Ultima 350 total loss oil levals

[Ultimatoby]

Hi all I am in the process of getting a 1932 Ultima b2x 350 going. I think I understand the principle of the total loss oiling system with the pump delivering about 8 drops per minuet straight into the crankcase. The info I can't find is how much oil should be in the crankcase to start with, I am assuming it should not be started when dry. Any help would be much appreciated thanks Toby

[Rex]

Did you buy this bike back in July off Ebay?
Eight drops a minute sounds a lot for a four-stroke, but if that's what the makers recommend then stick to it.
As for getting oil flowing, maybe the time-honoured methods of kicking it over, using a drill to turn the engine over or even the daft "take it for a walk" method.
Ant of those will help, along with sloshing some oil into the oil pump to prime it.

[Ultimatoby]

Hi yes I bought it in July and most of it is good and original. As for the oil pump I have run it up on the bench and it works ok I was moor wondering how much oil should be in the crankcase to start with. As far as I can find manufactures instructions are non existent. 

[33d6]

Obviously you don't want to start it with too little in it and if you start with too much it will just keep smoking for ages until the engine has blown all the excess oil out the exhaust. Fine for your peace of mind but unpopular with just about everyone else in the neighbourhood. The smokescreen can be unbelievable.
There's never a great deal in the crankcase. Once the level hits the flywheels it gets thrown everywhere and the smoke screen results. The usual running level is just enough for engine and road vibration plus windage from the spinning internals to cause the oil to be flung everywhere without there being so much the flywheels are constantly running in it which results in excessive smoking.
The amount can be surprisingly small. Usually not much more than an eggcupful or so but it depends heavily on the design of your crankcase doesn't it. Does the Ultima follow the usual pattern of the day or have some mysterious sump design peculiar to itself?  I wouldn't think so but I don't know.
I'd suggest you take out the sump plug then try to estimate how much oil it will take to barely touch the flywheels and start from there.
The usual blurb for total loss systems often suggests you've got it right when there is a 'slight haze' from the exhaust. Thats fine when the piston is as original with compression rings only and no oil ring but isn't much help if a later oil scraper ring has been fitted. No oil haze then. Fitting an oil scraper ring is a bit pointless on a total loss system anyway, it won't improve the oil consumption will it.
Tell us how you get on.
 

[Ultimatoby]

 Thank you this is just the sort of info I was after. The crankcase has minimal clearance with the crankshaft so I will start as you suggested with about an eggcup full and take it from there. It actually has a brass tap on the bottom of the crankcase to drain off oil, I assume for  roadside use when you cant see the road behind. The bore is good but there is about 20thou. piston clearance and there has been an oil ring fitted. I may fit a tap so the oil feed can be shut off, with an oil scraper ring I would have thought it would be prone to over oiling. Lots to think about just need to get it on the road and see what happens. Thanks again Toby

[cardan]

Hi Toby,

Total loss engines with a mechanical oil pump were a bit of a "half way house" before dry sump lubrication became the norm. The oil "pump" was more like a metering device. Do you have a hand pump as well? If so, at the start of each day drain the sump (or better still, drain the oil at the end of your run, when it's hot and the floaties are mixed into it) and add a pump or two of fresh oil before starting. If it doesn't have a hand pump it was likely designed to just be left as is with old oil in the crankcase. But we're too kind for that - find somewhere to put a few squirts of oil in with your oil can. Somewhere that oils the cams is good, as it often takes a while for the oil mist to get into the timing chest.

With 20 thou piston clearance you won't get much enjoyment out of it, even if you can get it running. If you go down the rebore + new piston path, just leave the oil ring out.

Cheers
Leon

[Ultimatoby]

Thanks Leon there is no hand pump so I will take your advice and drain oil and refill there is access to the top of the timing case via the breather which feeds through via a crankcase bolt to  a hole by the primary chain, no shortage of weird and wonderful designee features. Looking at my notes 20 thou. is the oil ring gap not the piston gap (slight laps on the memory side), the boor seems good with no lipping at all and compression is not bad. I have started the engine for a short while and it responded to the throttle so hopefully all is well. When and if it is going properly I will post some photos. Thanks again for you input Toby