Another newbie

[Nidge]

Hi all, after years of modern bikes (still got an XJR1300), I have finally scratched the classic itch and bought a 1977 T140V. So far I haven't done much but replace the bars (for T120 export style), replaced the bent centre stand and fixed the tacho gearbox.

I'm interested to know if the colours (blue blending to black with white wing) are standard and correct for the year and if you have any helpful hints and tips for a first time bonnie owner

[L.A.B.]

I'm interested to know if the colours (blue blending to black with white wing) are standard and correct for the year and if you have any helpful hints and tips for a first time bonnie owner

No, the blending wouldn't be standard for 1977.
Also, the additional 'styling' side covers over the airbox, and the 'carrier' style grab rail (as well as a few other things) are not correct for a '77 model.

Brochures:
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/Brochures/Brochures.htm
Factory manual:
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/Repair/Repair.htm
Parts book:
http://www.bigdcycle.com/books.html

[Nidge]

Thanks, i guess the 37 years and 11 owners would make it unlikely to be as it left the factory... Great links!

[Nidge]

Excuse the initial barrage of questions but the bike is in fact registered Aug 1976 but has (matching) GP engine and frame numbers (also matched in V5) indicating a June 1977 build date- can that be right?

[L.A.B.]

Excuse the initial barrage of questions but the bike is in fact registered Aug 1976 but has (matching) GP engine and frame numbers (also matched in V5) indicating a June 1977 build date- can that be right?

This often catches owners out, as while 'G' does refer to the build month (June) the year prefix 'P' refers to model year, not calendar year.
As Triumph begun building their new year models during the preceding year, (1977 'year' models starting from serial GP 75000)  it is a 1977 model but was built in June 1976.

Some books state that the Triumph 'model year' started in August and ended in July of the following year, however this wasn't always the case.

[rogerwilko]

I had one and it was a very reliable bike. looks like you need a new seal behind the points plate on yours. Make sure you  clear the clutch plates before you engage a gear if left standing for awhile. And make sure there is freeplay on your rear master cylinder. If not the rear wheel gradually locks up after awhile.

[mark2]

i had one same year , a great bike , you will have fun , not so good two up

[rogerwilko]

I rode many thousands of miles with my girlfriend and had no trouble with handling or power? Maybe your rear shocks were knackered or too soft?

[mark2]

no it was all good but thought two up a bit small

[Nidge]

Thanks for the replies, yes Rogerwilcko you are right I need to attend to the camshaft oil seal and Mark2 I have acres of space on the XJR so the bonnie is purely a solo pursuit.... First impressions are great- I don't think a bike has put such a smile on my face since my AP50 when I was 16... The engine is punchy and relatively vibe free, starting is becoming a first or second kick affair (havent had to kickstart a bike since my old 350LC- needless to say my technique needed changing) and the handling is a real surprise- low weight and lower speeds make for a a wholly enjoyable experience.

List of job to do is (so far) quite small:

The afore mentioned oil seal
Replacement of clutch lever and or adjuster (it's doesnt seem to screw into the lever properly- maybe linked to job number 3 below)
Adjustment of clutch (would sir like drag or slip? Well neither actually...)
Oil and filter change (it has an external conversion)
Replace zip ties with proper cable clips on bars
New kickstart and stand rubbers
Fuel hoses starting to perish at tap end


And maybe the following styling changes (don't judge me ): pre OIF replica side panels, pancake filters and Lucas 679 rear light.

I shall be wandering around Kempton Park autojumble next weekend with a shopping list

[L.A.B.]

Replacement of clutch lever and or adjuster (it's doesnt seem to screw into the lever properly

The threaded part of the adjuster isn't meant to screw into the lever bracket.
Cable adjustment at the lever is done by turning the knurled ring. 

Maybe add a 7-plate clutch kit to the shopping list if you can't cure the slip/drag problem? I suggest you set the clutch pushrod end play to between a third and half a turn (cable fully slackened off), and not "one full turn" as it says in the '73 - '78 manual (the later manual says "one half turn").
Avoid adjusting the clutch using only the cable adjuster (you will hear a click when you operate the clutch if you overset it with the cable).

Slip and/or drag could also be caused by incorrect spring adjustment or the pressure plate lifting unevenly, so it would be something to check (see manual).