classic motorcycle forum

The tubes are tatty and a crap design by the $%^s in Triumph. They CAN be improved upon by fatter and flatter ends and better O ring fitment and groove to help them seal properly. They are over 40 years old now and have had a hard life. What I need to know is, has anyone else done this before so mas I do not have to make their mistakes. I know there are after market ones available but, I prefer to make my own. I've done everything else on the bike, so why not these?

My T100R has tatty pushrod tubes. I intend to make some new ones from alloy tubing. I will use the old ones as a pattern.
 Has anyone done this before, and is there any way to improve the possibility of curing the oil leaks, such as O ring grooves or steps etc.

There is usually a trader at Stafford that does that sort of thing. He does tool boxes, chainguards and anything that is pressed steel. Don@t know his name unfortunately, but he is usually there.

Fat chance! Only done about 100 miles so far. Not even long enough to do anything. So I will ride it and see what happens. Rode it at the weekend, going really well, but the smoke does seem to be a little less, and not a whiff of smoke when motor is warmed up.

Valve guides were fitted by a chap with more experience than your average vintage bike builder. Everything looks good on the head and the bores, rings pistons etc. The biggest dilemma is, Why does it not smoke after two minutes running? When it is cold it fills the garage with so much smoke that you cannot see the back of the workshop. When warmed up, it hardly smokes at all. If it were guides, then surely it would smoke mostly on over run and not continuously. And why does it smoke less when I drain out the sump? It has to be rings and not valves. but WHY if the pistons, rings and bore are in perfect order does it smoke.
 I would still like to ind out how much oil is acceptable in the crank case when the engine is switched off.
 The only logical explanation would be that the rings are sticking in the grooves and/or it needs to warm up a little to expand and for the rings to seal properly.

Oil tank is standard fitment, feed to rockers is all OK. It is the same crankshaft as came out of the motor and nothing on the bottom end is changed. It has approximately 165 cc of oil in the case when drained out. Can anyone please tell me how much they get out of their sump when it is drained after use. If I drain it just after use it is the same amount as when left or a week or more, so it cannot be draining back down from the system, feed or scavenge.

Pistons are T100 jobs from America, can't remember what make, but were supposedly good ones. If the problem was with the pistons it would smoke permanently and not just on start up. T90 pistons are crap, that's the reason why we had the rebuild and fitted a 500 top end, more choice of quality bits. I need to know how much oil is acceptable in the sump, then why it is not scavenging it.

There is smoke, and again there is SMOKE! This is can't see the back of the garage smoke. And on a rebuilt motor with all new bits there is no reason why it should do it. Can't come up with a logical reason yet, but am hoping someone here can help. I don't want to take the motor apart without some idea of what to look for. 

All new valves and guides fitted less than 100 miles ago. It smokes on start up only and goes away after a minute or two. If it were guides then it would only smoke a bit and only on overrun and all the time it was running.
 I took the oil pump out today, cleaned it to within an inch of it's life and re fitted it. Everything seemed ok, but have not yet started it as I would like the gasket goo to harden first. I also checked the scavenge pipe for leaks by fitting a rubber pipe to it and sucking and blowing through it, no air leaks.