Author Topic: Changing A65 to Export spec' Bars  (Read 7744 times)

Offline Old-Nail

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Changing A65 to Export spec' Bars
« on: June 18, 2007, 02:25:56 AM »
Hi all,

I have only just ventured into British bike ownership by purchasing a 1970 BSA Lightning, and I have sooo much to learn! :o

My particular bike wears a chrome 'export' tank but flat UK style handlebars and my question will perhaps be seen as a no-brainer to seasoned Brit-bike owners but could someone advise me on the following points:

To convert to export style higher 'bars I assume the control cables will need replacing with longer items?  If so is there a good source of ready to fit ones available?

Will the wiring to the horn etc. reach the higher bars or does that part of the harness need extending also?

And finally, where would I get a pair of those under tank reflectors as fitted to export models as standard?

Ooh!... and finally finally, if I decided to just revert to the UK style petrol tank of the correct 1970 A65L type, which other models was that tank used on, or was the tank specific to that one machine?

Sorry if these seem rather obvious questions folks but I'm a recent convert from more modern machinery!


Offline L.A.B.

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Re: Changing A65 to Export spec' Bars
« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2007, 04:28:07 AM »
Quote
To convert to export style higher 'bars I assume the control cables will need replacing with longer items?  If so is there a good source of ready to fit ones available?

Welcome, Old-Nail

Originally there would have been a set of 'export' cables to match the export bars (with their own specific part numbers), and if you mention export type to a BSA parts supplier then they should know which length cables you will need (provided they are standard type A65 export bars?)

However if you want to, you can obtain cables from specialist cable suppliers like Venhills: http://www.venhill.co.uk/ as they will have records of all the various cable types and sizes, and you can verify how much extra length they need to be by measuring.  

Quote
Will the wiring to the horn etc. reach the higher bars or does that part of the harness need extending also?

The original switch wiring may be long enough, but it's difficult to say on an old bike without seeing it, look inside the headlamp shell and see if there is any spare length switch harness inside that could be pulled out? Or you could re-wire the switches?  

Quote
And finally, where would I get a pair of those under tank reflectors as fitted to export models as standard?

I think the type you need is the Lucas 57173 (BSA part 19-1035)?

I suggest you try C&D Autos for those and any other spares you may need (cables?)
http://pages.eidosnet.co.uk/~canddautos/



Quote
Ooh!... and finally finally, if I decided to just revert to the UK style petrol tank of the correct 1970 A65L type, which other models was that tank used on, or was the tank specific to that one machine?

It would also have been used on the very similar UK A65T (Thunderbolt) model, and maybe the A50 model as well?
There were three tanks available for 1970 I think, the steel US 2 Gal. tank, UK and general export 4 Gal. tank and also a fibreglass tank ('70 US A65F?)?  



« Last Edit: June 18, 2007, 04:33:14 AM by L.A.B. »
L.A.B.

Offline Old-Nail

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Re: Changing A65 to Export spec' Bars
« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2007, 06:27:25 AM »
Thanks for the info L.A.B.

The easiest route for me would be to simply return the Tank to UK spec, although I would really like to have a UK tank and the US one and interchange them!  :)

Would the Starfire tank also be compatible perhaps? it looks the same and may be a little easier to find.

Offline L.A.B.

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Re: Changing A65 to Export spec' Bars
« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2007, 06:46:46 AM »
Quote
Would the Starfire tank also be compatible perhaps? it looks the same and may be a little easier to find.

Maybe? I really don't know. The part numbers are different but that's no guarantee that it wouldn't fit?
L.A.B.

Offline Blue

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Re: Changing A65 to Export spec' Bars
« Reply #4 on: June 19, 2007, 07:43:49 PM »
This is from Roy Bacon's book BSA Twin Restoration



So you can probably get away with the Firebird tank (steel, of course).  
Most of them were red but had the option of blue (I think the colour was "Nutley Blue")

82-9801 is the part number if thats any help
« Last Edit: June 19, 2007, 07:49:19 PM by Blue »

Offline VintageBike

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Re: Changing A65 to Export spec' Bars
« Reply #5 on: June 20, 2007, 03:14:41 AM »

Offline Old-Nail

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Re: Changing A65 to Export spec' Bars
« Reply #6 on: June 20, 2007, 05:01:27 AM »
Yep!

The tank above in Blue's post is the one I think the bike should have had, but I have the export one which is why I asked about changing the 'bars.

having said that I think the handlebars fitted are quite comfy and will probably grow on me!

Offline L.A.B.

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Re: Changing A65 to Export spec' Bars
« Reply #7 on: June 20, 2007, 05:06:04 AM »
I really don't see any reason to change that, -at all!!
L.A.B.

Offline Old-Nail

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Re: Changing A65 to Export spec' Bars
« Reply #8 on: June 20, 2007, 05:25:41 AM »
Thanks LAB it is a nice one I think, still getting to know it yet.

After 30 years of riding Japanese bikes I am finding the conversion to a BSA something of a culture shock.  :o

The vibrations that I had steeled myself in readiness for aren't actually that bad so I'm pleasantly surprised there, the other stuff like the gear lever on the 'wrong' (sorry) side will I'm sure become easier with time.

The real biggie for me is going to be the spanner wielding as previously I have never had a bike break down or had anything much to repair.

My first thing to need fettling are the steering head bearings which appear loose, I can't imagine they are worn as the previous owner has kept the bike in good shape overall so perhaps they just need adjusting?

Can anyone tell this spanner novice/ mechanically unskilled fella the procedure so I might tighten them up?

Offline L.A.B.

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Re: Changing A65 to Export spec' Bars
« Reply #9 on: June 20, 2007, 05:48:23 AM »
To adjust the head bearings:

Place a support under the engine/frame so that the front wheel is off the ground.

Push and pull the forks to check for any play, and turn from them from lock to lock to check for any roughness or jerky movement.

To adjust loose bearings:
 
Remove the damper rod.

Slacken the stem pinch bolt and two bottom fork yoke pinch bolts.

Screw the nut on the top of the stem clockwise by small amounts until all the play is removed (forks should still fall easily from lock to lock).

Tighten the three pinch bolts and replace the damper rod.



L.A.B.