A10 front brake cables

[rgsjohn]

Does anyone know if the BSA A10 s/s 8" brake cable is the same size as for the Eddie Dow Duetto twin leading shoe brake?

[chaterlea25]

Hi John,
I would say its different ?
Mine is home made 

John

[rgsjohn]

The problem for me is that I can't solder. John what are the dimensions? I could get one made if I knew that

[R]

I've just done this for something obscure where nothing is available off the shelf.
You take an old bit of outer, and run it in wide curves from the handlebar lever to
the brake anchor point, and measure. And with a bit of string, run from the handlebar lever,
and run in those same wide curves, to the brake lever anchor point, and measure.
That gives you the inner and outer lengths.
And figure out what fittings this will need at each end, to tell your maker.

I then went and bought a suitable cable which I knew was longer, and trimmed it down to suit.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/VZIAAOSwRg5gGMH2/s-l1600.jpg
Being able to solder made this easier - its not difficult.
Getting the solder to actually stick is the trick - flux is important !

[Rex]

Flux, along with absolute cleanliness, that's most important.
Learn how to do it and you'll never have an ill-fitting cable again.

[iansoady]

I agree entirely. However, a front brake might not be the ideal first attempt......

One of the first jobs I usually do on any newly purchased bike is to make up new control cables as they're invariably the wrong length, kinked, have their plastic coat damaged, have loose ferrules and inevitably have never been lubricated. How people ride with cables like these I'll never know.

Many years ago I went to one of the VMCC "try a vintage bike" days at Curborough. One of the bikes was a tatty Ariel 500. When I'd finished my stint I tried to pull up next to the owner and the front brake nipple pulled off. He berated me for wrecking his bike. I did point out that I might have saved his life as it was better to happen when it did than when he needed to stop in ahurry.

[R]

The strands in the cable MUST be splayed out enough before soldering that they can't pull through,
like you say.

I silver solder those squidgy little nipples, if they look like they may not be strong enough.
Care must be taken that the metal doesn't run back up the cable, or it will not be flexible enough.

[Rex]

Silver solder? I'd never use that as the heat required will de-temper the cable.
Good old plumber's solder for me, just as originally done.

[Vreagh]

I have a cheap 240v chineseium solder pot, splay the cable strands, dip into the Baker's fluid and into the molten plumbers solder. Allow to cool then a good clean to get rid of the corrosive Baker's fluid and trim off any wayward splayed strands etc. The pot is also useful for soldering wiring bullet connectors but using wiring solder and non-corrosive flux.

[iansoady]

Agree, silver solder needs far to high a heat. And plumber's solder isn't ideal as it has a period where it is soft but neither moleten nor solid. Tinman's solder is the stiff - 60% tin, 40% lead (known as eutectic). I've used multicore for decades with no problems.