classic motorcycle forum

I have a Triton with a Triumph T110 engine, which has been modified with a Nourish / Weslake 8 valve head and 920cc barrel. I had the engine rebuilt and as part of the refurbishing process fitted a new central oil tank. I realised that the new oil tank didn't have a restricted return pipe which provides back pressure to drive the oil to the rockers (T'd off the oil return line). To get around this I decided to feed the rockers from the pressure gauge tapping on the timing cover, adjacent to the pressure relief valve and has the advantage of feeding filtered oil that has been cooled in the main oil tank. This operates at high pressure so I fitted a restrictor into the feed line. This all works well and I get a good supply to the rockers.

However having run the engine in for around 1200 miles I've come to the conclusion that too much oil is getting to the rockers (various symptoms) and so I'm considering going back to the original scheme of feeding the rockers via a T off the oil return line. I've also fitted an oil filter into the oil return line so this will give me some back pressure but I'm considering putting a restrictor into the oil return line.

Does anyone have a view on the size of restrictor I should fit. Due to the design of the oil tank its not possible to crimp the end of the pipe and drill a small hole in it like many factory bikes have.

Best regards

I'm trying to run in my recently rebuilt Triton engine but am being plagued by a misfire in the RH cylinder. I've changed plugs having found one brand new NGK plug to be faulty but its not completely solved the problem. The bike has Lucas Rita ignition with 6V PVL coils and Amal Mk2 concentric carbs. The engine has a 8 valve Nourish head and 920cc barrel. I've also noticed that when I switch on the ignition the ammeter goes into the -ve - is this normal. Thoughts welcome

I never need the choke (even before SRM rebuild) but starting from cold flood both carbs using the ticklers. The bike has Pazon ignition. Rgds

Thanks to all those who kindly responded to my question. I have at long last got to the bottom of this. As pointed out my tacho is driven from the exhaust camshaft clockwise at half engine speed. I had in fact a 1:1 reversing tacho (the sort normally fitted to Norton ). Therefore my 4-1 anticlockwise tacho was reading 2X. I now need to obtain a 2:1 reversing tacho drive (available Speedograph Richfield, Gaggs etc) and hopefully all will be sorted.

I'm trying to set the points on a 1960 BSA A10 which is fitted with a Lucas K2F magneto, they are the later pressed steel type and not the earlier brass bodied type. Not having much success. Do you have to slacken off the central mounting bolt as well as the locking screw in order to adjust the contact breaker gap? Regards

I have a Triton bike which has a Triumph Tiger T110 engine. At some point a different timing case with a Tacho drive has been fitted (with internal gears etc) along with a Smiths Chrononmetric tacho (RC1307 / CO 4-1). I'm convinced the tacho is reading high, ie maybe 2X or higher. Is there any way that the tacho drive can be mixed up to do this. Regards

Gents - thanks for comments. I've found the gearbox in the 1955 parts manual. Is there any way to tell exactly which one it is. The number stamped on top f the gearbox is 70912. Rgds

Gents, thanks for your responses.

The plugs when failed tend to be black and oily / sooty.
The bike has a new pazon ignition system with dual coil.
The carbs are new and they are Amal 930 Concentric. They're as synchronised as I can achieve in terms of throttle opening, tickoever and pilot air.
The bike runs well normally, I have observed different compression at around 130psi with the RH being lower than the LH. Just lately however I have got some low readings (90 - 100 psi) again with the LH being higher than the RH.
I've just given the cylinders an internal examination through the plug hole to primarily look for oil pooling in the valve cut outs on top of the pistons. The piston tops were patchy clean metal / black with flaky carbon on them (I decoked 1500miles ago), there were no pools of oil but the bores looked a black aswell not the smooth polished look I remember. This however may be a reflection from the piston top.
I've also learnt that with electronic ignition and a dual coil one plugs fires normally and the other from the outer to the inner. This does shorten plug life but not to the extent I'm seeing.
I intend to swop over to two 6v coils in the near future but I'm not sure that this is the complete answer. I guess I need to get the head and barrel off and look at the valves and rings this winter.
I've just put in some Champion N4C plugs which are hotter than 8ES so I'll see how they go although I wont be doing much mileage in the next few months.
I'm based in Suffolk, just down the road from Andy Tiernan but they don't operate a  workshop as such and the nearest BSA OC is Norwich.