but dont want to damage them (yet) as now they are harder to find . having said all that thanks for the advice ? 33d6 its totally useless and has nothing to do with building a faster ariel

[john.k]

The single lobe/forked follower cam is 1951 on,and the all alloy motor is either a VHA(1953) or a HS .The HS was the sport model and had two different cam profiles fitted in later years .The HS came out in 1947 with a magnesium crankcase and a six stud barrel fixing which will not fit any other model,the later HS simply had standard cases and an ally barrel and head.There are a number of people doing cam grinds ,including one in New Zealand who is well recommended.I would suggest you check out the AOMCC  forum,its free and the members are generous with information(unlike the POC crowd who want 20 quid for the time of day).Regards John.

[wetdog]

""""""I would suggest you check out the AOMCC  forum,its free and the members are generous with information(unlike the POC crowd who want 20 quid for the time of day)""""""""" ....... i know what you mean ive been a member of both in the past but have little time for either now , these one mark clubs can be very protective of the information they hold , but most appear to be on the decline member ship wise , maybe as a lot is now free on the net . eg in the past ive joined clubs just for dating information for reserch not dvla (i know you have to pay for the letter)

[jerry57]

I have a special very hot cam for single Ariel, not a HS cam but Hartley's replica. I made a short stroke engine, using later crankcase, modified steel flywheel to fit the crankcase, 1932 iron barrel ... crazy bike.
I have to rebuilt a 250 cc with a competition engine and also a model G.
Could swap a hot cam with followers with needle bearings for a Burman 4 speed to fit my Ariel VH 32.

[wetdog]

i have a Hartley's cam (it was made into a standard profile for some ariels i think ) but i have not seen neddle bearing forked followers , can you post a pic thanks , the highest tune cam i have is the one piece all iron type which i am going to try.

[TONY REGAN]

Okay, I've raced Ariel's since 1977 on and off,so first rule : begin simply with stock parts and develop it.
I began with VH 500 1949 and in mind to race in Vintage sidecar class,so steel flywheels if you plan to rev them which has different  parallel pin and cage to iron wheels (taper ).I then raised the oil level in the camchest drilling a 3/16" hole to the left of basecircle of cam and then get a short piece of 3/16" bundy tube and put slight S' bend into it so it goes from drainhole in timing cover into the old crankcase drainhole adjacent to the crank pinion,this takes any unwanted oil from timing cover and stops magneto drowning in oil etc,buy extra tube as you may not get it right first time,remember smooth bends and seall with Hylomar at each end. If you have a post-war pump in good order fine ,pre-war change it and change to R40,it's the only oil that takes hammer from hot iron engines,also I ran mine on Methanol,but if you only plan short sprints etc not yet necessary. I ran initially with B50 genuine BSA stock piston to up compression. Bear in mind overboring weakens barrel which is only base-studded, I have an 88mm 2-valve Jawa pistoned barrel but that's thru' bolted,a lot of work. I initially used standard valves but then went to JAP inlet,a little larger and ideally once you've done a season go for something with 5/16" stem for better flow,leave that standard exhaust valve in there,nos is best as I've experienced pattern fusion-welded valves where head drops in and costly,soif it attracts a magnet forget it. Cam was standard single lobe A cam to begin and then reground to HS timing,some people also add Mk3 followers. Springs initially were standard softies 422? I think, Do not fit the Terry's so-called HS springs , they'll wipe out your cam and levers in no time. When you get it reliable and change valves put W+S Goldstar multi-rate springs in with top collars and cotters,you'll need dural bottom packers and JAP insulators ,oh and a pen and paper. Carb size try 1 3/16". Just remember reliable finisher,hope this helps,T

[TONY REGAN]

Couple of small items,the overbore for B50 piston: you need to make up new small-end bush as BSA is 3/4" pin and Ariel 7/8",also I recall at first using 1/8" compression plate under the barrel for safe clearance of valves on standard springs .Standard B50 piston 84mm makes it 527cc and 40 thou over 540ccbut then things get thin. I rotated timing chest breather 180 degrees, took ball out and routed pipe to rear to free-up pumping . Rocker feed; from front of timing cover a bit feeble and prone to fracture so either blank off or fit later cover and T' off return line to rockerboxes.
Bearings for mains ; in ideal world rollers for timing side and inner drive side with ball outer drive side,but I've running a 350 for 20years with good quality ball races ,hope this helps.T

[mark2]

interesting as I have a Ariel also , I have tried to message Wetdog but he has either left or been blocked/kicked off the forum , and reading some of his posts im not surprised

[Bomber]

I haven't seen or heard of him for a while, hope he's ok, a prickly character but well worth knowing.