Cylinder head torque

[stevethon]

Does anyone know where I can get an attatchment for a torque wrench in order to torque my barrels.It's for a 69 t100 so you know the problem of not being able to get a normal socket in because of the fins.(I think it's 1/4 whitworth).
Thanks

[TBS]

Actually Triumph never torqued the barrell nuts, I just tighten them evenly all round , put the motor through a heat cycle, let cool over night and re-tighten, keep doing this 'till they stop moving.

[stevethon]

Cheers for that.I'll give it a go over the weekend.

[Helix]

Head bolts/nuts are all fine threads and shouldn't be over-tightened; use a ring spanner and pull with your little finger in the opposite end.  This way you get even tension with minimal risk of stripping.

Helix

[stevethon]

Hi there,
Thanks for your reply but I should state the job is securing the barrels to the engine casings, not the head (my fault due to subject heading).Would you still use the same method?i.e. no torque?

[TBS]

They need to be tight, so pull down evenly and quite hard.

[Blue]

Hi there,
Thanks for your reply but I should state the job is securing the barrels to the engine casings, not the head (my fault due to subject heading).Would you still use the same method?i.e. no torque?

I think that everyone has guessed this is what you meant.  Just to clarify however:
You do NOT need a torque wrench for the barrel flange/crankcase joint.  Follow TBS and Helix' instruction.
You DO need a torque wrench for the barrel/cylinder head joint.  18 ft/lbs is the standard for 8-stud heads, but you'd be best to double check with model-specific data.

Blue

P.S. When tightening the cylinder barrel-flange to the crankcases, tighten them in a similar sequence as the head - i.e. in a criss-cross pattern across the crankcase mouth

[stevethon]

Head and Barrels are now back on as advised,all seems to be fine with no leaks.Thanks for the help everyone.