Author Topic: T140 regulator/rectifier replacement  (Read 323 times)

Offline Eedward

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T140 regulator/rectifier replacement
« on: July 14, 2019, 09:59:24 AM »
Morning chaps and chapesses.

Can I ask please, what are your thoughts about replacing the regulator/rectifier with something along the lines of a Wassell or similar solid state one ? Who has done this, were there any benefit over the original setup, eg starting/running etc, and how easy/hard are they to fit ?

My bike starts fairly well, only a few kicks needed, though I think would benefit from a card set up, as it doesn't always tick over when up to temp, unless the tick over is raised a little.

Thanks,
Edward

Offline iansoady

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Re: T140 regulator/rectifier replacement
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2019, 10:22:14 AM »
Wassell stuff doesn't have the best reputation although I used one of their dynamo regulators on an A10 with no trouble. It will make no difference to starting or running. If your existing setup (full wave rectifier / Zener diode?) is working I'd leave it alone.

Your tickover problem is indeed likely to be carburettor related. I would expect a T140 in decent nick to start second kick at worst.
Ian
1952 Norton ES2
1982 Moto Guzzi V50

Offline L.A.B.

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Re: T140 regulator/rectifier replacement
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2019, 10:08:46 PM »
were there any benefit over the original setup, eg starting/running etc,

As iansoady said, unless the existing charging system is faulty then you are unlikely to notice any difference in starting and running.


and how easy/hard are they to fit?

(Positive earth T140V)
A simple matter of disconnecting (or removing) the rectifier and Zener diode, and, depending on where the box is to be mounted, connecting the four reg/rec box wires to the existing wiring.
These boxes normally have two yellow 'AC' wires, any one of which should be connected to the alternator stator output green/yellow and the other yellow to stator white/green.
A red (positive) connects to harness red/battery positive and, usually black (negative) connects to the harness brown/blue negative wire.   

My bike starts fairly well, only a few kicks needed, though I think would benefit from a card carb set up, as it doesn't always tick over when up to temp, unless the tick over is raised a little.

If they are the original Amal Concentric Mk1 carbs then the slides/bodies are likely to be well worn out by now in which case they will be almost impossible to keep in tune for more than a short while or maintain a steady idle without constant attention.
L.A.B.

Offline TGR90B

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Re: T140 regulator/rectifier replacement
« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2019, 10:14:23 AM »
More likely to be crap in the drillings.
Getting grumpy.

Offline iansoady

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Re: T140 regulator/rectifier replacement
« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2019, 11:14:17 AM »
Or both......
Ian
1952 Norton ES2
1982 Moto Guzzi V50