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Messages - joe90

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1
British Bikes / Re: Battery problem Triumph 650
« on: May 20, 2009, 07:45:31 PM »
Justin - thanks for the info, I'll try a sealed battery this time

52t-bird - All bikes I've ever had, I've fitted a kill switch under the seat, just along from the fuse to completely isolate the battery (and as a crude anti theft device).  Also not using the zennor diode as I have a modern regulator and I'm sure the instructions said disconnect it.  I think it must have been a duff battery or its been shaken to bits.

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British Bikes / Battery problem Triumph 650
« on: May 17, 2009, 11:01:39 PM »
I have a 1970 Triumph TR6P 650, completed renovation about 18 months ago.  Virtually the last thing I bought was a new battery - a cheap lead acid traditional type - which has now had it - it won't keep a charge.  The bikes electrics are standard, points not electronic ignition, except I have a modern rectifier.  I am ashamed to say that I have only covered about 1500 miles but I keep the battery charged over winter.

When the bike is running and with a volt meter across the battery terminals it reads over 12v and goes up when reved, so I think the alternator is ok and charging properly.  The bike runs fine, did a 90mile round trip last week, although I never use it at night.

Is this likely to have been a duff battery? is there a better one/type I should get?  I want to add indicators so there will be greater drain soon.  Should I look at LED bulbs for low current draw?  Is a halogen headlight lower current?  I would be grateful for advice or to hear any experience.

3
British Bikes / Re: Triumph TR6 dual seat
« on: December 27, 2008, 04:48:40 PM »
Thanks once again for your help LAB.  TMS also agree that only one pair seat hinges made for the period, but I ordered some anyway.  They did turn out to be slightly shorter than mine but not short enough to allow the seat to sit on the frame.  So I used the rear hinge for the front and re-made the front into a much smaller one for the rear.  After a great deal heating, bending, trial fitting and fine adjustment, it sits on the frame really well.  Also re-made the battery carrier to lower the battery (and now insulated the -ve terminal).  All painted and sorted now.  All I can think is the seat must be wrong and the dish in the base should be deeper to make the correct hinges work.  Photo shows how small I had to make the rear hinge.

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British Bikes / Re: Triumph TR6 dual seat
« on: December 21, 2008, 06:00:35 PM »
It's taken quite a while to get round to this (failed house sale in between) but just started to look at it again.  After a lot of telephone calls, I was told to forget part numbers and just specify the year.  I went for a cheap patten part in the end but was assured it is correct for my bike.  "fits all 1969 -70 T120s". It doesn't look too bad at all for a cheap one and even has the textured surface which I am told is correct.  ( P&P seats in Birmingham sound like one of the best - they have been around for 40years but unfortunately too expensive for me)

With the rubber bumpers fitted it sits really well on the frame, but 2 problems, it only fits without the battery and with the hinges on its way too high, the rubber bumpers are about 25mm off the frame at the back.  I am now thinking that the depth of the "dish" on the underside of the seat pan is not deep enough.  Some questions:-
1.  Am I correct in assuming that the rubber bumpers should sit on the frame?
2.  Did Triumph change the seat heights and if so, was this done with the seat shape or the hinges?
3.  Are there different length hinges available?
4.  Front and back hinges are different lengths which way round should they go?
5.  I am thinking of ordering new hinges, my book says 82-7862 and 82-8026, does anyone have the measurements for these, mine sit about 70mm and 80mm high, no point in buying new ones if I just end up with what I have already got.
6.  Are there different height rubber bumpers, for my hinges to work with my new seat the bumpers would have to be over 25mm thick - seems unlikely.

Added photo.  Would be interested in similar photo if anyone has one of underside of T120 seat 69-70.  Mine is TR6 but I am assuming same frame as T120.

Thanks  Joe

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British Bikes / Re: Triumph TR6 dual seat
« on: August 26, 2008, 08:39:40 PM »
Thanks chaps, I'll do some phoning around tomorrow.  I've got fed up with the one that's on the bike, after a long ride out on bank holiday decided enough.  It must be an old aftermarket one, it has a fibreglass base and won't sit properly on the frame.

