1971 120rv starting probs

[ron.v]

Hi New on here but hopefully not for long.
Having just woke up the bonnie from her winter sleep I find I have a couple of issues hopefully someone can help
1 On turning on key to first notch red ignition light and tail light come on but when I give it a kick it fires once and red light goes out on subsequent kicks the ignition light goes out even if doesn't fire is this correct.
2 It has a boyer unit and I have gone through the wiring and sorted .

3 It has a new battery and have tested over 13 volts and 100%

4 I have stripped and serviced amal carbs cleaned tank/filters on tank taps and filters on fuel lines on tickling I have fuel

5 Before it was laid up it ran fine.

6 with new plugs out it has a good strong spark.

7 have spoken to boyer and gone through all the tests with them on there unit and that seems fine.

8 ? The main jet that the slide needle (on middle groove) feeds into has 2 fine sideways holes in it should these line up from back to front.

Any help/thoughts would be much  appreciated

Ron

[R]

The choke system (?) seems to be OK and functioning ?

Remove a spark plug, (carefully) tip a teaspoon of fuel into the cylinder, replace sparkplug and lead,
and see if the starting situation improves.
(Don't spill any fuel = fire risk).
May need to be done to both cylinders to actually start and run.

If this makes no difference whatsoever, then its likely electrical.
If it runs, but briefly or really roughly, then the finer passages in the carbs need more cleaning.

Great bub pic. !
hth.

[L.A.B.]

Hi New on here but hopefully not for long.
Having just woke up the bonnie from her winter sleep I find I have a couple of issues hopefully someone can help
1 On turning on key to first notch red ignition light and tail light come on but when I give it a kick it fires once and red light goes out on subsequent kicks the ignition light goes out even if doesn't fire is this correct.

As long as there's no hidden electrical problem, then it would be normal because it's an oil pressure warning light-so it should go out after you begin kicking, because the system is building up oil pressure. Obviously if there is a separate electrical fault then that could also cause the light to go out.

[ron.v]

Ok Karma will try the fuel in bore trick and will have another go at carbs if it works.
And thanks for clearing up light thought it was a straight forward ignition light.
Any one on the main jet very fine holes lining up front to back or can the be in any position.

thanks Ron

[ron.v]

Karma forgot to add no chokes on carbs

Ron

[chaterlea25]

Hi,

Any one on the main jet very fine holes lining up front to back or can the be in any position

The needle jets you are referring to are just nipped up tight into the top of the jet holder
the orientation doesnt matter and cannot be easily positioned in any particular position
On those concentric carbs the pilot passages can easily get blocked if the carbs were not drained
check that the two tiny holes on the engine side of the carb body (one under the slide)
are clear through to the pilot screw and to the float chamber

HTH
John

[ron.v]

Thanks for that John will strip carbs again after trying fuel in bore.

Ron

[ron.v]

John
The fuel in bore worked it ran for approx. 4-5 seconds
 I have stripped carbs again
Re the small holes at the manifold end .
 one of carbs when I put the end of a pole fishing float wire down the holes I can see the end of it in the mixture screw hole and it goes in about 6-7mm
But on the other carb the smaller of the two holes the one nearest the head seams blocked solid the wire will only go in about 4mm I think some one must have broken something of in there.
My ? is the shiny disc under these holes in the roof of the float chamber is it removable.
Or does it matter that only 1 of the two holes is clear.

thanks ron

[mark2]

sounds like the rear brake lights stuck on ,

[ron.v]

That was helpful will check
ron

[chaterlea25]

Hi

My ? is the shiny disc under these holes in the roof of the float chamber is it removable.
Or does it matter that only 1 of the two holes is clear.

The disc is not easily removable, destruction of it is involved !!!
I have prised one out on a reluctant carb and glued it back in with epoxy

Yes both carb holes need to be clear,
Get an aerosol tin of carb cleaner that will accept a long nozzle ant try and blow through the pilot passages
HTH
John

[ron.v]

Thanks for that John deff a piece of something stuck in there so looks like disc is coming out either that or new carb.
Have used a syringe with petrol in it to blast it and used a wire to try to unblock.
Other carb is clear on both holes.

Ron

[chaterlea25]

Hi Ron,
It might be worth trying the carb body in a ultrasonic cleaning bath??
On these the pilot jet is a brass bush thats pressed into the carb body down beyond the end of the pilot air screw, the hole in these is only 0.016in.
So brass and alloy react with each other,  A really good idea  (No not really)

John

[ron.v]

Hi John I have cracked it managed to get silver disc out and sure enough what looks like the end of a needle dropped out
Put it all back together and hey presto she runs.
Thanks very much for yours and everyone's help.

Ron

[chaterlea25]

Hi Ron
 
Glad you got it sorted

John