classic motorcycle forum

I have a 1937 Ariel which has developed the same problem and am about to go into the shed to throw some spanners around. Having asked a few experts it seems that these boxes often develop too much end float on the mainshaft so that the clutch pushrod spends half its travel taking up the slack from the end float, therefore creating clutch drag. I've also been told that this is often due to the nut coming loose (kickstart end) or maybe some wear in the bearing (also kickstart end).

The remedy to the first cause is usually straight forward so long as the thread has not bee chewed up in which case it might be recoverable with a thread file (I did this one on a CP box which is mostly the same as the BA box).

The remedy to the second cause means taking the box apart. Some people then use shims and this is where your remnants of coffee tin have probably come from.

Do you have a shed with some 1930 Ariel Model G Parts sitting on a shelf?

I'm looking for SS49 headlamp, silencers, competition mag, hand change mechanism, 4598 Amal, Chrome tank and any 'type 10' engine parts.

Thanks - Dave

dave@barkshire.co.uk

Emillio,

You could try contacting Peter Cornelius cornelp@xtra.co.nz who publishes booklets for vintage Triumphs.

Ariel used the SA box from 1928 on the models A and E. These were the budget models although the SA is possible a better item than the Burman used on the other models. The look of these Burmans is quite distinct and they come up on ebay about once every thousand years for about a million pounds.

There are lots of detailed debates about oils for old bikes which go into intense details about molecules and flattened poymer repeat units and the like.

Many people seem to generally agree that monograde (non-synthetic) is most suitable (typically 40 sae)  although many use multigrade with no trouble. It does depend up the climate and if you don't live in an extreme climate then mongrade should be fine.

In 1951 petrol and oil were not as good as they were today (by a long way) so even the cheapest of products will probably be better than what the bike was designed for.

Because old Brits tend to 'dirty' their oil fairly quickly it is better in my opinion to buy a cheaper oil and change it regularly than to spend money on expensive oils and the difference in price can be substantial. I know people who run their old Brits on lawn mower oil which is probably better than 1951 premium oil.

Because you have a Norton it is likely that any oil you put in the primary chain case will navigate its way to the road and rear tyre. You can try bathroom silicon sealant and other things on the case but I tend to spray chain lube on the chain (through the hole) and leave the oil out.

Gearbox oil ahould be around 90 viscosity and remember to check it at least once a year if not more as many people think that gearbox oil is never 'consumed' which is not true. My Norton gearbox would somtimes have a problem with condinsation which meant water would collect inside so do check for this every now and then.

The 1929 Ariel is a very good machine and there are plenty of people who would like one. These OHV motorcycles are very capable and can be ridden hard and far. There is an active Ariel club in Denmark as well as the international AOMCC which is based in the UK and both of these organisations would put out the word.

As far as value goes it really does depend upon how complete it is and how original it is. In good original roadworthy condition they fetch about £4k although a tatty one or a very good will be in the £3k-£5k. One that has been off the road for a while and has question marks over the innards will cost less and being in Norway someone will have to add a lot of expenses to the price which goes against you. Ebay is another option. You need to put up photos to get any better indication than that which can be done on this forum.

http://www.arielownersmcc.co.uk
http://www.arielklubben.dk

Here is a photo of what a 29 500 Ariel should look like.

Chris, Thanks for your comments. Since my last posting I've been speaking to quite a few people about Gs and am absorbing as much information as I can. According to the AOMCC there are 13 known to exist worldwide so they are very rare. I've been told that my G left the works as a proper G but since then as parts have needed replacing some of the G parts have gone. I'm sure that your G will do 80mph as there are a few AOMCC riders who ride their Black Ariels at high speeds and seem to get away with it. I have a 1926 model D which I have taken up to 65mpg and it was beginning to become a little skittish at that speed with the bumps in the road but the engine had much more to give. If you have the list of G serial numbers in electronic format could you email it to me? ( dave@barkshire.co.uk ).  Regards - Dave

Chris
It looks like you have had a lot of work to do. I've never heard a bad word said about these machines so it will be worth it in the end. Mine will take me through the usual research channels and I'll probably not do anything dramatic with it until I have sorted out some of the other non runners in the garage which are so close and need that final push. The G is a road legal runner and has been modified (foot change) so I will need to get to know it first and then decide what direction to take. I also need to find out if it is a real G or a Gee'd up F. I know that chroming tanks costs a fortune nowadays but will cross that bridge when I come to it. I got a brand new tank for the 1937 Red Hunter from India which was chromed very well which was much cheaper than having my old tank sorted out. There are plenty of people in the AOMCC who know these machines inside out and they will be able to put me straight. I hope to have the Ariel by the end of December of mid Jan at the latest and will post some photos at that time.
Regs - Dave