6
British Bikes / Triumph TR6 dual seat
« on: August 25, 2008, 10:33:40 PM »
Can anyone recommend a good place to get hold of a new or second hand dual seat for a 1970 TR6 (pre OIF).  Also, I would be grateful if anyone knows the correct part number, I have seen a number of different ones suggested.  I think it might be 82-9996, thanks

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British Bikes / Re: Triumph 750 Bonneville wet sumpingII
« on: February 27, 2008, 05:07:15 AM »
There is probably far better advice from experts here and I'm sure you'll get other suggestions soon, but for starters - did you check the scavenge pipe before putting the crankcases together? if this is damaged or leaking then it wont draw its designed quantity of oil from the sump.  I'm not sure how you can check this with the engine assembled but I am guessing you could push a tube on the filter end, block the oil pump drilling and see if it holds pressure.  You say oil is returning to the oil tank and the pump is new, otherwise I would suspect the pump - weak spring or ball not seating correctly.  Don't understand why the left hand cylinder is burning oil if you have rebored?  Could you have snapped a ring on assembly?  Might be an idea to add a comment on how many miles you have covered since the rebuild.

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British Bikes / Triumph 650 restoration
« on: November 12, 2007, 06:47:10 AM »
Thought you might like to see a picture of my 650 TR6P just finished restoring apart from the engine plate and a few transfers.  Thanks for all the help over the past 18months, especially LAB and TBS.  After a couple of kicks to release the clutch and draw some petrol it started 1st kick after turning ignition on - 1st time running for 26 years.  Can't quite bring myself to stick the rubber pads on the tank!

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British Bikes / Re: What's the sequence for restoring a bike?
« on: October 16, 2007, 06:28:27 AM »
If you are retaining original nuts bolts and washers and getting them plated, you will at some point have to take off all the carefully made labels, empty all the packets and mix everything into a large biscuit tin to get a job lot done.  The plater will put the whole lot in a basket for chemical cleaning and the plating process, you'll get the whole lot back all mixed up.  Here's the clever bit - before you start arrange them on A4 sheets of white paper - put in sensible groups and the right washers and nuts with bolts etc.  Put a ruler at the bottom of the page and take a digital photo.  Print photo out life size (check against ruler) and then get your wife to match up the parts when you get the biscuit tin back ( much better fun than a jigsaw).  You can then put the labels back on - put into separate bags etc and Bob's your uncle.

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British Bikes / Re: 1970 TR6P Engine rebuild
« on: October 17, 2007, 07:17:05 AM »
I'm glad I asked now! and an excellent tip.  Just finished doing it and the valve/piston clearance is about 100 thou which should be ok.  Valve spring length measure is about 1/32 too long but have no means to make shims except take it all back to machine shop so I'm going to let that one go.  Presumably this means spring force is a tad weak.  "Crush" on seals is about 80thou so I'm going for that  and will put it all together for real tomorrow.  Thanks again, Joe.

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British Bikes / 1970 TR6P Engine rebuild
« on: October 16, 2007, 06:18:40 AM »
Just getting round to rebuilding top end after long wait for cylinder head from machine shop.  In my gasket set I appear to have a choice of pushrod tube bottom seals - the white neoprene ones - 5mm, 4mm and 3mm thick.  Bolting the head on without the seal or top O ring there is a 4mm gap - should I use the 4mm seal or go for the thicker one.  Using the 4mm seal would mean that everything would have to compress by the thickness of the O ring, ie about 2mm.  I dont want to damage anything trying to put seals in that are too thick but I obviously want to avoid leaks.  The machine shop guy said he took 8 thou off the head.

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British Bikes / Re: TR6 Engine rebuild
« on: September 12, 2007, 03:55:55 AM »
Thanks, just off to do it now!

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British Bikes / Re: TR6 Engine rebuild
« on: September 11, 2007, 06:43:38 AM »
Thanks for the oil information, I have another question!  Is it advisable to use gasket cement on the cylinder base gasket, just use grease, or nothing?  The Haynes manual says "no gasket cement".  After going to all this trouble I am hoping for something reatively oil tight.

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British Bikes / Re: TR6 Engine rebuild
« on: September 08, 2007, 07:28:50 AM »
The 3 crankcase holes are tiny so I think I will leave out the oil seal.  Thanks again for a timely reply as I intend to start rebuilding the clutch and primary drive tomorrow morning 8.00am sharp!

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British Bikes / TR6 Engine rebuild
« on: September 08, 2007, 05:41:02 AM »
Yes me again, still trying to get my 1970 TR6P back together!  This engine has the breather on the rear of the primary chaincase and I am told that the engine breathes through the crankshaft main bearing and hence you do not fit the oil seal behind the crankshaft sprocket, oil returns through 3 small drillings in the side of the crankcase, is this correct?  Presumably therefore the chaincase should contain similar oil to the engine as it will mix, what is the best oil grade to use?

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